Chassis Trouble

[Badinfluence26]

I have always had a dream of building a big block T-maxx truck. So I bought a big block chassis on Ebay, and decided to buy GREAT LOOKING INTENGY suspension parts and transmission to go alone with it, i check part number before i purchased to make sure that everything will align up. I'm seem to be having trouble with putting everything together. Has anyone else had trouble with INTEGY products.

Are there any good T-MAXX mechanics near the Houston TX area

 

[DXtreme1]

Integy parts are nice looking however through the years they have been known fitment issues and durability issues. What parts are you having fitment issues with. I've modified a lot of non TMaxx part to fit and have fabricated parts to fit my TMaxx so I could probably help you if you detail what parts and issues you are having. The truck looks good by the way. I'm actually doing a blue, silver and green scheme on my TMaxx so I kinda have a huge vested interest here lol.

 

[Badinfluence26]

I REALLY THANK YOU for responding thats cool !!
My first problem are the steering knuckle carriers and bearing. There is alot of space in the knuckle.

These do not fit my stock axles nor do they fit my steel CVD's.
My second problem is after installing my bulkheads i seem now to have a twist in the frame, which now has everything crooked.
Third my middle shaft cvd "to and from" the transmission does not fit. Neither the stock nor the steal cvd.

I REALLY THANK YOU for responding thats cool !! My first probrole

I REALLY THANK YOU for responding thats cool !!
My first problem are the steering knuckle carriers and bearing. There is alot of space in the knuckle.

These do not fit my stock axles nor do they fit my steel CVD's.
My second problem is after installing my bulkheads i seem now to have a twist in the frame, which now has everything crooked.
Third my middle shaft cvd "to and from" the transmission does not fit. Neither the stock nor the steal cvd.

 

[DXtreme1]

When you installed your bulkheads did you install it as one unit with the diffs installed or did you do one side of the BH first then the diff then the other BH? Either way is fine however I find that doing it one side at a time makes aligning it easier. The trick is not to tighten any of the screws all the way. You do each one snug and then align and when you think it's all good torque it down one at a time until you have all the screws for the chassis, skidplates, lower chassis brace all lined up. As far as the axles and CVD do you mean they are too short to fit into the hub carrier or is it too long? It's hard to tell from the angle of the shot. Also the rear toe links should be adjustable if it's too short to fit.

 

[Certified Mike]

If this is something you plan on running, you DEF need to use loctite on ALL the metal parts! They will quickly vibrate loose and then out completely otherwise. All this work you're doing to allign will have been wasted time! The trick here is to be sure that you know where everything is going, and have it alligned etc before you get everything covered in the picture. It won't hurt anything, just make the tighten and loosen processes more difficult. I have not used to 'stick' version, only liquid loctite but there are a few ppl here who really like the stick. The most important thing here is that you get BLUE loctite!!! The blue compound is enough so that it does it's job but isn't impossible to loosen the screws when needed where as the red is over the top and will fight you every step of the way!!!

This is the stuff you need!
The process that @DXtreme1 explains is exactly how I would do it as well. Good luck!!!

 

[Badinfluence26]

When you installed your bulkheads did you install it as one unit with the diffs installed or did you do one side of the BH first then the diff then the other BH? Either way is fine however I find that doing it one side at a time makes aligning it easier. The trick is not to tighten any of the screws all the way. You do each one snug and then align and when you think it's all good torque it down one at a time until you have all the screws for the chassis, skidplates, lower chassis brace all lined up. As far as the axles and CVD do you mean they are too short to fit into the hub carrier or is it too long? It's hard to tell from the angle of the shot. Also the rear toe links should be adjustable if it's too short to fit.

If this is something you plan on running, you DEF need to use loctite on ALL the metal parts! They will quickly vibrate loose and then out completely otherwise. All this work you're doing to allign will have been wasted time! The trick here is to be sure that you know where everything is going, and have it alligned etc before you get everything covered in the picture. It won't hurt anything, just make the tighten and loosen processes more difficult. I have not used to 'stick' version, only liquid loctite but there are a few ppl here who really like the stick. The most important thing here is that you get BLUE loctite!!! The blue compound is enough so that it does it's job but isn't impossible to loosen the screws when needed where as the red is over the top and will fight you every step of the way!!!

