Brushless motors I'm lost

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That's an oldest generation of emaxx. I have one, paid 100$ for it. It's a two speed.

I would highly suggest to keep it stock or if you convert it to brushless to go with very mild setup. Those cars are not designed for brushless power and if you put anything higher than 3 s you will destroy something as soon as you pull the trigger.

If you plan to bash and jump this thing it will brake very easy. It's not worth putting any money into it and actually by doing mods you will lower it's value. Some collectors would pay more for all stock vintage emaxx than modified. But it's not very sought after truck with crazy price.

If you really want to convert to brushless I would go with hobbywing quick run 120 ESC and 3660 motor with around 3000 kv stock gearing. You don't need different motor plate, just use one motor.

I have newest emaxx second gen brushless edition that I bought as a roller for 60$


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If you really want to push your luck that go with 3670 motor.

If you need something to bash and abuse Maxx v2 is the way to go
thanks for the input. I wasn't wanting to go to something that wouldn't turn it into a part snapper, just something that would duplicate the power it has now. I took it out last night now that I upgraded a bunch of stuff and I was quite pleased with it's peed and performance. So your input was valuable. thanks
Bogda89 is right, a lot of older kits A) weren't built for modern brushless power & speed, and B) plastics become brittle with age.

If you want something fast to beat the hell out of, pick up an Arrma Kraton 6s EXB, Associated Rival MT8, E-Revo, etc.

Some of the vintage stuff can handle brushless alright, I've got a lot of vintage 1/10 Associated buggies and trucks and several converted 1/8 nitro buggies and truggies. But the old T-Maxx and E-maxx have 1/8 scale + weight with a lot of 1/10 part geometry, so they're not gonna take the torque like a beefy 1/8 critter or a 3.5 pound 2WD buggy or stadium truck that will mostly just spin tires.

1/10 short course truck electronics with moderate gearing, and use that is cognizant of the truck's age and weaker construction will allow you to enjoy it without destroying it.

Take it from someone who has overpowered a lot of vintage kits with both brushless motors and potent nitro engines.

There are definitely efficiency advantages to lipo/graphine and brushless if you select components that will more closely mimic the brushed motors. Some of my favorite vintage RC10 buggies and RC10T/T2 kits have fairly sedate 13.5T or 17.5T sensored brushless motors with ESC programming and gearing that is matched to the chassis, they're super smooth and controllable with long run times.
thanks. yeah, I don't want to get stupid with it and already planned on getting something newer that was designed for brushless power. All of the input was definitely helpful in my decision making process. thanks again
 
thanks for the input. I wasn't wanting to go to something that wouldn't turn it into a part snapper, just something that would duplicate the power it has now. I took it out last night now that I upgraded a bunch of stuff and I was quite pleased with it's peed and performance. So your input was valuable. thanks

thanks. yeah, I don't want to get stupid with it and already planned on getting something newer that was designed for brushless power. All of the input was definitely helpful in my decision making process. thanks again
You are welcome. Again, I would just keep it stock, but with first motor that I recommend, 2600kv on 3s it will be significantly faster with original pinion but it will not destroy your car. You can run 2 3s batteries in parallel for a lot of run time.

That car could be fun driving on the pavement or light off-road. 2 speed transmission is a really nice feature. But I would not jump that car. It's a fragile car to begin with, plus it's old, so plastics are probably brittle
 
You are welcome. Again, I would just keep it stock, but with first motor that I recommend, 2600kv on 3s it will be significantly faster with original pinion but it will not destroy your car. You can run 2 3s batteries in parallel for a lot of run time.

That car could be fun driving on the pavement or light off-road. 2 speed transmission is a really nice feature. But I would not jump that car. It's a fragile car to begin with, plus it's old, so plastics are probably brittle
whoever had the truck before me had done a lot of upgrades to the suspensions and drivelines. Pretty much everything has been upgraded and that was before i got ahold of it. It flat screams with freshly charged lipo batteries.
 
Well in case anyone is interested in my progress, I ended up putting a Traxxas 2200kv motor with a VXL-6s in it. Well, for starters, y'all were right about it being faster. Jeez, I kicked it into 2nd gear and I ran out of property quick and I live in the country with 4 acres of mowed lawn. Now I gotta open up part of my 15 acre side piece to make a track. I did grenade the rear axle. Spun the ring and pinion carrier in two. But that's right up my alley, so I fixed that. Now I gotta beef up the transmission. On a side note, I discovered that going on Ebay and looking for RC monster trucks was a bad idea. Because now I have two practically new electric E-Maxx's and two nitro HPI Savages coming and I picked up a T-Maxx Nitro today super cheap. So now the fun begins because i don't know sh*t about nitros. But I've been building motors most of my life, so it should be easy to figure out. Guess I'll have to fire up my backhoe and clear a couple acres to make a track and some rock crawling stuff too.
 
I have a lot of fun with my Summit... I put a 2200kV setup in it, but only run it on 4s, as that is plenty for my area.

Although large, it crawls pretty well in low gear with the diff's locked.
 
That's what I really wanted when they first came out. I ended up buying the SCX10. I've modified it with all metal tubed suspension, steel driveshafts and a host of other goodies. Basically I replaced most of the plastic stuff with metal stuff and of course went to a lot bigger tires. My son has the Wraith. Although his will flat go when he hits it, I can usually keep up because I'm more technical having been four wheeling my whole life. When the motor fries, I want to go brushless in it as well.
 
