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Can't get clutch nut off... ERRR

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.21Rc10GT

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Well, i am installing a new engine on my rs4 3, and i got the clutch nut off of the old engine and put everything on the new one and tightend it down... Well, i guess i forgot to put a spacer in there and there is now a gap of about 1/16th of an inch between the nut and the flywheel... Well, i try to back the nut off, and it just spins the engine... Now what??? I havent torn the new engine down to see what i can stick where, just thought i would ask some experienced people first...
 
I had the same problem when I forgot the spacer behind the collet on my Savy. I used ARO to hydrolock it...Worked like a charm.
 
I've used a handfull of zipties wedged into the exaust port. or a bit of rag in the cylinder, I've even used a plastic locknut in the cylinder with a c clamp holdint it down. i know its hard on the con rod bushings but there isnt really any way to do it. even the hydra lock is hard on the bushings.
 
Thanks guys... I think i will try the ARO or zip ties (i had my old .21 8 port cut through 4 ziptie heads all in one try...
 
Use a thick zip so it doesn't just cut it off.
Next time you go to the LHS get a PL tool. They are cheap and work well.
 
What we did with the honda GX 160's (160cc 4 stroke genny engine) was to take the spark plug out, and feed some rope into the engine to lock the piston.
- You can also use this trick to change the valve springs withou taking the head off.

However, on a tiny little rc engine, i'd be mighty worryed about busting the con rod or sticking the piston locking tool though the piston.
- I always do it with the flywheel in a vice. Obvousley thats not an option here.
- But you might be able to get a hold on the thrustwasher?


Daniel
 
supercharged said:
If you have the clutch assembly removed use a flywheel wrench and a ratchet with the correct socket
I think you missed the point.
- He forgot the spacer, so the crank shaft hit the end of the nut before it was tight.
- So the fly wheel is just spinning loose (atlease, thats how i read it?)


Daniel
 
Did you use loctite? If so then you need to heat up the loctite with a small torch. A small air impact ratchet would be helpful.
 
Last edited:
Dhutch said:
I think you missed the point.
- He forgot the spacer, so the crank shaft hit the end of the nut before it was tight.
- So the fly wheel is just spinning loose (atlease, thats how i read it?)


Daniel

my bad
i think i was on :cloud9: when i read
 
rossb said:
Did you use loctite? If so then you need to heat up the loctite with a small torch. A small air impact ratchet would be helpful.
Good idea. A cigarette lighter would probably work at a pinch.
 
SMaxxin said:
So whats the verdict, did you get your nut off? :hehe:

Nope... Been too busy with school and work... I am gonna try to get at it this week..
 
Well, i finally found some time (got my homework done early). The hydrolocking with the ARO worked like a charm!!! Now, i put the spacer on and tightened it down, and the damn thing is too long. So, i need to cut about 3 threads off of the crank... All i have is a hacksaw for cutting... So i put a cut off nut on first, then hack it, then spin the nut off to clean the threads right??? Never done this before...
 
yea you got it right. the nut is just there to "fix" the threads after you hack it. if you got a dremle it is alot easyer.
 
Yeah, also when I'm cutting somthing really important, i usally put too nuts on, back onto each other (tighten against each other) Then use the nut as a guide to run the saw against.
- The last thing you want to so is knock the saw out of the grovve and rip it across all the threads making a mess!.

But yeah, put it in a vice if you have one, or use a mole wrench to clamp it to a table, or somthing.
- The put the nutso on, and cut it slow ans steady as you can.
- Then get a file, file the end smooth, then put a gentle chamfer on the end.
- Then run the nuts off, and back on again a few times, untill they clean the threads outs nicely.


Daniel
 
I know it's a bitch to remove the backplate to do what you did but I'd suggest getting this
http://www.southeastrc.com/Items/StdItemView.aspx?lookup=DYN2519
they are MUCH better for your conrod when you need to torque down on the Flywheel nut.....the piston locking tool can do damage when you torque down on it since the piston still has some travel left...or they just dimple the top of the piston........I learned the hard way on someone elses mill that you can snap the conrod w/ a P/L tool......
 
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