Break In Woes

[big kal]

I was helping my buddy yesterday trying to break in his new RC10 GT. The problem is we couldn't get the thing started. I double checked if I was doing everything right and still couldn't get it to fire. After some checking I noticed there was fuel leaking out of the front bearing. I know that isn't normal, his car is brand new and this is the first tank of gas. Also, when I tried to turn the flywheel by hand, I had no luck. Could the front bearing be seized up already? Or is it just a bad one from the factory?

 

[Nitroaddict]

Originally posted by big kal
After some checking I noticed there was fuel leaking out of the front bearing. I know that isn't normal, his car is brand new and this is the first tank of gas. Also, when I tried to turn the flywheel by hand, I had no luck. Could the front bearing be seized up already? Or is it just a bad one from the factory?

have u pulled the mill out and tried turning it over? it may be that the piston is just stuck at TDC. my new CV-R leaked a bit out of the front bearing while breaking it in, but once it had broken in, that stopped.

 

[big kal]

No, I haven't tried that NA. If it is stuck up at TDC, do I just get a hair dryer to heat it up and loosen it up a little. Or what steps are necessary to help smooth out the break in process?

 

[Nitroaddict]

on a .12 - u should be able to get it loose just by turning the flywheel - easier to get a grip on it with the mill removed. if u still cannot get it - then yes the hairdryer trick will work great. i had this problem too on my new CV-R, but was able to jar it loose with my starter box.

 

[RobH]

I assume that means you cannot pull it over with the pull start? You said you can't move the fly wheel, but if it has a lot of compression you may not be able to. If it seems stuck like you guys said, just ignore me...

 

[big kal]

I can barely pull it with the pull start. I actually cut my knuckles on the cooling head trying to pull on it. I hope it's just stuck at TDC.

I just want to get my buddy's GT broken in. He's been wanting a nitro and I don't want him to get frustrated with it, being new to the hobby and all.

 

[militarymaxx]

Had the same problem with the tight fit in my new RB engine. The fit was so tight my starter box, with fully charged batteries wouldn't turn it through a full cycle. I had to pry on the flywheel a bit to rotate it through past TDC. It does get better once things get running and you cycle some fuel and heat through it. Also remember that when you are done running to rotate the piston to BDC. Don't let it stay TDC while it's cooling.

 

[El Pirata]

Just remember after the break in period all the fun you'll be having... You know like, breaking, fixing, breaking some more and fixing some more.....

 

[big kal]

I finally got the piston out of TDC. I basically took the head off and the glow plug out. I pushed the piston down. WIth the piston down I went and put in ARO to help lube the piston and sleeve. I'm ok with that now.

Now, I'm trying to start the engine and still can't get it started. I'm even getting blisters from the pull start. I have all the needles set at factory, new glow plug, glow heater is charged, and fuel is getting to the carb. Am I missing something?

 

[El Pirata]

Did you tighten everything down? Also you'll need to really work all the oil out, or at least most of it, of the cylinder before she'll fire.

Oh yeah, two stupid questions:

1. Fuel lines hooked up?

2. Fuel in the tank?

 

[Nitroaddict]

big kal - follow el p's directions, but also loosen the glow plug a lil. this will help relieve some compression, and help u get it up n running.

 

[RobH]

yeah, loosen the glow plug 1/4 of a turn. fire up the engine. tighten the glow plug!! don't forget to tighten it down.

Also when you break in an engine, the factory settings are rich rich rich. Therefore, starting the car will be hard with all that fuel in the carb. Try and give it a little throttle as you start it up. this will open the carb and add some air to mix and hence it should fire right up. let go of the throttle after she fires and do the break in.

don't forget to tighten down the plug as soon as it fires up!

 

[El Pirata]

Originally posted by Nitroaddict
big kal - follow el p's directions, but also loosen the glow plug a lil. this will help relieve some compression, and help u get it up n running.

I said something right? Holy cow!

 

[RobH]

oh yeah, someone once said that getting blister from your pull start means that you've popped your R/C cherry. I've never had any blisters though.

 

[Nitroaddict]

Originally posted by El Pirata
I said something right? Holy cow!

boggles the mind, doesn't it el?

 

[El Pirata]

You got that right.

 

[big kal]

I'll go ahead and try what El P and RobH. It's funny though, I've never had any problems with any other vehicles besides this one. Sucks to be at work when you have a brand new ride sitting at home waiting to be broken in.

 

[robriguez]

Not letting the pull cord go ALL the way back in helped alot with my new buggy. (left about 3-4 out before pulling again) this way I didnt keep scraping my knuckles.

 

[RobH]

big kal, my duratrax would not start for the longest time without giving it some throttle. i later found out that having to give it throttle to start it is a sign of a rich LSN setting. rich for break in is exactly what you want so having to give it some throttle is perfectly normal.

 

[El Pirata]

Originally posted by RobH
i later found out that having to give it throttle to start it is a sign of a rich LSN setting.

Not doubting you in any way but my 21 bb on my savage is a royal bitch to start without giving it throttle and I have the LSN set lower than the factory says you should set it (I have tried it at a lower/higher setting with the same results). The reason I set it so low is the off the line is at it's best at that setting.