• Welcome to RCTalk! 🚀

    Join the #1 RC community where hobbyists connect, share, and get expert advice on RC cars, trucks, boats, drones, and more!

    • Friendly & passionate RC enthusiasts
    • RC tips & troubleshooting
    • Buy, sell & trade RC gear
    • Share builds & upgrades

Clutch/Tires questions?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
have you tried em?
I'm using a fantom .27 now and it spools up real quick w/ a 62/12 gearing.....I can't find a steel OFNA 65t ring spur gear so I can go up on my CB....I figured the gearing ratios and I know what range I need to be in to not fry my clutches......I can't go up on th eCB until I raise my spur a little.....and Corrado have you tried the OFNA 4 shoe w/ some UE alluminum shoes....they seemed to cure alot of my shoe killing when I changed to that set up.....
 
I myslef havn't run on...I've seen the 8 port in a LSP and it had stupid power. The guy had a hard time to drive it, he would have needed to put some much thicker diff oils in it for it to even have a chance. It only had 5-6 min run times as well.
 
i run the 3 port, but if your on a large track get the 8 port. mileage can be gained using the right clutch, something that engages early and grabs hard, and using the right pipe, an 053 short header. the 3 port runs out of breath quickly but has plenty of rpm for our track 120x80.
 
Plaidfish, I am running the 65t plastic spur,(12t clutch) so far so good. I can't see it holding up for a season,BUT they are cheap to replace. I just bored the ID to fit over my Ofna diff, the 4 mnting holes are a little off, but if its bored to a slip fit, the holes are not a problem since it plastic.
I'm just running a stock Force .26 w/an aftermarket head and that thing is quick.
 
digger said:
Hey AC48,
Have you tried the sliding clutch from XTM yet? http://www.hobbypeople.net/gallery/149596.asp
I put it in my X-term. Seems like it grabs harder than the stock. The way it works there is more clutch contacting the clutch bell. I have never had a racing clutch, so I don't know how it compares. But the kit is $20 and replacement shoes are only $10. Not sure if you can use it with a starter box. The flywheel is smaller. :cheers:
I was going to try it, but I read on the Global forum that it makes starater boxes impossible to use. My Collari is a nonpull so I need to be able to use a box. So the Ofna ones are out. I hear a lot about Mugen clutches...should I try one? I have a 3 pin flywheel so I just need shoes and springs, unless i am going to try a different type...:shrug:
 
Yea I've already got a set of those Woops II, I don't really like them that much...
 
hey you can make a really nice diff mount for those OFNA gears if you have an old Kyosho center spur.....just grind off the teeth and use the extra holes they have already drilled...they fit the OFNA mounts for those ring type spur gears...since it's hardened tool steel it should last pretty much forever......best mod I made for the truggy....I have a 65t plastic gear but was afraid to run it w/ my sirio or fantom.....I'll have to try it and see how it holds up....but you can get a 62t steel OFNA one...that's what I've been using....thanks for the tip on the 65t...
 
Get the badlands. These are hands down the meanest meats on the market right now. If you bash they kick ass. Nothing like seeing three foot rooster tails of your neighbors lawn going skywards. Plus, you can pelt the guy next to you with roost chest high when you drive by. Sorry, I sprung a testosterone leak for a second there. They really hook up in almost any condition. Corrado is right though, you may have to watch your clutch or re-gear for these tires.
 
I know I need to watch my clutch, which is why I was asking. Is there anything under like $30 that will hold up the grip of the badlands and power of the collari decently? Just shoes and springs that is...
 
I'm gunna bring this one back instead of starting a new thread. I am seeing a tad of hesitation under acceleration with my B3, so I want to go down a tooth on the CB. Is that a good idea with the badlands and all? I'm going from a 14 to a 13, or should I go to 12?

Also I am still looking for a clutch. I hear a lot about the Mugen ones. I like the looks of me MP777 clutch too. Any other suggestions on what I should do?
 
Ok, I'll go with a 13 Tooth bell.

I was lookin around and I think I'll go with a Mugen clutch. Do I need the Al shoes or can I go with the Carbon ones? And which will grab harder, 1mm or 1.1mm springs?
 
You can use carbon it doesn't' matter. If you go with the aluminum it will be a tad more work, but more bite. I haven't done any research on what clutch springs do what so I can't answer that question.
 
Will the aluminum last longer? I heard they can leave chucks of metal that can ruin your bearings though, is that true?
 
Thats where the maintance (I can't spell) comes into play. You have to clean off the burrs that collect on the ends of the shoes. I have not heard of them ruining bearings tho. Yes they should last longer too.
 
springs are easy guys...the higher numbers engage later (stiffer spring)....AC if you don't like taking your engine out about every quart just to check then get carbon shoes....VB is right the aluminum ones will bite alot more...but they do need to be deburred....if you don't do it then they wear out extremely fast....
 
Well I take out my engine about every quart anyway for cleaning etc...and I want more bite :) I think I may try those and the 1.1 springs for a nice grab. And I will try going down to a 13 tooth CB.
 
use 1.0 springs instead, and if you want a later engagement, drill a 1mm hole in the tip of each shoe. 1.1 springs are too strong and allow the clutch to slip.
 
Back
Top