Creality Ender 3 V3 SE headaches.

[biggman100]

Also, does it seem like the nozzle digs into the print and rips it from the build plate? Or does it just stop the print entirely? If it stops it entirely, try reformatting your sd card to FAT32, and make sure it isn't bigger than 16GB

It pulls the print off the bed and wraps it around the nozzle, every time. The nozzle doesn't hit the bed, or anything else though.

 

[Lukedavis]

It pulls the print off the bed and wraps it around the nozzle, every time. The nozzle doesn't hit the bed, or anything else though.

What slicer are you using?

 

[biggman100]

You don't set it to what the printer says after auto leveling from what I found. You add -.xx to the value that is cutrently showed in your z offset. If you can't get that to work, loosen your hotend and let it drop a tad. That would work, but too much and your dragging the bed.

I have done that multiple times as well. It's all part of the paper method. After auto leveling, you lower the Z-Axis to 0, then, 0.01MM at a time, lower the nozzle until you just feel resistance between the nozzle and the paper. Those are the official Creality guidelines. I just don't get why almost every one that has replied, no matter what way I post about it, they say once it's auto leveled, they have no issue printing, and, yet, I do.

Make sure there isn't a tiny blob of filament stuck to the outside of your hotend. Get a piece of grey or white scotchbrite and twist it around the outside of the nozzle. Run your clearing wire into the nozzle. Do a cold pull of your filament to pull out the filament from your nozzle. If done correctly you will see a mold of the inside of the nozzle. That will pull any contaminants from your nozzle.

I've done that multiple times already. Anymore, when I'm not trying to use it, I remove the filament, run the cleaning rod through the extruder, and use a very soft bristled brush to clean the nozzle after it cools down. When I turn it on, I cut the filament, every time, at 45 degrees, feed it into the extruder, preheat the PLA, and then preheat the nozzle and bed. I have even taken the extruder apart to make sure it was clean several times.

 

[Lukedavis]

I have done that multiple times as well. It's all part of the paper method. After auto leveling, you lower the Z-Axis to 0, then, 0.01MM at a time, lower the nozzle until you just feel resistance between the nozzle and the paper. Those are the official Creality guidelines. I just don't get why almost every one that has replied, no matter what way I post about it, they say once it's auto leveled, they have no issue printing, and, yet, I do.

I've done that multiple times already. Anymore, when I'm not trying to use it, I remove the filament, run the cleaning rod through the extruder, and use a very soft bristled brush to clean the nozzle after it cools down. When I turn it on, I cut the filament, every time, at 45 degrees, feed it into the extruder, preheat the PLA, and then preheat the nozzle and bed. I have even taken the extruder apart to make sure it was clean several times.

Are you using cura slicer? Or something else. Pretty sure its a slicer issue, and If you tell me what slicer you are using, I might know the cause.

 

[biggman100]

What slicer are you using?

Creality Print. But, all I do is download .STL's of what I want to print, put it in Creality Print, slice it, and then export the G-Code. I don't play with settings or anything unless I'm specifically told to, because I have no clue what most of it actually means.

 

[Lukedavis]

Creality Print. But, all I do is download .STL's of what I want to print, put it in Creality Print, slice it, and then export the G-Code. I don't play with settings or anything unless I'm specifically told to, because I have no clue what most of it actually means.

Then its most likely your slicer being funky. If you can, take a screenshot Of your travel settings in your slicer, and post it here. To get there, go to prepare, then click settings override, and click the travel settings. Screen shot all of it, and I can try and figure it out. I feel like when your printer head goes up to start a new layer, it doesn't actually go up enough. Therefore, it catches on the layers and rips them off. Your printer should have the combing setting turned on, or z-hop, whichever you prefer, (Z-hop increases print time), and this allows your print head to clear the already printed areas, effectively solving your issue.

 

[Lukedavis]

Then its most likely your slicer being funky. If you can, take a screenshot Of your travel settings in your slicer, and post it here. To get there, go to prepare, then click settings override, and click the travel settings. Screen shot all of it, and I can try and figure it out. I feel like when your printer head goes up to start a new layer, it doesn't actually go up enough. Therefore, it catches on the layers and rips them off. Your printer should have the combing setting turned on, or z-hop, whichever you prefer, (Z-hop increases print time), and this allows your print head to clear the already printed areas, effectively solving your issue.

Shoot, I messed up. Combing has nothing to do with it. Its your z hop that needs to be adjusted.

 

[biggman100]

Then its most likely your slicer being funky. If you can, take a screenshot Of your travel settings in your slicer, and post it here. To get there, go to prepare, then click settings override, and click the travel settings. Screen shot all of it, and I can try and figure it out. I feel like when your printer head goes up to start a new layer, it doesn't actually go up enough. Therefore, it catches on the layers and rips them off. Your printer should have the combing setting turned on, or z-hop, whichever you prefer, (Z-hop increases print time), and this allows your print head to clear the already printed areas, effectively solving your issue.

