Differential reassembly questions

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ThatGuy

Gone - bye bye.
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I am in the process of cleaning the differentials on my Ofna Ravager and had some questions.

Is the paper gasket really that critical? Can I just use grease or some kind of gasket in a tube from an auto parts store? I found replacements, if they are absolutely needed. http://www.nitrohouse.com/Differential-Gasket-95-3_p_7796.html

In the diffs, there was some kind of black grease in there which I am replacing with silicone oil. I have the gears cleaned up very well, but how clean does the actual diff housing need to be? Can there still be trace amounts of grease left, or does it need to be spotless?
 
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Use the gasket. The tube sealants can squish out and mix with the diff fluid making a mess that I'm sure is tougher to clean out than the grease that's in there. As for the black grease, clean it up best you can, put the fluid in there and run it. Next time you change the fluid it'll be blackened and carry most of that stock grease out with it. No biggie.
 
If, the gasket in a tube is all you have you can use it, I'm in the process of testing it out on my Hot Racing differential cases w/ring gear for my mERV. They didn't come with gaskets, and there was no place to use the larger standard o-rings. I let mine cure before re-assembly, so I would avoid squishing any excess into the gears. I also used a tooth pick to apply it.
 
I went ahead and ordered the gaskets from Nitrohouse since I have plenty of time before the weather gets better for me to be outside running my nitro's. Come spring time if I decide to change to a different oil weight I may just go and use the tubed gasket stuff.
 
I've learned over the years that similar scale vehicles share common parts. So these would work if you could not get those if you had to have them right away. I know this wasn't your specific question but just an fyi.

At this point I can't pick out the subtle differences between 1/8 buggies. If you put 5 different ones side by side without the bodies on I would not be able to tell the difference. It amazes me that people on here can do that and know what parts will interchange, or they can tell you what motor and pipe combos work the best. I'm definitely not there yet but I am reading whatever info I can find.
 
Come spring time if I decide to change to a different oil weight I may just go and use the tubed gasket stuff.


It’s usually best to use the stock thickness diff gasket; besides being a gasket it is also a shim. Too thin and the spiders can bind, and you may need more shims on the outdrives to set the mesh. Too thick and the spiders may be too loose, and the mesh be too tight. It’s also more difficult to get the ring gear to sit square on the cup with sealant compared to a gasket.

Not to say you can’t or shouldn’t use other thickness of gaskets or multiple stacked gaskets, I do it all the time. It just depends on what the diff needs.
 
It’s usually best to use the stock thickness diff gasket; besides being a gasket it is also a shim. Too thin and the spiders can bind, and you may need more shims on the outdrives to set the mesh. Too thick and the spiders may be too loose, and the mesh be too tight. It’s also more difficult to get the ring gear to sit square on the cup with sealant compared to a gasket.

Never thought of those as shims. Didn't even think about diff mesh with the internal gears of the diffs either. I love this site, learn something new every day
 
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