Brand new Enslave .28 3-SPD - Many problems! Noob here!

[krzysiek]

Hey guys,

I just recently purchased a Brand New Nitro R/C monster truck. I have been having quite a few problems with it so far, which is quite disappointing, it being the very first day that i've had it.
However, it was most likely due to some mistake made on my part, not the actual car itself being faulty.

At first i had trouble even starting the car, ended up that i had flooded it. So i unscrewed the glow heater, and used the pull starter to empty out the fuel in there. Eventually i got it to start, but i didn't have it tuned or anything, and as soon as it started it was going nuts, full ball.. had to cover the exhaust to force it to turn off as pinching the fuel line made it worse, i read that pinching it turns it off somewhere on the net.. meh.

So, i kinda figured that part out..got it tuned a little so that when it started it didn't go full ball, but just idled and didn't move..just right. However, it would usually die pretty quickly, like it could stay on for a bit, maybe a good 30-40 seconds, but eventually.. it would just die. If i tried giving it some gas, BANG - die straight away again. I tried this numerous times, trying to give it to heat up properly, etc.. but it still just wouldn't work, rather it just died all the time.

I then noticed that there was some fuel coming out the exhaust, i assume that this is just excess fuel or something, maybe from it not being tuned (problem above?) causing it to spit the excess fuel out..seems logical. But get this, the pull starter also seems to be leaking..not much, but its evident that there is fuel coming out of somewhere, as i finish wiping any fuel off, after a few unsuccessful pull-starts i notice there is more fuel there again. Is this usual, or have i received a faulty pull started out the box?

Now lastly, in a final attempt before giving up for the day, i went for my last pull-start, low and behold.. the string snaps. Yay! Now i'm left with the pull starter handle.. and the string thats obviously gone into the hole of the pull starter. Do i need to go and buy a brand new pull starter? I'm thinking just to unscrew it, pull the string back out, and retie it to the handle again..sounds good to me, what do you guys think?

Thanks alot for reading, really. I appreciate any help given, as i just spent what seems like a fortune for something that clearly doesn't seem to work for me I know its not the car, and that it's most likely me being a complete noob to all this, so no flames please

 

[thekonz]

Ok. One it sounds like you are running too rich and that is causing the fuel to come out of the exhaust, and also thru the mill(engine) into the pull starter. I would suggest taking the pull starter off, but be careful to the direction of the OWB(one way bearing) and then you can pull the pull started apart and try to rewind the cord and then you are going to have to rewind the coil and put the pull starter back together. here is a good article on how to do that http://www.rccaraction.com/online_ex/recoil_2.asp. Now with the fuel leaking i would try setting everything back to stock, if you know what they were at or what the manual says they were at and then tuning from there. second i would also recomend you read the manual about breaking in your mill and use the search function on the website for some help too. Also i would look and read this stuff https://www.rcnitrotalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7217. ok if you have any more questions just shoot and we shall answer.

 

[raaazzzeee]

ok it sounds like your LSN (low speed needil) is way way too rich i had the same problem due to faulty instructions. It made the car bog when i gave it gas gas was spitting out the exaust, and it was so hard to start Because it basically flodded itself that i got blisters from the pull starter. and you said it stayed on when you pinche dthe fuel line? thats just another sign so rotate the screw right to lean it.

 

[Cupooterluvr]

I had the exact same problem with mine during break in. I think it's either WAY too rich or way too lean on one or both of the needles. From the fuel sptting from the exhaust, it sounds like it's too rich. Screw your LSN in a half turn, this should cause it to stop spitting or at least spit less fuel. It should also stop the dying problem when you give it gas. If not, I'm stumped.

 

[racing revo #21]

Once youve done the above and got it running. I would suggest getting a temp gun. When you are temping you wnt to temp at the glow plug and should keep it running at about 200 210 degrees. If its running to cool lean it out (right turn) If running to hot richen it up (left turn) You want to tune by hours just like a clock (yes that little turn does alot) please dont turn more than that. And one last thing...... Dont get it to hot!