I had a T-Maxx 2.5 years ago, the old short-wheelbase version.

When I was getting back into the hobby, the E-Maxx was my first thought and the latest models had the longer wheel-base and were available both brushed and brushless. Mine was a twin motor brushed model, but I converted it to the single motor brushless setup making use of Traxxas' Poweer-up program, and their 4s/6s setup hasn't given me any issues. I mostly run it on 4s, due to the limitations in my area, as that provides ample speed for both the terrain and my driving ability. :p

The Summit was an impulse purchase from Jeggs Automotive, of all places, when they had them discounted late in the year... but I have been very happy with it. The 2200kV setup is a Spektrum Firma with their 150A ESC, which I bought from Jennys RC (who part out new RC models). I had no trouble fitting it to the Summit and it too, has been problem free.

Good luck with your own fleet, they are a lot of fun.
 
I'm still learning about all the different ESC's. I only got theVXL-6s, because that's what came with the 2200kv motor. I don't even know what the 4s or 6s means. But I just finished rebuilding the transmission. I only stripped out one idler gear, but I bought all steel gears and some bronze ones for backup. So the current upgrades should hold up now. It already had steel drivelines and axle shafts, so I don't have to worry about that and when I bought the lot that came with it, it had a bunch of extra suspension parts. So even if i happen to tear up the suspension, I have at least 4 sets of extra trailing arms. I happened to find a traxxas transmitter for a T-Maxx Nitro, so once that comes, I'll stuff in some new crystals and set this Nitro up. Already got one of the extra E-Maxx's I bought. Got one more coming and the two HPI Savage Nitro's are on the way as well. Now it's time to take this current one out and see how it does. Should fly now. lol
 
I don't even know what the 4s or 6s means.
4s means 4 cell lipo or 4 cell lithium battery
6s means 6 cell ipo or 6 cell lithium battery

It's really just the amount of cells.
More cells = more voltage = more power.

S = Cell.
Cell still means the same thing in other batteries like nimh and nicad.
 
4S or 6S refers to battery size (number of cells)... as the cell count gies up, so does the output voltage.

Brushless motors are rated by number of revolution per volt, so your 2200kV motor is capable of 2200rpm for each volt applied, 4S= 14.8v, 6S = 22.2v.

All that said, the truck should be notably faster on 6s, but gearing has an effect as well.
 
I'm still learning about all the different ESC's. I only got theVXL-6s, because that's what came with the 2200kv motor. I don't even know what the 4s or 6s means. But I just finished rebuilding the transmission. I only stripped out one idler gear, but I bought all steel gears and some bronze ones for backup. So the current upgrades should hold up now. It already had steel drivelines and axle shafts, so I don't have to worry about that and when I bought the lot that came with it, it had a bunch of extra suspension parts. So even if i happen to tear up the suspension, I have at least 4 sets of extra trailing arms. I happened to find a traxxas transmitter for a T-Maxx Nitro, so once that comes, I'll stuff in some new crystals and set this Nitro up. Already got one of the extra E-Maxx's I bought. Got one more coming and the two HPI Savage Nitro's are on the way as well. Now it's time to take this current one out and see how it does. Should fly now. lol
If you have any issues with nitro feel free to ask
 
thanks to everyone who commented. Especially on the nitro's. I'm sure I'll be on here asking some questions. I have everything, I just have to assemble it all. I now own 3 nitro moster trucks, 5 electric monster trucks a Stampede and two rock crawlers. They didn't have this cool stuff when I was a kid. I was excited when I got a Grasshopper from Tamiya. I couldn't convince my parents to buy me the Toyota Bruiser by Tamiya. I still want one just to put on a shelf. But with everything I have, I have a lot of extra parts. The only one I'm not going to modify is a Traxxas E-maxx that has a body that apparently is rare. So that one is going to sit on a shelf with ocassional play.
 
My E-Maxx is one of my favorites, but it doesn't get out as often as some of the others I own.

My Associated MT-10 has been a beast for me, and my Summit gets the nod when size matters.

Have fun, and keep us posted.

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Here's a new question to anyone following along. I took the
Traxxas 3480 - Velineon VXL-6s Brushless Power System, 2200Kv Motor & ESC and installed all of it onto an aluminum base plates and now the forward and reverse are backwards. How do i take something from the plastic tub and put it into an aluminum tub and now it runs backwards. If it was just a two wire motor I'd just switch the battery leads around. However, this system has three wires and I don't want to fry a pretty spendy motor and ESC. Any help would be appreciated.
 
Here's a new question to anyone following along. I took the
Traxxas 3480 - Velineon VXL-6s Brushless Power System, 2200Kv Motor & ESC and installed all of it onto an aluminum base plates and now the forward and reverse are backwards. How do i take something from the plastic tub and put it into an aluminum tub and now it runs backwards. If it was just a two wire motor I'd just switch the battery leads around. However, this system has three wires and I don't want to fry a pretty spendy motor and ESC. Any help would be appreciated.
What radio do you have. You can reverse a channel through it.
 
It's a Traxxas TQ3 and everytime I go to switch the channels, it's wide open throttle and I can't turn the throttle trim down low enough.
 
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