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Chubaka's Ford F450

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@Greywolf74 or anyone familiar with castle link? I tried with and without the battery in the truck, both on and off. I tried all 3 usb ports, both cords I had and even updated it. I can't access anything as it's not picking it up. I unplugged everything from the esc, all fans, lights, even the motor sensor wire.

Any suggestions?

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Chubaka said:
@Greywolf74 or anyone familiar with castle link? I tried with and without the battery in the truck, both on and off. I tried all 3 usb ports, both cords I had and even updated it. I can't access anything as it's not picking it up. I unplugged everything from the esc, all fans, lights, even the motor sensor wire.

Any suggestions?

View attachment 178850

View attachment 178851
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All you should have to do is plug the castle link into the RX plug of the ESC, and then plug the USB cable in to the link.

Question, You said you updated it, but how did you update the ESC if it won't connect to the Link? I'm wondering if maybe you accidentally bricked the ESC? If you didn't brick it, then I'd guess the castle link is bad, since you tried multiple USB cables and multiple USB ports.
 
Greywolf74 said:
All you should have to do is plug the castle link into the RX plug of the ESC, and then plug the USB cable in to the link.

Question, You said you updated it, but how did you update the ESC if it won't connect to the Link? I'm wondering if maybe you accidentally bricked the ESC? If you didn't brick it, then I'd guess the castle link is bad, since you tried multiple USB cables and multiple USB ports.
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I tried the software and it didn't work. Then the software on the pc had an update, so I updated it. A year ago I used it no problem. Today it didn't have the copperhead until after I updated it. I was gonna try to restart the computer......... but it's in my dad's truck. I won't see him until Monday. So this will be Mondays headache.

The esc worked yesterday. It lights up red when I turn it on and connected so I don't think it bricked. I have a new copperhead for this truck. I just need to solder it up.
 
Chubaka said:
I tried the software and it didn't work. Then the software on the pc had an update, so I updated it. A year ago I used it no problem. Today it didn't have the copperhead until after I updated it. I was gonna try to restart the computer......... but it's in my dad's truck. I won't see him until Monday. So this will be Mondays headache.

The esc worked yesterday. It lights up red when I turn it on and connected so I don't think it bricked. I have a new copperhead for this truck. I just need to solder it up.
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Do you have any other Castle ESCs you can try it on? You need either another ESC or another Castle Link to test in order to rule out one piece versus the other piece. Restarting the PC is the first thing I would try, but after that this is what you're looking at since you already tried multiple cables and USB ports.

If you didn't upgrade the firmware on the ESC, then it shouldn't be bricked. When you said you updated it in your earlier post, I didn't realize you meant you update the PC software. I thought you meant you updated the firmware on the ESC. That being said, it doesn't mean the ESC itself may not have an issue.

When I plug in one of my Castle ESCs the red and yellow LEDs are lit up solid and the green light flashes very fast. Sounds like yours is only lighting up the red LED?
 
Greywolf74 said:
Do you have any other Castle ESCs you can try it on? You need either another ESC or another Castle Link to test in order to rule out one piece versus the other piece. Restarting the PC is the first thing I would try, but after that this is what you're looking at since you already tried multiple cables and USB ports.

If you didn't upgrade the firmware on the ESC, then it shouldn't be bricked. When you said you updated it in your earlier post, I didn't realize you meant you update the PC software. I thought you meant you updated the firmware on the ESC. That being said, it doesn't mean the ESC itself may not have an issue.

When I plug in one of my Castle ESCs the red and yellow LEDs are lit up solid and the green light flashes very fast. Sounds like yours is only lighting up the red LED?
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The link lights up red when plugged in. The esc will light up red only if I plug it in the battery.

I have a sidewinder, og mamba, and a brand new copperhead I will try Monday when I get my computer back. Thanks for your help.
 
Chubaka said:
The link lights up red when plugged in. The esc will light up red only if I plug it in the battery.

I have a sidewinder, og mamba, and a brand new copperhead I will try Monday when I get my computer back. Thanks for your help.
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Anytime. I hope you get it sorted :)
 
Chubaka said:
If not I got a sledge hammer and am feeling like gallagher. 🤣
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The amazing Mastertool Corporation, ace subsidiary of Fly-By-Night Industries, has entrusted who? Me! To show you the handiest and the dandiest kitchen tool you've ever seen, and don't you want to know how it works!

Well, first you get out some ordinary Castle ESCs. You place the ordinary Castle ESCs between the patented pans. Then you next get out the tool that is not a slicer, it's not a dicer it's not a chopper in a hopper, what the hell could it possibly be? It is Sledge-O-Matic!

Angry Watermelon GIF
 
Restarted my pc and same thing. The truck runs and drives as it should. I left my other escs, so tonight I'll try those. Worse case scenario I'll keep a spare esc on long drives and drive it till it goes or hangs up.

On this 2850kv, I forgot to plug the sensor wire in. Has a nice whine on low end almost like a turbo. 🥰

2nd esc the same. A new programmer is $20. Gonna get one in a couple weeks.

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Truck is being a pain in the rear end. Installed a locker and drive 15 minutes perfect. Up and down a steep incline pulling 30Ibs no problem. Did some passes on flat ground and some donuts without weight and still good.

I get home and drive 2 minutes before it becomes right wheel drive. Drive it for 10 minutes like that. Get to work and drive another 10 minutes and decide to pull again. Made it 20 feet no issues. I hit the brake and I lose all power to the wheels.

I'm assuming since you can feel the initial torque the shafts may have exited the locker.
 
Chubaka said:
Truck is being a pain in the rear end. Installed a locker and drive 15 minutes perfect. Up and down a steep incline pulling 30Ibs no problem. Did some passes on flat ground and some donuts without weight and still good.

I get home and drive 2 minutes before it becomes right wheel drive. Drive it for 10 minutes like that. Get to work and drive another 10 minutes and decide to pull again. Made it 20 feet no issues. I hit the brake and I lose all power to the wheels.

I'm assuming since you can feel the initial torque the shafts may have exited the locker.
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Don't you just hate when the shaft slips out? 😜

But how would they slip out? Isn't there flanges or steps on the axle that lock it in place?
 
WickedFog said:
Don't you just hate when the shaft slips out? 😜

But how would they slip out? Isn't there flanges or steps on the axle that lock it in place?
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Atleast they didn't slip out then get shoved into a solid object.🫠🤣

I might have stripped the screw in the plastic or I rounded the locker which is aluminum. The wheels turn a souther hair then stop as the drives after on the pinion spins.

Tune in later to find out. 😁
 
Chubaka said:
Atleast they didn't slip out then get shoved into a solid object.🫠🤣

I might have stripped the screw in the plastic or I rounded the locker which is aluminum. The wheels turn a souther hair then stop as the drives after on the pinion spins.

Tune in later to find out. 😁
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I'm very curious to see what the problem is.
 
Judging by the silver, I spun a new locker. I shoved it back in to try out and it was still in neutral. Cleaning up the locker for photos to send to cen. Not even an hour of runtime.

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The lightweight locker is what I have and is aluminum. The other says metal. I'm assuming steel.

https://www.cenracingusa.com/products/ckq0216

https://www.cenracingusa.com/products/ckq0218

Open diff is going back in. Gonna see about the metal locker and go ahead and buy the aluminum duff housing and hd diff gears. There goes the aluminum hop up money!
 
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