 

[krzysiek]

Wow, thanks alot for the replies guys!

Sorry for checking back so late, after seeing that i got no replies from other forums i guess i just gave up with expecting some advice online, but then i came here and bam, i had some people helping!

I also got blisters from the pull started being bogged, its actually quite funny to me, because your case (2-3rd post below my first one) sounds exactly like mine, with the blisters, being bogged, fuel spitting.

Right now i need to quickly go out, but as soon as I'm back I'm going to read the manual and try find the LSN, because i know where the HSN is, thats the one near the main fuel intake on the carby, but havnt gotten around to finding the smaller one or the low speed one. Once i find that, ill screw around with it a bit and see what happens.

Just to let you know, being a first time R/C car enthusiast i did not remember to see exactly how many turns my HSN is supposed to be turned out from stock, but I'm sure it will give me some sort of idea in the manual.

 

[raaazzzeee]

if you have a slide carb you LSN will be on the part that attaches to the servo that goes in and out and has a rubber cover boot like thing. like i posted before i hade the same problem you LSN is way too rich trust me. mine was 5 turns too rich and that was at factory specs

 

[Cupooterluvr]

Wow, thanks alot for the replies guys!

Sorry for checking back so late, after seeing that i got no replies from other forums i guess i just gave up with expecting some advice online, but then i came here and bam, i had some people helping!

I also got blisters from the pull started being bogged, its actually quite funny to me, because your case (2-3rd post below my first one) sounds exactly like mine, with the blisters, being bogged, fuel spitting.

Right now i need to quickly go out, but as soon as I'm back I'm going to read the manual and try find the LSN, because i know where the HSN is, thats the one near the main fuel intake on the carby, but havnt gotten around to finding the smaller one or the low speed one. Once i find that, ill screw around with it a bit and see what happens.

Just to let you know, being a first time R/C car enthusiast i did not remember to see exactly how many turns my HSN is supposed to be turned out from stock, but I'm sure it will give me some sort of idea in the manual.

These settings are for a .21 engine. Though, they're mostly the same anyways.

Here's a cheat sheet. I used it to tune my engine.
http://www.hpiracing.com/graphics/instr/1801-1.jpg

Here's the site it's from if you need more help:
http://www.hpiracing.com/instructions/index.htm#Nitro Star Engines

Hope it helps!

P.S. My car still does the throttle bog dying thing. I need to lean it out. Also, if you order a new starter cord, take the string out and tie a bigger knot in the end that is inside the spool. It'll prevent a lot of problems later on. I know from experience. I broke the one that came stock, ordered a new one. The knot at the end was too small so it slipped through the hole and I had to rewind it. I tied a bigger knot that time and haven't had problems since.

 

[krzysiek]

Thanks for the replies thus far. Back home now, going to go and screw around with it for a bit, hopefully adjust that LSN around and see what i can get it to do.

I'll report back in not too long!

Hey guys,

So i found the LSN, well i think it's the LSN and well, i turned it in a bit and guess what, much easier to turn on and it staying on idle without a problem!

WOOT!

So, now tis running idle well and nps, but how do i know that the screw does not need to be screwed in more/less? Do i just need to test it myself, and feel it? How do i know its too lean, as i dont want to screw up my engine right away either?

One thing i did notice is that, the join where the exhaust pipe is connected to the engine, it's obviously just attached to the engine and not air tight, i notice that a little bit of fuel seems to spit out from the join between the exhaust engine, its not alot, not is it a worrying amount, just wondering if its usual to have to fuel spitting out from there though? May that be a sign that its still too rich?

The car still seems to bog down when i try give it some more gas, in an attempt to ride it, so what could that be? Too rich, too lean, etc ?

The HSP, or the big needle right next to the intake on the carby, should that be turned at all for idle effect, or is that purely for high RPM/high speed effect?