View attachment 30344

This is the stuff you need!
The process that @DXtreme1 explains is exactly how I would do it as well. Good luck!!!

I think that the STEEL CVD is too short and the STOCK CVD it seems as if i need a bigger bearing. I have the toe links screwed in as far as they will go.
As far as lock tight i wanted to make sure that everything fits perfectly before i apply that. Thats for the suggestion though.

 

[Certified Mike]

Yes! Def get the fit right first! If I wasn't clear about that, I apologize as that is important so as not to create more work for yourself. Just don't forget it as I am sure that will be a big regret! Please don't forget to post pics of the build and the completed project!

 

[Badinfluence26]

Also i have tried to call and email INTEGY to see if there was something else that i need to purchase but i was only responded back by the sales department. I was told they dont have a TECH divison. So warning to others, learn from my mistake,ok buy at OUR OWN RISK. They do offer returns but i am past that date.

Yes! Def get the fit right first! If I wasn't clear about that, I apologize as that is important so as not to create more work for yourself. Just don't forget it as I am sure that will be a big regret! Please don't forget to post pics of the build and the completed project!

I will post pictures when I am done.This truck has been sitting in my laudry room on HALF DISPLAY. I am now very determine to get this truck done soon, Even if i have to go to a MILL and make the parts myself.

 

[DXtreme1]

It is very possible that even with your due diligence it is possible that the part numbers were correct but the parts in the package are incorrect. You should list it on EBay or Letgo or even post it here in the forum under the for sale section. Though you will not get the full amount at least you can get part of it. I'm sorry that I may not have a better solution but it seems you will have to buy those parts again and hope that it is the correct one this time. The toe links are they GPM? It may seem like the steel CVDs are for the 2.5 the hub carriers looks like a 3.3 and they do require the bigger bearings which leads me to think your stock axles are from a 2.5. The toe links of they are too long then it has to be the 3.3. buy possible you may have switched the front ones for the rear and the rear vice versa. Just to clarify the suspension set up for this truck is for the 3.3 correct?

I think that the STEEL CVD is too short and the STOCK CVD it seems as if i need a bigger bearing. I have the toe links screwed in as far as they will go.
As far as lock tight i wanted to make sure that everything fits perfectly before i apply that. Thats for the suggestion though.

 

[Badinfluence26]

Dxtreme1 you may have a very VALID point. The TOE LINKS are INTEGY as well. I have spent a great deal of money in this truck, i was building it to take a bashing. But this does sound exactly like my problem.
#1 First Question what bearing to buy?
#2 Second Are you suggesting i get a 3.3 stock axle setup?
#3 Third i went back and looked at the INTEGY website it doesn't state which truck it should fit, it just says traxxas tmaxx.
Good observation though

 

[hamz9561]

If this is something you plan on running, you DEF need to use loctite on ALL the metal parts! They will quickly vibrate loose and then out completely otherwise. All this work you're doing to allign will have been wasted time! The trick here is to be sure that you know where everything is going, and have it alligned etc before you get everything covered in the picture. It won't hurt anything, just make the tighten and loosen processes more difficult. I have not used to 'stick' version, only liquid loctite but there are a few ppl here who really like the stick. The most important thing here is that you get BLUE loctite!!! The blue compound is enough so that it does it's job but isn't impossible to loosen the screws when needed where as the red is over the top and will fight you every step of the way!!!

View attachment 30344

This is the stuff you need!
The process that @DXtreme1 explains is exactly how I would do it as well. Good luck!!!

I am one of the ones that uses the LocTite #244 stick. I find it easier to get exactly where I want it and not all over everything else like I tend to do with the liquid #242.

 

[DXtreme1]

Comparing your stock suspension set up and what you have right now you should easily be able to tell if your arms are of the 2,5 or 3.3 set up. Your hub/axle carriers are def 3.3 because it requires the 3.3 bearings and the toe link mount has an upper and lower brace which requires the pivot ball stand hardware screw mount. If your arms are longer than the stock ones then you have the right arms for the 3.3 suspension assuming you want the 3.3 wider suspension which you would want to since you're running a big block set up so this would require a 3.3 axle set up or the equivalent CVD to fit the 3.3 axle carrier you have. You will need the 3.3 bearings for the axles and 3.3 toe links. This worries me as far as fitment is concerned since you mentioned they are already screwed in all the way. So if it doesn't fit still but it should if you have the 3.3 arms since you mentioned the CVDs were too short.

