RC10 gt original black tub and white plastic, Traxxas pro .15, had rayaracing pinch the sleeve (did a great job btw) just finished breaking it in, was making great power pulling wheelies and running great, i started some longer full throttle passes and then "bink" motor dies, tore it down and the journal the con rod attaches to snapped right off. Ended up finding a new in the package one on ebay for 2 bucks, and picked up a new con rod at a lhs for 12 bucks, oh well, I think I have broken and replaced every other part so far so I guess I was do...
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broke my crank.....
- Thread starter blown67
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- Messages
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broke my crank.....
Wow, that has GOT to be painful, but according to your user name, I think you're used to that.
Wow, that has GOT to be painful, but according to your user name, I think you're used to that.
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You are NOT right, Ralph...
I hyper extended mine one time. It DID hurt like... Well I would have to cuss to tell you how bad.
I hyper extended mine one time. It DID hurt like... Well I would have to cuss to tell you how bad.
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Um yeah...sucks when you break your crank. I have never broken mine but it got a bit bent once. I was told it was do to overheating and surface galling due to excessive friction. Maybe not enough lubrication...too lean on the high speed.....needle. Over RPM maybe. It was really beating it hard when it happened.....poor T-Maxx.
- Thread starter
- #6
Well, I'm all fixed up now, while I was at it I bought the newer style air filter, I still had the old paper filter with foam prefilter setup, think this may be the source of my tuning issues now, so I went back to lsn flush and hsn 2 1/2 and tuned from there, ran well but had to richen hsn a full turn, runs and idles fine but was stalling every now and then at idle, but my biggest problem is once it warms up it is extremely hard to start, even with a brand new glow plug........
- Thread starter
- #7
one other thing I noticed, when I put the motor back together an resealed it, I tested by blowing threw fuel tubing and did hear a faint hiss coming from where the throttle linkage goes into the carb body, but only when the throttle is opened, at idle the leak is not there.......
- Messages
- 35,104
- Reaction score
- 1,854
- Points
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- Location
- In my recliner
- RC Driving Style
- Bashing
- Flying
When it's warmed up and you've run it for a while, bring it in and pinch the fuel line close to the carb and see how many seconds it takes for it to speed up and shut off.
You're looking for 3 to 4 seconds, less than that and it's too lean, and that might account for the hard starting.
You're looking for 3 to 4 seconds, less than that and it's too lean, and that might account for the hard starting.
- Thread starter
- #9
It turns out the linkage was binding when full brake was applied, it was actually moving the carb and screwed up the o-ring at the base of it, which i believe was creating the lean condition, new o-ring a little rtv, some lock tight on the pinch bolt, and I think I am back in business, but it did run great when it was going, a little too good for my diff gear......