I can't take a screenshot, because it's on my desktop, but, after digging, I found this for Z-Hop (the only place I found it was under filament settings):

When retracting-0.2MM
Z Hop type-Slope
Only lift z above-0.0MM
Only lift Z below-0.0MM

Just an FYI, I'm using Creality Print 6. So far, that's all I have found for Z-Hop.

And now the person who designed what I'm trying to print gets back to me, after almost a week. He said that you have to use glue on the bed, or it won't stick completely. Would have been nice if he added that in the description when I downloaded the files.

 

[Lukedavis]

I can't take a screenshot, because it's on my desktop, but, after digging, I found this for Z-Hop (the only place I found it was under filament settings):

When retracting-0.2MM
Z Hop type-Slope
Only lift z above-0.0MM
Only lift Z below-0.0MM

Just an FYI, I'm using Creality Print 6. So far, that's all I have found for Z-Hop.

And now the person who designed what I'm trying to print gets back to me, after almost a week. He said that you have to use glue on the bed, or it won't stick completely. Would have been nice if he added that in the description when I downloaded the files.

try raising your "When retracting" one to .5 or 1mm. Also take a look at the different settings on the z hop style and tell me which ones are there

 

[biggman100]

I am now beyond convinced the issue lies entirely with the files for the trailer. This all came about because of a winter project I'm doing. It's supposed to be a 1/10 tow behind trailer, with a battery operated salt spreader in it. I got the trailer and salt spreader files separately on Thingiverse. However, trying to print the suspension and axle mount for the trailer, the print fails, every time. Someone else mentioned why not try to print some of the parts for the salt spreader, so, I did, and, so far, without changing a single setting, I was able to successfully print the gears for it in white and blue, and, the gear mount is currently at 30% with no issues.

Both sets of gears (the white were a test using the white that came with the printer):

And, the gear mount that is still printing:

 

[WickedFog]

I am now beyond convinced the issue lies entirely with the files for the trailer. This all came about because of a winter project I'm doing. It's supposed to be a 1/10 tow behind trailer, with a battery operated salt spreader in it. I got the trailer and salt spreader files separately on Thingiverse. However, trying to print the suspension and axle mount for the trailer, the print fails, every time. Someone else mentioned why not try to print some of the parts for the salt spreader, so, I did, and, so far, without changing a single setting, I was able to successfully print the gears for it in white and blue, and, the gear mount is currently at 30% with no issues.

Both sets of gears (the white were a test using the white that came with the printer):

View attachment 260101

And, the gear mount that is still printing:

View attachment 260102

Those files were already sliced right? You're just running the supplied gcode?

But back to you insisting it is the file... explain that to me.

If you have a flat face sitting flat on the bed in the slicer, there is nothing in that file telling the slicer to pull the filament off the bed. It is a setting in your slicer cancelling your Z offset adjustment, or you are not storing your adjustment properly. The best way to change firmware settings in your machine is to give it a command line telling it to set the value, then a command to store the setting change. Thatvcould all be added to the starting script of your gcode. That's all explained in the Marlin firmware documentation, which I am betting you didn't bother looking at.

And no, you do not use the probe to level your bed, then do the paper method. In fact, that paper method is ONLY TO GET YOUR BED CLOSE. So if you are probing the bed with an accurate probe, you're only ruining that by going back to a much more inferior method of using paper. You either use the probe, or you manually level your bed then adjust manually after doing some first layer tests. If Creality, a YT influencer, or some idiot on Thingiverse is telling you to do orherwise, you're talking to an idiot.

I spent about 6 months in the Creality FB group dealing with self proclaimed engineers because they thought buying a 3d printer somehow made them smarter. Put tennis balls on the feet of your printer they said. Use hairspray or glue they said. Morons. It's the same on YT. A guy showing people how to setup a printer when you could clearly see his gantry was completely out of square and half his rollers weren't even spinning when the Z axis moved. And people were singing him praises in the comments for showing them how to F up their printers just as bad. People locking down the upper bushing of the Z axis lead screw because it wobbles around at the top, and convincing the Lemmings to follow him and do the same. Entire Creality communities full of idiots teaching other idiots how to be dumber.

There are maybe 10 people out of 1000 in the 3d printing world you should listen to. And I just so happen to be one of the guys those people learned from. If you don't believe me, I can give you names of people I have helped setup 3d printers over the phone. Printers I have never even seen, let alone worked on.

