Brushed motor break in?

[hulkmaxx]

Okay guys just ordered my new motor for my scx10. I was just wondering what every ones take is on a proper break in for a brushed motor. I have found so many way's online way confusing. Was thinking about going with the cup of water method. How do you guys do it? I did not even think you had to break in these brushed motors. I just ran my new scx10 real easy for like the first couple packs and it seem to do fine. But like I said I wasn't aware of having to properly break an electric motor in.

 

[override]

I have read a few things on breaking in with the water method and the steps to do so seem inconsistent from one person to the next. I did read that it shortens the life of the motor as it is basically making the motor loosen up by premature wear. I personally think the water break in thing is kinda silly but then again I have no experience with it so that is just my opinion. I also did read that it in fact does make the motor gain speed, apparently a noticeable amount at that.

 

[hulkmaxx]

Decided to just run it for about 20 min on my stands with no drag at low speed to try and seat the brushes. Then ran it about 20 min at slow speed on the ground and varied the throttle input but never at wide open throttle. Not sure about this breaking in the brushed motors. Seems there is a crap ton of confusing info out there. And people say nitro break in is hard LOL!! Guess I'll just run it and if it dies I'll replace it with a better motor that has replaceable brushes. It does seem to be running a lot cooler with the 14t pinion gear. I thought the electric motor stuff would be easier but it all seems more technical than the nitro's then I'm used to.:whhooo:

 

[Nitrotrout]

I thought the electric motor stuff would be easier but it all seems more technical than the nitro's then I'm used to.:whhooo:

Man I couldn't agree more.
I had no idea my electric motor had to be broken in. I just charged the batteries plugged it in and ran it. I double checked my owners manual and there's nothing mentioned about break in, just periodic maintenance.
There's a lot of terminology to learn, my biggest concern is learning how to charge, discharge and balance Lipo batteries so they don't burst into flame.
I never had to worry about my nitro truck catching fire unless I intentionally set it ablaze..These Lipos seem a bit more unstable.. Way more complex than nitro IMO

 

[override]

I would say electric is both easier and more technical than nitro but they both have pros and cons.

In the sense of having to carry fuel, glow plugs, glow ignitor, filler bottle, screwdriver to tune, temp gun and receiver battery everywhere you go compared to a well setup electric you just charge, plug in and go. That to me makes electric easier but also can be boring sometimes.

Knowing battery chemistry, how to charge, what motor/esc and pinion/spur to couple with electric components to achieve desired speed and temps is frustrating sometimes but when your nitro won't run right and having to troubleshoot to me is way more frustrating. Tuning in itself on a well running nitro (if you don't understand tuning well) is also frustrating as poop. So both have there pro's and con's of technicality and ease of use....IMO

 

[hulkmaxx]

Yah they both have there own problems. I have just feel that electrics seem to be way more complex with all the break in and battery choice and proper battery maintenance, and so on. I am still learning all I can because I really do enjoy the scale side of the hobby. I just have a better understanding of nitro and I definitely find nitro easier for me. I am sure after some experience with the electric stuff down the road it will become easier to though. Still was surprised no one else chimed in on the brushed motor break in procedure. seeing as I have searched and there seems to be about 2000 ways people do it. LOL

 

[Jacks9930]

I have use the water method before and found no difference then with out. So what I do now is run it at quarter throttle to set the brushes then clean them out with contact cleaner and re-oil.

 

[goodgamer]

I am in the same boat!

I have used the cup of water method a couple times, not for break in though just for cleaning. Some people say to leave it in for 10 to 20 minutes I personally disagree, I do mine five minutes at most. I have noticed a greater performance difference in the motor, but not for to long time period (maybe I just get used to the difference, or the performance goes back down again). I haven't used this method on a motor for more then twice. So I don't know if it will "kill" the motor faster or preserve it for longer.

 

[HPIguy]

The water method was an old school trick when brushes were much harder than they are today. Most big brushed motor builders say it isn't need these days.

Straight from Holmes Hobbies;

Motor Break In

Place the motor on a stable surface, or remove the pinion if motor is installed in a vehicle. Allow motor to spin with no load. Apply between 2.5 and 3 volts to your motor for three to five minutes with six to twelve degrees timing. The brushes should be “seated” with at least 90% of the brush face touching the commutator. Slow motors such as 55 turn TorqueMasters may need more time to fully break in. Some brush types may require more time. Visually inspecting the brush during the process will ensure you see the changes and know the condition.

http://www.holmeshobbies.com/blog/?page_id=373

 

[hulkmaxx]

The water method was an old school trick when brushes were much harder than they are today. Most big brushed motor builders say it isn't need these days.

Straight from Holmes Hobbies;

Motor Break In

Place the motor on a stable surface, or remove the pinion if motor is installed in a vehicle. Allow motor to spin with no load. Apply between 2.5 and 3 volts to your motor for three to five minutes with six to twelve degrees timing. The brushes should be “seated” with at least 90% of the brush face touching the commutator. Slow motors such as 55 turn TorqueMasters may need more time to fully break in. Some brush types may require more time. Visually inspecting the brush during the process will ensure you see the changes and know the condition.

http://www.holmeshobbies.com/blog/?page_id=373

I just bought the El Cheapo Atomik to run for now. Looking at an Itegy 35t maybe get a couple of them for back ups. The Atomik has no timing adjustment and it's a sealed can no way of inspecting the brushes so I will just run it until it dies LOL! I was going to do a dual motor setup but want to get the hang of this electric stuff for now.

 

[HPIguy]

Sealed cans can benefit from break in, and can be flushed out using the water method, or so I've heard when they start to lose performance. Other than that, you're on the right track, just buy another cheap motor.