can't get my new RC Car tuned. Runs full throttle when started.

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irishluck09

RC Newbie
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Just bought a new Nitro car.

Its the Tornado S30 .18 engine.

Every time I start it it runs high idle. I can't figure out how to turn it down properly. I tried to adjust the idle screw but no help.
 
I've got all the setting set right for the radio. But now I can't even get the car to start.

I've been trying to get the carb set right.

I checked the plug and seems a little dim so put a new one in, but now the car just wont even show a stutter

The high speed needle was flush and it 3 turns in.
The low speed needle is flush
The idle screw is 2 turns out.

Radio is on. Car is on. is getting fuel. Pull start is hard to pull, so I've drains the engine of fuel and tried to start again.
 
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You said the glow plug was 'dim'. That tells me you need to charge the battery that powers it till it glows bright.
There is no setting for how many turns out the idle screw is. You need to look in the carb and set it close to the pic below as a proper starting point.

CarbNeck.jpg
 
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1mm is about the width of a credit card.
 
You also need to make that setting with the trim knob all the way down and the brake fully applied.

I had a brand new fully charged igniter. got a new plug and it was perfect.

But I finally got the engine to start and hopefully broken in properly.

Just still not sure if I'm tuning this right.

I ran the car today at work for about an hour. Seemed pretty good. But I read somewhere that there should be smoke coming from the exhaust when under acceleration. I saw no smoke coming from the exhaust and did the "spit" test after running it for 10 minutes and it was warm to the touch but the water never evaporated. I did the spit test while it was still running. This tells me its running to cold. Just don't know why.

Also when I got home from work today I played with it some more. Seemed fine and dandy. I hit a curb in a driveway and flipped it while still running. Sat like that for 10 seconds till I got to it and once I flipped it back and gave it throttle it died. Since then the carb will not prime. I use the finger over the exhaust method to prime it. Not a drop will go in.

I took the air filter off and put a few drops of fluid in the carb, she started right up and then quit again. No fuel is going into the lines.

Checked my fuel lines, resealed the exhaust and checked the plug to make sure it was sealed and all seems to be fine.
 
I had a brand new fully charged igniter. got a new plug and it was perfect.

But I finally got the engine to start and hopefully broken in properly.

Just still not sure if I'm tuning this right.

I ran the car today at work for about an hour. Seemed pretty good. But I read somewhere that there should be smoke coming from the exhaust when under acceleration. I saw no smoke coming from the exhaust and did the "spit" test after running it for 10 minutes and it was warm to the touch but the water never evaporated. I did the spit test while it was still running. This tells me its running to cold. Just don't know why.

Also when I got home from work today I played with it some more. Seemed fine and dandy. I hit a curb in a driveway and flipped it while still running. Sat like that for 10 seconds till I got to it and once I flipped it back and gave it throttle it died. Since then the carb will not prime. I use the finger over the exhaust method to prime it. Not a drop will go in.

I took the air filter off and put a few drops of fluid in the carb, she started right up and then quit again. No fuel is going into the lines.

Checked my fuel lines, resealed the exhaust and checked the plug to make sure it was sealed and all seems to be fine.

you really need a temp gun. please go buy one even a cheapy duratrax one is 10x better than a "spit test"
 
you really need a temp gun. please go buy one even a cheapy duratrax one is 10x better than a "spit test"

Well I can do that tomorrow.

But what I really need to figure out is why the carb wont prime.
 
Went a got myself a temp gun but still am unable to prime the carb.

Finally got the car primed. Guess my LSN was set way to low.

I used the temp gun and pointed it down on the glow plug and its only getting to 130-140 degrees.

Ran almost a full tank through it giving it mild throttle
 
130-140 Degrees is on the low side " this is a good thing " because you not overheating the engine.. General rule of Thumb for Nitro engine's don't let your temps exceed 265 MAX... I use Traxxas Power plants 100% of the time in my TRAXXAS Rigs & they suggest not to Exceed 270 Deg with there engines... I have my engines tuned not to run any hotter than about 255-260.... I'd Say when you have a tune where your engine is running in the Low 200's you have a decent tune... Also Remember check your temps a few times during a run that helps too....
 
