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Carten T410R for street/parking lot bashing/racing?

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Was just worried it would traction roll because of the soft suspenion and the "high" ground clearance. But since I'm going to use VTA tires I'm guessing it won't be a problem.
 
If you want to do some drifting then install drift wheels instead of sway bars so you can switch back and forth where a set of drift tires can last many years!

https://www.amazon.com/GDOOL-Wheels-Plastic-Traxxas-Drifting/dp/B096G7L6J1

Here's an example of some custom drift wheels I made out of PVC plastic:

If I'm going to do drifting I will most definitely get plastic drift tires. What I am planning on right now is to be able to do a powerslide around a corner and then "take off" and not drifting. But do you think sway bars would improve powersliding or would it just hurt to install swaybars?
 
If I'm going to do drifting I will most definitely get plastic drift tires. What I am planning on right now is to be able to do a powerslide around a corner and then "take off" and not drifting. But do you think sway bars would improve powersliding or would it just hurt to install swaybars?

There's a lot of tuning that goes into getting a car to do a proper power slide so that you can stay on power in a corner without the car spinning out of control as you "drift" through the corner with high grip tires without traction rolling.

Every track condition is different and current weather conditions may force you to make tuning changes to get this level of handling just right.

Yes, having a complete set of sway bars will help, but you'll also need a set of springs and know how to tune the diffs, ride height, droop and roll center angles to get it tuned.

I posted a link to the HUDY tuning guide above, I would read that document to improve your tuning skills.

The easiest way to achieve what you're looking for is to experiment with various tire compounds and tire sauce as a shortcut. It can take countless hours of trial and error fiddling with the setup where tire selection is far more critical.

I use this cheat sheet here to quickly prioritize my tuning changes:

1723567395217.webp
 
There's a lot of tuning that goes into getting a car to do a proper power slide so that you can stay on power in a corner without the car spinning out of control as you "drift" through the corner with high grip tires without traction rolling.

Every track condition is different and current weather conditions may force you to make tuning changes to get this level of handling just right.

Yes, having a complete set of sway bars will help, but you'll also need a set of springs and know how to tune the diffs, ride height, droop and roll center angles to get it tuned.

I posted a link to the HUDY tuning guide above, I would read that document to improve your tuning skills.

The easiest way to achieve what you're looking for is to experiment with various tire compounds and tire sauce as a shortcut. It can take countless hours of trial and error fiddling with the setup where tire selection is far more critical.

I use this cheat sheet here to quickly prioritize my tuning changes:

View attachment 199025
So I think I will start by attaching sway bars and stiffening/lowering the suspenion and test it. I should probably also get some thicker diff oil (from what I have learned) but should I use the same in the front and the rear and what weight oil would be good? (It comes with 5000Wt for the front and rear)
 
Hard to say what the car needs without driving it, the version I had came with ball diffs.

Doesn't make any sense to me to install sway bars unless they are needed, for example, I would start with no sway bars, and if the car is spinning out then I would place the thinnest sway bar on front. If the car needed more steering, then I would install the lightest sway bar on the rear and then it becomes a balancing act of how thick of sway bar goes on the front/rear respectively. The chart above prioritizes everything where tire compound is the first thing you need to address before anything else.

Generally, I prefer to have thicker fluid in the front diffs and sometimes a locked spool (solid front axle) on the front can help settle down a twitchy car. Just a guess, but I would start with 20K in the front diff and 5K in the rear diff should be fine, but can possibly go down to 3K in the rear depending on the chart above.
 
Hard to say what the car needs without driving it, the version I had came with ball diffs.

Doesn't make any sense to me to install sway bars unless they are needed, for example, I would start with no sway bars, and if the car is spinning out then I would place the thinnest sway bar on front. If the car needed more steering, then I would install the lightest sway bar on the rear and then it becomes a balancing act of how thick of sway bar goes on the front/rear respectively. The chart above prioritizes everything where tire compound is the first thing you need to address before anything else.

Generally, I prefer to have thicker fluid in the front diffs and sometimes a locked spool (solid front axle) on the front can help settle down a twitchy car. Just a guess, but I would start with 20K in the front diff and 5K in the rear diff should be fine, but can possibly go down to 3K in the rear depending on the chart above.
Will try that setup when I get mine. Thanks for the help!
 
Ok, looks good. But do you think I should buy sway bars to keep it from rolling and instead break traction?
Most standard touring cars sit so low that they hardly ever traction roll. For unprepped asphalt you want a soft suspension setup and some ground clearance.

I'd go with the rally version, don't worry about rolling over or control issues or anything until you drive it, if you don't like how it handles there's plenty of adjustments that you can make.

Metal spur gears are like metal suspension arms, they might look cool but they move the weak point to something more expensive/harder to access.
 
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