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Difference in batteries?

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AC48

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Hi,

As some of you know I just purchased a Duratrax Micro Street Force RTR. The run time on it is decent, but it would be nice to have it last longer. I more of a Nitro guy so I don't know too much about batteries.

Basically my question is this, will this http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFND7 be a big difference from the stock battery ( http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000542896&I=LXFNT2&P=K )????

Now, I know that NiMH batteries are better than NiCd battery packs, although I'm not sure why. I also know that 1100 mah means it will last longer than the 600 mah one, right?? Anyways, I'm just trying to find out how much better that battery is than the stock. Is it worth it? :shrug:
 
Last edited:
the mah is the storage capacity in milliamp hours. The higher the rating, the longer the run time.

NiMHs are better than NiCads because they not only hold a larger charge, but also because they aren't as tempermental. NiCads have to be properly discharged (but not over-discharged) NiMHs you just have to be carefull not to overcharge them.
 
If you're looking for more runtime, then yes it's definately worth it. $25 for a pack is a decent price. If you want a great pack, pick up some loose cells and assemble the pack yourself. You'll save a few bucks and have much bettery batteries. Go here and pick up 6 of the GP1100 cells for $2 a piece. http://www.blindbatts.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=27&products_id=164

Or even if you didn't want to make it yourself, drop them an email and tell them what you want. I bet a 6 cell GP1100 pack made just for your MSF would cost right around $20.
 
Thanks guys, great info.

The stock battery Duratrax says to charge for 3 hours with the included charger. How ling with the NiMH battery need to be charged??

How much better would the home made pack be than the Duratrax?? What will I need to build it my self?? Cause at 2$ a peice I could have a great pack for 12$, that would be nice.
 
The gp 1100s would be awsome. Much better than the stock pack. First you need the cells, then sodder,battery bars, and something to hold the cells together while you sodder them together. Definently go with the homemade pack(go 1100).
 
I have access to sodder, but where can I get battery bars? Couldn't you just tape them together while you sodder them lol? Those cells are the same size right, cause the stock pack is a pretty tight fit as it is??

I just remmembered that my car came with an extra connector for the batteri to cannect to the ESC that I can sodder on, so I've got that covered. Looks like all I'll need to buy is the cells and battery bars. Just need to find those, they can't be that expensive can they?
 
AC48, If I were you I'd ask Blindbatts to make you a pack for your MSF. Give them a link to the batteries on tower so they can see the configuration and they'll hook you up. If you don't want to do that, you should be able to get battery bars at your LHS, or if you order the cells seperately from Blind they'll probably sell you some bars also.

What solder do you have? Not just any solder will do. My personal favorite is the Deans solder. It makes a really strong bond and works great....I highly reccomend it.
 
I dunno, just plain old solder I guess. Its the stuff that we use in my Electronics class.

Well, I am borrowing my friends charger, he never uses it, that can charge my batteries in like 30-45 minutes. So for now I think I'll just stick with the packs I have now. Actuallly, will the NiMH pack give anymore power, or just longer run time?
 
You can get 1100mAh batteries with soldering tabs at www.batteryspace.com and build your own packs really cheap. I jut got 12 cells (2/3 AA size) for $24, shipped. All you would need to get are connectors and shrink wrap.
 
Hey that is a good deal! Normally those packs would cost you about $28 a piece in a hobby store. They're probably some decent sport packs. They're not for micros though, they're more of a 1/10 size being sub-c's.
 
AC48 said:
Well, I am borrowing my friends charger, he never uses it, that can charge my batteries in like 30-45 minutes. So for now I think I'll just stick with the packs I have now. Actuallly, will the NiMH pack give anymore power, or just longer run time?
Make sure you can chage your battery at no high that 1.5 volts.. I charge mine at 1 if it is higher that 1.5 you wil hurt you cells. If you plan on kepping this car you can pick of a chager with adjustable chage rates. for about 50$
 
For a few dollars more, you might want to look into LiPo batteries.
Lithium Ion Polymer, I believe. A couple of guys run these in their MiniTs and are getting 45 minutes run time. Needs a special charger.
 
Russ Winn said:
RCDad-
Yes, I have had very good luck with thier batteries. I've purchased 24 cells from them and built reciever packs and micro packs. If you get the ones WITH tabs, you won't need any battery bars to assemble them.

These are the cells I use.....

http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=272
Are those cells small enough to fit in my MSF? Look at the link I posted in the first post to find out the size of the stock cells. 16$ for 12 cells sounds awsome, thats two packs.

Now, it has an option. With or without pre-wired tabs. What are these? Are they like battery bars?
 
I wonder how these would hold up as power packs for electric cars though?
 
What is the run time of a 1100 mah (stock battery pack) running the RC18T
 
RCDad-
The 2/3A cells are the same size as the ones in every high dollar pre-assembled pack. 1100mAh is standard for most of those batteries. I've had good luck using those, and I'm sure they would do well for the average racer. I couldn't give you an honest opinion if they're any better than some $35 "factory" pack, but batteries are manufactured the same. Most of the "matched packs" are built from the same batch number, and are tested for the same voltage within some tolerance. The cells I'm referring you to are just sent in a box, and you get whatever they send....Still a good deal, and even better if you just bash.
The tabs on the cells make it easier to solder the cells together. I remove the tab on the positive end of the cells, and solder the tabs attached to the negative end to the next battery's positive end (less heat needed). Be sure to use flux, and 60/40 rosin solder.
 
Rolex said:
For a few dollars more, you might want to look into LiPo batteries.
Lithium Ion Polymer, I believe. A couple of guys run these in their MiniTs and are getting 45 minutes run time. Needs a special charger.

45 minutes with a brushed or brushless motor?
 
I have a mini giant with a venom fierbll 370 motor. I bought Nihm aa's for it. The differenc in run time AND power is incredible

I am getting 30 minutes of good punchy run time, and anouth 15-20 of decent run time.

It's honestly hard for me toe belive how long these nihms last and how long they hold their punch. MIne are regular size recharable 2300 Mah Venom-racing batteries..

I wouldn't run without Nihms ever.. it put the fun back into electrics for me.
 
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