130-140 Degrees is on the low side " this is a good thing " because you not overheating the engine..


You need to find the sweet spot. 140 seems VERY low. Running either too hot OR too cold could both damage your motor.
 
130-140 Degrees is on the low side " this is a good thing " because you not overheating the engine.. General rule of Thumb for Nitro engine's don't let your temps exceed 265 MAX... I use Traxxas Power plants 100% of the time in my TRAXXAS Rigs & they suggest not to Exceed 270 Deg with there engines... I have my engines tuned not to run any hotter than about 255-260.... I'd Say when you have a tune where your engine is running in the Low 200's you have a decent tune... Also Remember check your temps a few times during a run that helps too....

I went to a parking lot yesterday that was abandoned and played with it for an hour. I think every tank I went through I check the temp at least 10 times.

At one point I had the temp at 245 which I thought was way to hot for it but for the most part I have the temps running between 180-200

So I'm going to run it again tonight and turn it back down to run lower. It seems to be running very nicely after its run yesterday and seeing what it can really do.

IS there really much upgrade performance for these rc cars?
Also the shocks on this tornado s30 are veeeeery weak. I can drop it from 6" and it will smack the ground. Can you put a heavy oil in it or stronger springs?

Also I still have to do a little tweaking with the carb and clutch.
When I apply the brake on the controller it kind of shuts off the car. So a little tweaking I need to do with that.
And last, I need to check my sealing job with the engine. I have alot of oil on the right side of the car that's right behind the carb and exhaust. Now I know there may be some because of the exhaust but there is quite a bit that is on the body.
 
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Its just a cheaply made rig. Next time go with a quality company such as Traxxas, losi, HPI... etc
 
Minimum temp before running any engine hard should be 200 F, Max temp for an engine should be no more than 280 F but in saying that, don't tune your engine to a specific temp, tune to performance, just stay between them temps. As long as there is a reasonable stream of smoke coming from the exhaust & performance is good then the engine should be fine & if your engine seems to be running well then temps around the 245 F mark you had will be fine as long as there is smoke.
Different brands of engines like to run at different temps, some run a little cooler & some hotter but minimum temp should always be 200+F so the metals in the engine can expand properly causing the fit between parts to be correct & this will also help the engine produce its best power.
Some engines run great at close to 300 F & I have read of a few people running engine at 280+ without problems, although I'm not sure how long the engines last but they have said that is where there engine runs best without problems, other may only be 220 F.
Mine seem to like it a bit warmer, My Alpha .21 RTR engine runs best around 250-260 & my modified GODZILLA .21 Go Engine has been running at slightly lower temps but the weather has been cooler to. The dude who I got my modified engine from runs the same engine with higher compression on 60% nitro in a boat with temps up to 280F & getting speeds of 125+kph.
Keep your engine over 200F & pre-warming it will also help with engine life & will also make it easier to start. Hair dryers are good for pre-warming engines.
To prime your engine, pull the fuel line off the exhaust nipple & blow through it to pressurise the tank & force fuel into the carb, having the carb slightly open will help when doing this. don't suck back through the fuel line or you will get a mouthful.
 
NEVER....NEVER start a nitro engine till you know every mechanical part is moving correctly. NEVER. You can hurt yourself, someone else or you can blow the engine apart.

https://www.rcnitrotalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=60832

^^^ What he said. One time I started up my old TMaxx, and it took off, I reached down to pinch the fuel line and got bit… Badly lol lots of blood. As for your issue, I just recently had the same exact issue. My issue was, in the neutral position, the throttle linkage still held carb open. Tried messing with my throttle trim, but it seems to not work on my new TQi transmitter, which is stupid. There is a stopper on the linkage, held on by a lock screw. I just moved it out until the plunger on the carb was open just a hair. Runs fine now.
 
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