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Gregw1

RCTalk Basher
Messages
54
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9
Location
St. Thomas Ontario canada
RC Driving Style
  1. Bashing
Hey guys I bought a used T Max 3.3 and it seems like no matter what I do weather there's plenty of smoke or not much I still get this PING NOISE when I'm off throttle and it stalls. Anyone have an idea?
 
^^^ +1
I agree, setting the needles pretty much flush with the housing should get you in the ballpark and then adjust only about a hour at a time as if you were looking at a clock.
 
Hey guys I bought a used T Max 3.3 and it seems like no matter what I do weather there's plenty of smoke or not much I still get this PING NOISE when I'm off throttle and it stalls. Anyone have an idea?

If you bought that used ,then no telling how it was stored or if the carb has been sitting ,chances are ,carb is gunked up ,or
the needle o-rings are harden ,dried up an cracked ,or even a tank lid seal could be bad an not enough tank pressure!...?
 
My bad, I didn't the "used" and I agree..

LOL....That is why I dont like to give advise on nitro tuning ,you dont know the history or how the folks are treating them!

On my engines the first thing that I do ,is actually run the needles in an count each turn where they were at an write it down
on paper ,there is a factory set ,but there is a tune set ,then that way ,I have a reference to where I had it when it ran good on
the tuned setting!

An air leak or fuel leak will throw any tune out the door ,even a bad pressure issue from the tank!... :cool:
 
That's a fact and usually a very tiny hard to see pin hole.
 
I just had a dried out/shrunken HSN o-ring give me fits the other day. Guess that's what happens when you fire up a nitro once every other year. lol! Stupid thing was screwing itself in/out as it ran. Would be pig rich one minute, then screaming mimi lean the next.

Any time I get a used engine, if it has compression, I take it completely apart, clean it, inspect it, looking for wear in the con-rod, bearings and cracks in the crank case, seal the typical spots with RTV (not really necessary if the o-rings are good), set the carb to factory, replace o-rings/gaskets if I have them and start from there. Then at least I know all the screws are tight and there aren't any apparent mechanical issues inside.

Regardless though, any time I get a used truck with a used engine on it, I consider the engine garbage and treat it as such until proven otherwise. I typically replace them with a new engine anyway, or at least one I broke-in and have on hand.
 
I suspect you don't have a fuel filter and crap got stuck in the carb. T-maxx's never came with a fuel filter. This causes a lean run and can damage the motor causing this problem.
 
hello I have the same problem .,No time to work out right now , It is most likely what others have posted .My list is is like this
1 check factory needle settings 2 Make sure fuel getting to motor . Tank lids like to leak ,,new o ring . 3 Change to to a new plug .,even one the lights can b bad .Also the right plug , hard to tell whats in used engine ,4 check for air leaks every where carb mount ..new line ,
engine back plate , seal it with good gasket maker and carb o rings of fit .5 Remember pinch test for low needle setting .Engine should speed up in two or 3 seconds . 6 con rod stretched ..6 bad piston ,liner . 6 bad fuel ,,old or what ever .

I know its a lot to check . start with the easy things and go down the list ..
Good luck .these little engine can be very aggravating , more often then we like to admit .
But once there on ....oh the smell of nitro in the morning !
 
The carb is always the place to start.
 
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