Does My Engine Need Sealed ?

[Bangor Lad]

I have an HPI Savage 4.6 Big Block which I have been having trouble with so I had her at the carpark this morning to give her a fresh tune. After getting the tune to perfection ( for once ! ) I ran out of fuel, my glow ignitor then ran flat and blah blah blah ( normal sh1t ) ANYWAY.... I had been cranking the engine over for a bit before I realised that the ignitor had ran flat and I had flooded the engine. I cranked on and rather than her locking up, the fuel spat out in between the cooling head and the engine ! I assume that this was not correct ? lol So..... Is it a case of resealing and if so, whats the best stuff to use ?

 

[Macguyver]

you dont seal between the cooling head and crankcase ...it has a shim/metal gasket .....you probably just need to tighten the head screws

but if the rest of your engine is not sealed yet , you should take the time to do it

 

[Racer 1966]

No,fuel should not come out there. Like stated,your bolts probably need tightened but I would completely remove the head,clean and then install and tighten the bolts securely.

 

[Bangor Lad]

Thats great help and advice. Thank you. I will have a look now as I am going to spend the afternoon servicing it. Could I ask a few questions ?

Where in the engine needs sealed, what does it do by sealing it and what sealer do you use ?
My shocks are just bottoming out and every time I turn a corner, the truck over turns. I have the big bore ones that came standard on my X..... Do I just need to top up the oil in them or empty and refill it ?
What oil do I use in the shocks or is there more to it that just renewing the oil ?
My tyres got bit by a little bostard of a mutt dog today in the park and they seem to wobble about alot at the rear when I am driving now although there is only pin holes in them. Should I just reseal them to the wheels and fill the holes ?
My rear wheel bearings are very sloopy. Can they be replaced seperatly ?

Sorry guys but I thought that I might as well take the opertunity of stealing your expertise while I have your attention lol

 

[Macguyver]

here are a couple links on how to seal your engine and other stuff you should know

https://www.rcnitrotalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=87194

https://www.rcnitrotalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=60832

maybe you need stiffer springs .....holes in the tire is ok ..as long as its not a rip ..i made holes in mine to let water out when i drive it ....and as for the bearings ...get a kit for your truck ..that way you will have spare ones when you need them

 

[Bangor Lad]

Thats great. I'm out in my workshop ( shed lol ) so I will check them out when I go into the house. This is a video of my shocks AFTER topping up the oil. I dont think they are right ?
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ktCi69_-LMQ"]Savage Socks - YouTube[/ame]

 

[Macguyver]

I'm not quite sure how they should be ..but it doesn't look like they have much dampening effect ...are they new or old ?? maybe you need to rebuild them

 

[Bangor Lad]

They are the ones that came on the Savage brand new 3 months ago but they have been well used in them 3 months lol

 

[Racer 1966]

The oil in the shock is there to dampen(slow the rate of compression/extension) the shock from bumps/jumps/cornering. The amount or rate of dampening(how quickly oil transfers to the opposite side of the piston) is determined by the number and size of holes in the piston and weight of oil inside the shock . Without the spring,it is not supposed to rebound and extend the shaft unless you have trapped air in it. The oil does not compress so there is no pressure to force the piston back down. SO if you're full of oil,congrats you've done it right and don't have any air in your shock. If you think the shocks are too soft,try a thicker oil or stiffer spring.

 

[olds97_lss]

Thicker oil is usually what really stiffens up a rig, then it requires stiffer springs to get proper rebound height. Stiffer springs gives you momentary stiffness but without proper oil weight, it will bounce when it lands on jumps vs cush and absorb the landing like it's supposed to.

As for engines, I take apart, clean out and seal new engines out of the box before running them the first time. I clean because the mfr'ing process leaves a lot of aluminum dust in there that just gums up glow plugs and scratches cylinder walls. I seal just to avoid the need later.

https://www.rcnitrotalk.com/forum/showpost.php?p=726317&postcount=6

 

[Bangor Lad]

So RTV is best for the sealing ? I have some of that in work for sealing sumps ect. Really great and helpfull link. Thank You
I topped up my oil in the shocks yesterday and cleaned them out. One of them was full of bubbles so I assume that means that the seals are gone ? Ill buy thicker oil and a seal set or what way do the seals come and any ideas of what thickness of oil to use ?

 

[olds97_lss]

Sensor Safe RTV is what you want. Non-sensor safe will corrode the internals of your engine as the gasses in it as it cures are acidic.

Depending on your shocks, air in the oil may be ok... I think they are know as emulsion type shocks. But, if you have little dome bladders in the caps, then more than likely you have leaky shocks.