Double Barrel Flux

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DreamMachine

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100mph in a flux.... Yeah I said it and it will happen. How? Twin flux torque 2200kv motors on 6s each. I will be using a vorza center diff with a 46t spur and have found an optional 35t spur for the vorza cd. Pinions I plan to use are 25t but will have 30t and 34t also available. Now even tho I have a set of CEN diffs that are modified to fit onto the hellfire diff housing, I will not be using them. I dont want to break them with the torque ill be making. Those are only run in my nitro speed truck. The shock towers may or may not be cut down to lower the body height. I also may or may not use flux XS shocks like the nitro. The idea is to keep my drive train completely level and straight and lower the overall center of gravity. X0-1 wheels are a must for obvious reasons. Pretty much thats about it other than electronics like radio and servo which are the flysky FS-GT3B and Hobbico CS-170 servo

This is how it started

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Yes these TVPs are hand cut and hand made

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Now I know I still have much more fab work ahead but this gives the idea on what I'm doing. One might ask why on earth would I want to make a savage fast. Well because no one has really tried. The fastest nitro savages are in the 60s and I'm in the 70s still climbing. The fastest flux is 79mph that I know of. Again why not make a school bus into a Ferrari :D
 
One day at time, I brought home some stainless tubing to make different size spacers so I can properly fit the motors. I'm hoping by the end of the weekend to have all the fab work done minus the battery boxes. Still workin on some ideas. I might try to stuff two upfront between the plates and just move the rx box and mount the servo on the side of the TVP. Then I could just mount the remaining two batteries like they would be stock on the sides. Idk I just need to sit down and stare at the truck for awhile until something clicks.
 
I was going to say maybe you should put the motors up front, but I have no idea if it's do-able.
 
I could do it but that would mean making a new set of plates. Time will tell if this set makes the cut
 
I didn't think about the lipos, they'll be heavy enough to put up front.
 
Fab work is done. Just need to relocate the servo under the FLM plate and mount the reciever somewhere else. Two batteries will go upfront on the FLM plate and the other two will go outside the TVPs so the width is stock and most of the weight is upfront. All in all I'm pleased and the truck looks sick .

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Haha you and me both
 
What are anyone's thoughts on a gear combo of 25/35t or 30/30?
 
Holy Sh*tballs Batman! I'm suddenly feeling happy in my pants...

Youve got enough torque there that I would just start out at 1:1 ratio but I have no idea how its gonna handle so I would dumb down the Dualrate on the throttle untill until you get a feel for how stable it is at higher speeds and work your way up into it. Id also set some punch control cuz you have enough torque there to drag my fat ass behind that thing....against my will! lol
 
Haha that's funny. What would be some good punch settings to start off with? It's set at 0 right now. I'm going to test it first on 25/46 gearing with the center diff filled with 500,000wt oil. If its to crazy ill fill with diff lock lube. From the very beginning and is still in the back if my mind, I'm very worried if its over geared ill melt the whole damn truck. That would be bad!
 
You'll have to experiment with temps to determine if it's overgeared.
 
I guess that's true, 190f is max temp according to hpi so ill try to make judgements based off that number.
 
starting out with the higher gear ratio is the safer bet might as well. Id start out with about middle of the road with punch settings and just adjust it from there. Id also run everything but the motors off of a BEC....you dont want any extra strain on those ESCs IMO. Id consider trying to fit a fan on those motors too. while doing speed runs when your motors get to hot and you stop running it the temps will actually keep raising when it stops before it starts cooling off unless you have airflow on em. Then again you could just run it around at a slower pace to help cool it off until it gets cool enough to let it sit. fit fans on those motors may prove really difficult though cuz of the way they are shaped.
 
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How would I hook a BEC up to run only the rx and servo?

---------- Post added at 5:57 PM ---------- Previous post was at 5:56 PM ----------

I made a glitch buster with the small capacitor and ordered the one on the right. I did not realize that the cap was that big. I could hook two up to the rx would that work?

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I have a drawing of it somewhere. Basicly you run the BEC straight off the battery. You have a Y-lead that takes only the signal wire (center wire) from the receiver and the power wires come from the BEC (outside two). If it's a Castle you can program it is about what ever voltage you want to.

49c2df22.jpg


With this method here your receiver is powered by a ESC and the srvo is directly powered by the BEC.
 
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190° is seriously pushing the envelope on a brushless motor. I'd shoot for a max of 170°, and go by whatever Castle says, not HPI.
 

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