Thanks!

 

[Karl M]

Your exhaust coupling should be held on with some zip ties and be air tight, it also sounds like you are still a little rich. You might want to consider putting some rtv around your carb and on the back plate of the engine, it will cut down on chasing the right setting and the mess.

 

[krzysiek]

Oh, the coupling is held on with the cable ties, what i meant was like, the pipe that joins directly out of the engine, where the engines exhaust meets with the exhaust pipe.

Got it working, nearly actually got it to drive but it died because i was just out of petrol. Went to refil it, but my starter snapped again, this time i wasn't angry though. I saw it coming, as when i took it apart the string was very damp in the nitro and i knew sooner than later it would weaken it and snap anyway. I'm just happy i've got the hard part fixed. My rotostart should be coming tomorrow or the next day, which means time for me to start it again, this time with ease, and to test it out! can't wait. Answers to my above questions are still very much appreciated!

 

[raaazzzeee]

your too rich. you can test yourself by pinching the fuel line it should spee up fo 2-3 seconds then shut off. if it takes longer its too rich if it just cuts right off its too lean.

 

[thekonz]

I would suggest you work out the HSN first and get it tuned to where there should be a pretty constant trail of smoke. So right now I would lean out the engine because it sounds like you are running rich just like the fellas above have said and once you get the HSN worked out then work on the LSN. Always should do the HSN first becaue that's where the big jumps are and then I would work on the LSN. You can also watch this to help you out. [ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oSmMzpZM_As"]YouTube - Nitro RC Tuning 1[/ame]

 

[krzysiek]

I did the HSN first now, put it in a bit and its leaner now! I actually turned the car on and ran it! Its not run it fully yet, so i wont tune it yet but it's fun to just drive around for the first time.

One thing i am a bit concerned about is, where the engine meets the exhaust, like around the pull starter, fuel seems to slowly spit out a little out of the join where the exhaust and engine join. Is this normal for it to be releasing some fuel, possibly still too rich on the LSN?

 

[Candyman]

If you're leaking fuel from the header/crankcase junction, I'd try to reseat the header. I assume it's held on with a big spring? Just take a moment to make sure the header is pushed all the way on. They typically fit tight and have a rubber gasket to keep them sealed. My concern would be that if there's a little leak, it could potentially affect your tuning. For now it's probably harmless, but better safe than sorry.

 

[krzysiek]

Yes, better to be safe than sorry!

Well, there is a big spring going all around the engine thats holding the exhaust onto the engine. Its holding on well, however its obviously not air tight or liquid tight, as some spits out. There is also nothing over it sealing it.

Perhaps later i will take a picture to show you guys what i mean.

Lastly, can you please tell me what you mean by reseating the header, and how its done?

Thanks alot!

 

[EMPERORLAY]

I said forget my pull starter after it snapped and I got a starter box. It makes starting the engine and tuning it a lot easier:yes:

 

[krzysiek]

Yeh, I'm getting a starter box/rotor starter in the mail in a few days. Public holiday today and post doesn't get delivered weekends so i'm waiting until Monday. For now i got some decent string/rope, and going to use that as a pull start for now.

Tuned the car a little, got it to do monos when taking off! Pretty awesome, but it just shut off on me after riding it for a few minutes while it was idling, so i went to re adjust the screws again LSN/HSN but i think it was just the idle settings on my remote that control how open the throttle is on idle.

 

[thekonz]

Well, just make sure its running at the right temp and that you break it in right and all should be well.

 

[krzysiek]

You wouldnt believe it .. went up a curb and i see that my front left tyre seems to have..detached.I thought maybe just one of the metal things that holds it all together came undone and had to be put back into position, but it turns out the axle snapped/cracked right where the wheel was attached, and the whole tyre was snapped off. Used some steel type of glue to glue it back together and it seems to be working well so far, but I'm very disappointed that it broke already, not even being used intensely.