Dxtreme1 you may have a very VALID point. The TOE LINKS are INTEGY as well. I have spent a great deal of money in this truck, i was building it to take a bashing. But this does sound exactly like my problem.
#1 First Question what bearing to buy?
#2 Second Are you suggesting i get a 3.3 stock axle setup?
#3 Third i went back and looked at the INTEGY website it doesn't state which truck it should fit, it just says traxxas tmaxx.
Good observation though

Please be advised that using an all aluminum suspension set up including the bulkheads for bashing is way too heavy. You will be bending and breaking hingepins(they're a PITA to remove when they bend or break)arms will bend, possibly your shock shafts will bend on big jumps due to the weight. Your tranny gears if not metal will strip either from the motor since it will be a big block and the weight it has to push. I would keep the spur plastic since you need a breaking point in your drivetrain. Spurs are cheap and easy to replace. Your diffs will be an issue as well if you have the 2.5 and not the 3.3 with revo internals or better yet go to a UE or FLM hybrid set up. I honestly thought this was a shelf queen but for what you intend to use this for I'm worried that it will prove not to be durable at all. If you check out some of the forum members TMaxx rides including myself you'll see that the use of aluminum parts are chosen carefully. Members that have the same or similar set up as yours are strictly shelf queens and not used for bashing when they run it. When running aluminum bulkheads we run RPM arms or stock ones - or you run aluminum arms then you would run RPM BH(stock ones are too fragile and a majority of us won't do this set up when running aluminum arms). For hingepins I like the hardened steel kinds coz I'd rather have them break off than bend. It's easier to remove a broken off hingepin compared to a bent one. You'll see what I mean eventually.

Don't be discouraged on your build. We have all experienced some if not all the issues and frustrations you're having and it's normal that you may have to do some modifications or tweaking on certain parts even on parts that is supposed to be drop in. Just know that if you need some encouragement, help or advise we're all here for you. To be honest if I was local to you I would have met up already in person to help you out with your build. But if you truly get stuck and if it's easier we can do skype, FaceTime or FB video conferencing if that's an option for you. We just have to set up a day and time to do it. I did a 2.5 to 3.3 suspension and drivetrain upgrade and I still have all the parts for it so I can easily compare any of the parts if needed.

 

[Badinfluence26]

Comparing your stock suspension set up and what you have right now you should easily be able to tell if your arms are of the 2,5 or 3.3 set up. Your hub/axle carriers are def 3.3 because it requires the 3.3 bearings and the toe link mount has an upper and lower brace which requires the pivot ball stand hardware screw mount. If your arms are longer than the stock ones then you have the right arms for the 3.3 suspension assuming you want the 3.3 wider suspension which you would want to since you're running a big block set up so this would require a 3.3 axle set up or the equivalent CVD to fit the 3.3 axle carrier you have. You will need the 3.3 bearings for the axles and 3.3 toe links. This worries me as far as fitment is concerned since you mentioned they are already screwed in all the way. So if it doesn't fit still but it should if you have the 3.3 arms since you mentioned the CVDs were too short.

Please be advised that using an all aluminum suspension set up including the bulkheads for bashing is way too heavy. You will be bending and breaking hingepins(they're a PITA to remove when they bend or break)arms will bend, possibly your shock shafts will bend on big jumps due to the weight. Your tranny gears if not metal will strip either from the motor since it will be a big block and the weight it has to push. I would keep the spur plastic since you need a breaking point in your drivetrain. Spurs are cheap and easy to replace. Your diffs will be an issue as well if you have the 2.5 and not the 3.3 with revo internals or better yet go to a UE or FLM hybrid set up. I honestly thought this was a shelf queen but for what you intend to use this for I'm worried that it will prove not to be durable at all. If you check out some of the forum members TMaxx rides including myself you'll see that the use of aluminum parts are chosen carefully. Members that have the same or similar set up as yours are strictly shelf queens and not used for bashing when they run it. When running aluminum bulkheads we run RPM arms or stock ones - or you run aluminum arms then you would run RPM BH(stock ones are too fragile and a majority of us won't do this set up when running aluminum arms). For hingepins I like the hardened steel kinds coz I'd rather have them break off than bend. It's easier to remove a broken off hingepin compared to a bent one. You'll see what I mean eventually.

