center CVD axles

Welcome to RCTalk

Come join other RC enthusiasts! You'll be able to discuss, share and private message with other members of our community.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Never seen these but honestly I have never had much trouble with the stockers. I could see if you were running an emaxx with some insane brushless power but for a simple 3.3 nitro these look like crazy overkill.
 
I 'm running a Picco .26 in my Maxx and because of this the stock plastic does not last long at all. I do have steel CVD's (revo cups and HPI dogbones) but thought these were pretty good looking at least.
 
I've ran these exact ones! Dont waste the $60. The picco will break these as well. I've done it twice on the rear. Front holds up great but the rear wears out around the pin at the joint and eventually at the right moment just snaps it off clean. I replaced them recently on the rear with an HPI DOG BONE. I measured approx 3 inches and found a dogbone that was that length and it works great. And there only $6 each instead of $60.
 
i've ran 4 tanks on the standard centers and gotta say they are very weak just waitin for the rear to snap so i can do the hpi mod and i also got a front shaft sewt from flm cost bout $20 and it comes with a cup with pins for the brakes
 
Yeah i got that same cup and pins for the front but the damn dogbone they sent with it is way too short and its supposed to be for the 4907 extended chassis. For now I'm just leaving the stock one on and when it does break i have two different length hpi bones to use on front. I hope one of them fits. I think its actually the same as the one i used on the rear from what i measured. Now i just need to rebuild my rear diff again and replace the spur again also. Thinking about just getting a set of emaxx diffs because they are stronger and supposed to hold up better than the 3.3 diffs.
 
Emaxx or wreck brushless diffs. Are what ya need if you already have the 4907 spec diff you can just buy the diff cup and brushless spec spider gears bout $15 from amain

---------- Post added at 6:56 AM ---------- Previous post was at 6:54 AM ----------

Damn autocorect I meant erevo. Not wreck lol
 
Autocorrect fail!...That's what happens when you let technology do your thinking for you.:hehe:
 
Bloody phone lol
Hey zdragon are you saying that the flm kit for the front is no good
 
I havnt had any issues with the front everytime I've broken something it has been rear only so far. Right now I've got a stock plastic short shaft on front and its holding up ok. But i do have the dogbone kit for front with the pins and when i went to install it the bone itself is like 1 inch or so too short. So i do t know if they shipped me the wrong one or what but i just bought another HPI dogbone the same length as the on i used on rear and obe just a 1/4 inch or less longer so one of them should work with the kit. Its just been sitting needing me to get to work on the bell clutch and diff and i been too lazy to mess with it this past week.
 
I dont understand why traxxas dont make a centre dvd kit for the 4907 chassis
Are you using the 77mm you shaft for the front
 
I dont know what size it is. Its the stock plastic one on the front. Like i said until it breaks I'm not changing it yet. I have the flm kit with the cups for a dog bone for a 4907 but the bone is too short. So i bought two different length hpi dogbones and hope one of them will fit the front when i do change to that set up. I believe its actually an 84mm and a 84.5mm bone i bought to use. The rear has a 84mm on it now
 
The picco shreds the stock. There is just no chance of durability, even the 3.3 with a good tune will quickly wear out the center shafts. Plus I run my slipper on the tight side. I hear that MIL makes some good center shafts. My stock plastic front has shown minimal wear, its always the rear. I think it has to do with load distibution and COG with the weight being transferred back under acceleration.
 
With the rb in mine I've destroyed the traxxas centres twice before I updated to the extended chassis and now after 5 tanks the stock centres are badly worn so ill change to the you rear shaft and ill check that front one when I get home
 
Well since my last post i have also dropped 4 teeth on the spur gear to a 54 tooth and it killed most of the violent torque at take off. But now when it hits second gear it starts climbing in speed very fast and i still can't controll her on the short course track we have. But thats really due to the loose ass dirt on the track. The dogbone in rear is working great. I believe my next mod for handling will be the Extreme Engineering 4 shock kit and shock towers for the maxx.
 
Unfortunately the problem is in the design of the truck. Any time you have a shaft that articulates there will be stress and wear issues. A driveshaft should always be as straight as possible. The dogbone setup seems to be the best in both cost and durability, but they will heat up!
I wish someone would design a bulkhead or diff case to raise the pinion angle, or maybe traxxas could lower the trans output.
 
Back
Top