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Break in problems

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chewyboy

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All right today i decided finally to break in the new .18 os engine. so i get out everthing i need including the temp gun, not the regular nitro engine checker, but one i use for smelting stuff, raytek raynger st4l. anyway the first problem came with getting the heat up on the engine. i was following this guide http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/article_display.cfm?article_id=397 it was 90 out today so no problem heating up right? well that was my first problem, i wrapped the engine with al foil and started her up. it would only get up to around 140, i wasn't going to beat on the engine but i did take it up to around 1/4 to 1/3 speed a couple times. anyway i run it like 4 times getting it up to that temp, and not wanting to hurt the engine i wasn't about to crank up the speed just yet. ok, so after those runs getting ready for 4 or 5 i forget, mother nature decided to open up on me so i gotta let it rest for the night.

ok, what do i need to do to get it up to 190, or could it be my temp gun. normally when i use it, it is very accurate. also will letting it rest overnight between runs hurt it or should i start the breakin process over from step 1 tomarrow? also any other things i might be forgetting would help out too.

thanks guys
 
How was it running at 140? I would think if it was up to max temp and still staying at 140 that it would be very rich and real "boggy". I would check the needle settings and since you said you had another temp gun compare the two.
 
Sounds like your doin fine.. Letting it sit overnight wont hurt, but getting your piston down to (BDC) Bottom Dead Center after your run, during cool down will help alot. If you remove your glowplug, turn your flywheel till you see the piston at it's lowest point in the case, then make a mark on your flywheel with a sharpie. After every run/tank, you should let it sit at BDC.
 
hey chewyboy, that is the same break in procedure I used as well. I would make sure that you have your needle settings in the right spot, becuase it sounds like ur running a little on the rich side...

Try to lean out your engine a bit and see if that makes a difference, then get your engine running about 190-200 degrees during break in for a couple if tanks...

***also remember to make sure that your piston is at BDC when cooling, otherwise the life of your engine will decrease dramatically***
 
ImBroken said:
Sounds like your doin fine.. Letting it sit overnight wont hurt, but getting your piston down to (BDC) Bottom Dead Center after your run, during cool down will help alot. If you remove your glowplug, turn your flywheel till you see the piston at it's lowest point in the case, then make a mark on your flywheel with a sharpie. After every run/tank, you should let it sit at BDC.

Correct me if I'm wrong but is'nt 140 a little low for everthing to "seat' properly? I've always heard that you need to get to around 200.
 
bashaholic said:
Correct me if I'm wrong but is'nt 140 a little low for everthing to "seat' properly? I've always heard that you need to get to around 200.

yea... 140 degrees is not hot enough for the piston and sleeve to expand to the right size, which doesn't allow it to break in fully...

But then again, you dont want it to much higher than 200 degrees otherwise it will expand to far, and doesn't break in the parts properly.
 
Sorry, yes, you will want to get the temp up a bit higher for the rest of the breakin.. On the first tank, it's rare to be able to lean it out enough to get those temps, & still keep it running..
 
thanks for the info, i'll mess with the needle settings a little more tomarrow. i have made sure that the piston at the bottom or the crank is bdc after each time i ran it and is currently. I'll lean it out a bit to see if i can get the temps up to around 190 or so and do a few of the 3 min runs. I'd rather do a few extra short runs at the right temps over actually hurting the engine.

thanks much guys for the help.
 
one more quick q, where is the best place to grab the temp from? i've been taking it from basically the glow plug, but if it is better to take it from somewhere else like near the exhaust or elsewhere please let me know.

thanks
 
chewyboy said:
one more quick q, where is the best place to grab the temp from? i've been taking it from basically the glow plug, but if it is better to take it from somewhere else like near the exhaust or elsewhere please let me know.

thanks

You still want to take the temp at the glow plug, but if you have a laser temp gun, try to get the opposite side from the exhaust, or right at the pin.

Also, you shouldn't put aluminum foil around your heatsink.
Thats usually done in the colder months.
If you want to make it easier to start, use a heat gun or hair dryer on the engine case for a couple of minutes.

It was already advised to lean it out a bit.
Do this in 1/16 of a turn incraments.
You will see the temp come up as you lean it out.
Good luck
 
I had the same thing with my 2 OS 21 RG's, OS 18 cv-r(x) and my 2 OS 15 cv-r(x)'s. By tank 2 or three, the temps came up to around 200 though and I didn't have any problems from there on. I leaned them out a bit after tank one. I used a break in process that I wrote up after reading a few of other peoples.