Don't be discouraged on your build. We have all experienced some if not all the issues and frustrations you're having and it's normal that you may have to do some modifications or tweaking on certain parts even on parts that is supposed to be drop in. Just know that if you need some encouragement, help or advise we're all here for you. To be honest if I was local to you I would have met up already in person to help you out with your build. But if you truly get stuck and if it's easier we can do skype, FaceTime or FB video conferencing if that's an option for you. We just have to set up a day and time to do it. I did a 2.5 to 3.3 suspension and drivetrain upgrade and I still have all the parts for it so I can easily compare any of the parts if needed.

First off i would like to thank everyone who gave me great suggestions, and good ADVICE. I think i am going to do is order STEEL cvd's that will fit a 3.3 chassis. I am hoping that theses will fit my BIG BLOCK CHASSIS. If this doesn't work i am going back to stock.
Thanks again everyone

 

[Certified Mike]

Good luck! I will second that the use of aluminum parts can be disappointing. They are not as indestructible as one would hope. Just as you need a plastic gear for a breaking point, you need the same For your suspension. I would strongly urge you to look into rpm arms, esp for bashing. They look great and are actually a lot closer to indestructible!

 

[DXtreme1]

+1 what Certified Mike said. It's funny how both of us have the same way of thinking and coincidentally my real name is Michael and my nicknames are Mike or Mikey.

Good luck! I will second that the use of aluminum parts can be disappointing. They are not as indestructible as one would hope. Just as you need a plastic gear for a breaking point, you need the same For your suspension. I would strongly urge you to look into rpm arms, esp for bashing. They look great and are actually a lot closer to indestructible!

 

[olds97_lss]

Personally, if your going to actually run this thing, I'd do away with the alloy arms and towers and go with RPM.

She sure looks pretty though with the green and silver!

I spent many years with a t-maxx. Small block and big block. I just wish they had the diffs/sliders they have now back then. I had a hard time keeping cvd's/axles and diffs from grenading on me. Even with a tame OS21RG power plant.

Throughout all variations of the truck, one common theme was, if it sticks out, keep it plastic. Bulks, bulk braces, diff cases, chassis rails, trans case, all great as alloy, regardless of brand. Arms and towers, plastic or your in for a lot of expensive headaches. I ran RPM axle carriers too, but alloy is fine there if the arms are plastic. You need something that has some give for impacts.

I currently have a big block revo with an LRP28 in it. I'm running a plastic trans case full of robinson racing steel gears. Thought about getting an alloy trans case, but it's been holding up fine. I'm using stock (3.3/revo spec) sliders for the center and outer axles as well as stock diffs/diff cases. I also have an OS21TM revo, which has pretty much all the same stuff as my BB revo, except for MIP center axles. I bought it used and it came with them.

Back when I had my BB maxx, the 2.5 maxx came out and the revo didn't exist yet. My first MT was a 2.5 maxx, which I converted to a big block. Robinson Racing didn't make all the gears in the trans, so I still dealt with that as well as the forementioned diff/cvd issues. I could have owned traxxas stock considering how many diffs I replaced in that thing...

Interested to see how you go with yours.

 

[Certified Mike]

I'm pretty sure you can even get the rpm parts in green! They do come in blue and black for sure!

 

[DXtreme1]

They did come in white which can be dyed to any color you want however it's quite rare to find now. There's another company that made them as well. It looked like an exact replica of the RPM I just can't recall the brand name but those are rare if not rarer than the RPM

 

[Certified Mike]

I don't think I've ever seen them in dyable white! Cool!!!

 

[olds97_lss]

Looks like RPM still has them listed on their site:
http://www.rpmrcproducts.com/shop/a-arms/front-a-arms/t-e-maxx-2-5r-3-3-a-arms-dyeable-white/

Well, for the 2.5/3.3 maxx.