This is just like every thread you start here. You ask questions, then argue every answer you're given. "I've done that multiple times". There are only two responses to that response that are true. No you haven't, or you've done it wrong multiple times. I don't know why you bother asking questions here when you never listen to the people giving you the correct answer. I have been patient and told you what to do, and what to look for. I have faced every problem there is from Creality printers from plugged nozzles to motherboard, mosfet, stepper, and other hardware failures. And my machines are still printing. Not to mention the 25 years I spent programming CNC machines from every make and model. Haas, Mazak, Mori Seiki, Okuma, Integrex, numerous machines with nearly all versions of Fanuc controls from the 70's to present, and more. I have completely rewritten Mastercam post files for specific CNC machines, which is something the folks at Mastercam are supposed to do for customers. I know CNC machines and these simple Creality printers inside and out. You don't want to listen, so at this point... enjoy the rest of your learning experience.

 

[WickedFog]

Just 30 seconds ago, providing assistance to a guy running a printer just like yours. Another printer model I have never laid a finger on.

 

[biggman100]

Those files were already sliced right? You're just running the supplied gcode?

But back to you insisting it is the file... explain that to me.

Again, no, they were not already sliced. I downloaded them as .STL files, then used Creality Print to convert them to G-Code. As for how it is an issue in the file, then explain to me why that one file, after being converted to G-Code, will NOT print, but, I have not only done a smaller print from another group I downloaded and converted, I finished the first more than 2 hour print (then found out that part wasn't needed), and am now on the second, and, with those files, not a single issue or problem. The problem entirely is with the file that started this, since, to print the last one, and the one it's printing now, I redid the self leveling, and, again, without changing a single setting, let it print the gears, the gear drives (which took 2 hours 8 minutes, and completed successfully), and, it is now in the middle of other parts for the salt spreader, and, so far, not a single issue. That's why I say the issue lies entirely with the original file I was trying to print that started this. Or, to put it an even simpler way, the salt spreader parts print without a single issue, but not a single one of the trailer parts will print without screwing up, and, before you even ask, the parts for the salt spreader, and the parts for the trailer were 2 separate downloads from 2 different designers.

 

[Lukedavis]

Again, no, they were not already sliced. I downloaded them as .STL files, then used Creality Print to convert them to G-Code. As for how it is an issue in the file, then explain to me why that one file, after being converted to G-Code, will NOT print, but, I have not only done a smaller print from another group I downloaded and converted, I finished the first more than 2 hour print (then found out that part wasn't needed), and am now on the second, and, with those files, not a single issue or problem. The problem entirely is with the file that started this, since, to print the last one, and the one it's printing now, I redid the self leveling, and, again, without changing a single setting, let it print the gears, the gear drives (which took 2 hours 8 minutes, and completed successfully), and, it is now in the middle of other parts for the salt spreader, and, so far, not a single issue. That's why I say the issue lies entirely with the original file I was trying to print that started this. Or, to put it an even simpler way, the salt spreader parts print without a single issue, but not a single one of the trailer parts will print without screwing up, and, before you even ask, the parts for the salt spreader, and the parts for the trailer were 2 separate downloads from 2 different designers.

Try printing a 3d benchy.

 

[biggman100]

Try printing a 3d benchy.

Did you not see my earlier pic? I printed 5 regular ones, and one battle one for a guy for Christmas ornaments with no issues. The only thing I can not get it to print, are the parts for the trailer.

 

[Lukedavis]

Did you not see my earlier pic? I printed 5 regular ones, and one battle one for a guy for Christmas ornaments with no issues. The only thing I can not get it to print, are the parts for the trailer.

Send me the trailer files, and when I get home I'll try and print them.

 

[biggman100]

@WickedFog As for your, I doubt you have tried everything, no, I haven't tried any of your, modify the code suggestions, because one, I'm not comfortable doing that, and two, if the only thing that won't print are parts for the trailer, then obviously it's not an issue with the printer settings. However, being that I have all the time in the world (the only time I leave my house is 3 days every 3 weeks for chemo), I have all the time in the world, and, yes, I have tried every suggestion, within reason, that I have either seen or read about from multiple sources, and, again, the trailer files will not print.

 

[biggman100]

Send me the trailer files, and when I get home I'll try and print them.

Actually, I am giving up on that trailer. I found another one that will work just as well, so, once these parts finish, I'm gonna see what that one does. I can still send them if you would like, but I would need you to send me a message where to email them to.

 

[biggman100]

Send me the trailer files, and when I get home I'll try and print them.

Actually, I have a better idea. Here is the link where I downloaded the trailer files from:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4857561/files

 

[WickedFog]

I would tell you to flip your bed over and print directly on the glass. But you'd tell me you've tried that a bunch of times, then proceed to tell me why doing that doesn't work for you because you have a dog barking outside or something. But everybody I know that uses an Ender has thanked me for telling them to flip that stupid textured bed and print on glass. But none of them used those stupid bed leveling devices either.