On both OS 21's and 15's, I got over 9 gallons out of the engines before requiring a pinch or rebuild. The OS 18 I never ran more than 20 tanks through it. I sold the truck it was in around tank 15. Now the engine is in a baggie all AR oiled waiting for me to by a 1/10 something again.


My break in process:
I use the heat cycle method with all my engines. It takes a couple hours and about 10 - 12 tanks of fuel before it’s tuned for good performance. You should have a temp gun.

Some engines take a gallon or more before they are completely broken in and you start realizing the kind of power they produce. While others only take a quart.

First, pull out the glow plug and slowly rotate the flywheel until you know the piston is at the bottom of the stroke(This is known as BDC). Mark the flywheel with a dot of fingernail polish or a permanent marker so you know where it's at what at BDC without having to pull out the plug.

Also, I always use Trinity MHP 20%/12% oil in all my engines. It's been the most consistent for me. I’ve used Blue Thunder 20%, Wildcat Eliminator 20%/16% oil, Byron 20% and Trinity MHP 20%/12% oil.

Tank 1
You want it to run rich and with most engines the temps will range from 120-180 in the first tank. All you do is let it idle through the tank with the wheels off the ground giving the throttle an occasional blip to keep it from loading up too bad. When it runs out of fuel, position the flywheel so the piston is at BDC. Let the engine cool to ambient temps before you fire it back up.

Tank 2
You should start driving it on concrete or pavement of some sort in large figure 8's. Your not only breaking in the engine, your breaking in the driveline as well. You shouldn't get above 1/2 throttle through this tank. Start leaning the High Speed Needle about half way through the tank. You should be able to get to 160 - 180 or so by the time the tank is empty. Again, when it runs out of fuel, put the piston at BDC and let it cool to ambient temps.

Tank 3
Do the same as tank 2. Keep leaning a little bit to get the temps up. A good operating temp range for most engines is between 210 and 260. By the end of tank 3, you should be getting up to 200 or so. Again, when it runs out of fuel, put the piston at BDC and let it cool to ambient temps.

Tank 4 - 5
You should start leaning it to get the temps up above 210. If at any point in time, your temps spike up over 260, you got some issues or your being to aggressive with your leaning of the needles. Normally, as the tank empties to about ¼ tank, I refill while it’s running and keep it running. Through tanks 4 and 5, you can start opening up the throttle a little more to about ¾ for a couple seconds at a time. You still don’t want to peg the throttle. That comes later… After tank 5 empties, put the piston at BDC and let it cool to ambient temps.

Tank 6 – 9
I normally keep it running through these 3 tanks of fuel. All the while leaning a little bit every tank. Make sure your temps are within the safe range. By tank 8, you should be able to hit WOT for short 2 second bursts. After tank 9 empties, put the piston at BDC and let it cool to ambient temps.

Tanks 10 on up
Keep an eye on the temps. Nitro engines don’t like to be held wide open for extended periods of time. They are built for high RPM’s, but can’t withstand them for too long without overheating or causing some damage. Putting your piston at BDC every time you shut it down will help prolong the life of the engine. Keeping the air filter clean will also help. Keep the temps above 210 and below 270 and your engine will reward you with a long life and as much power as it will give you. Also, if your going to store the vehicle for more than a couple days, a few drops of after run oil will help keep corrosion down and again, will help extend the life of the engine.

This is how I break mine in and I get typically over 9 gallons of life out of my engines.
 
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the only thing I have to say to add to the above is
GET IT UP TO 200 ASAP......
the Piston / sleeve do not start to mate until the metals are around 200.....anything (significanly less) than 200 and you are pounding the piston head into a tapered hole....causing the sleeve to have a lower "compression ring" beat into it.....this is probably thte most critical time in break in........and it can leave you w/ a sleeve not quite right...still works but not to it's full potential........
 
Update: well i figured out a lot of my problems today. i decided that i would check to see if factory specs were actually set on the motor. well the needle valve was turned out 4 1/2 turnes, yeah a bit rich. I also had to turn down the fule misture valve 90 deg and everything was butter at that point. i ran through the entire process like i linked to. anyway so far i'm pleased with the engine and i'll keep an eye out on it for a while now and keep tuning accordingly. thanks again for all the help.
 
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