It's ok for it to cool down a bit at idle, that's normal. What you don't want is the LSN to be too rich and that at idle your engine is loading up with fuel.
You can't counter one needle with the other like that. Once you open up the throttle the LSN really has no affect on what is going on, it's all the HSN until you go back off the throttle.
John. When you lean out the lsn it's going to affect the high speed temperature. I dealt with this one-on-one.
You have to counteract that which has change as far as cleaning the low speed needle. Leaning the l s n well affect the high speed as far as performance and temperature some.
So if your engine overheats after you're done adjusting the low speed needle. Then it's all in the high-speed as far as readjusting it.
My camera my police camera. Couldn't get the footage of me tuning the low end. It cut off. I only got the high-speed portion.
It turn out to be a bad micro SD card that I bought from China. Pretty much corrupted files after 30 minutes of recording.
The rapid cooling thing yes that's why I was asking about. Because I've wanted to know and more clearer answer.
Now going back to my other subject. That I made a long sentence about.
If you look at the nitrogen tuning Bible which I sort of looked over. It even talks about that if you adjust the idle screw you may have to counteract the high speed.
On the Kyosho video that I looked up I found that the guy said at the end of the part where he tuned a low-speed needle. He said clearly that you have to rich in the high-speed if it becomes too lean from the temperature and performance gains of the low end.
Remember when the engine is at idle the high speed still runs a little bit but on on much more slower Pace, than if you were to open the carburetor.
I wish I could have gotten the footage of that low speed needle trial. Cuz I'm telling you it was a pain in the butt to tune it. Because when you start the tune it you will get confused.
But I wasn't really confused. At that day I was actually very vigilant it was ready for everything I picked up.
You know the pinch test is not that accurate. It's only good to see if the engine speeds up slightly and died within a few seconds. It's just a good piece of mind to use after you're done completely with tuning the needle.
so so I'm goosing the throttle until the tank gets about a quarter empty. then I pinch the fuel line if it shuts off and speed up and die within two seconds that's good. If the engine if I fill the tank and do speed up runs to warm it up and pinch the line if the engine ends up shutting off within 3 seconds of a full tank gas.
then that tells me between full and almost empty, that the low speed needle is not going to give me weird half lean kind of problems.
I see people do videos on these tanks when they're very very very very half empty and they assumed because it shuts off within two seconds that it's lean.
This is one of the most common mistake where other people find themselves having to low speed needle. So in this scenario to Rich on high speed, way to lean on low speed.
I don't know why there's a lot of people that don't really explain how tuning works very well. because the way I experience it it's a hell of a lot.
I mean don't get me wrong. I'm still learning but what I learning and how I'm learning, it's a lot different then what others have experienced that's all.