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GAJ
RCTalk Qualifier
HSN - high speed needle. This is the one that sits above the fuel line input to the carb.
Have you read your manual? Have you searched "tuning" on this site? I recommend you do both.
Your temps indicate that you are too rich, but you can run into hesitation at full throttle if you are too lean.
You need to be careful, and have a good understanding of what is going on.
Have you read your manual? Have you searched "tuning" on this site? I recommend you do both.
Your temps indicate that you are too rich, but you can run into hesitation at full throttle if you are too lean.
You need to be careful, and have a good understanding of what is going on.
ninnon
Hardcore RCTalk User
The HSN turned clockwise. Do so in 1/8th increments. But I'd recommend just reading the guide Rolex posted above.
What are your ambient temps and are you getting the engine wet with snow or water at all?
Jase125
RCTalk Member
- Thread starter
- #7
Past week or 2 the temperature has dropped outside last week was -6° here this week it's not to bad about 8-10° but I never run it in that sort of freezing weather... just got the temp gun on it and can't seem to get it any more then 60-70°? Bogs out top end.
GAJ
RCTalk Qualifier
Wrap the cooling head with tin foil, see if this brings the temps up. Keep an eye on it though.
Are you spewing raw fuel out the pipe at idle or at throttle? What are your temps at idle? Do they climb as it sits there?
Are you spewing raw fuel out the pipe at idle or at throttle? What are your temps at idle? Do they climb as it sits there?
Don't know if you're talking centigrade or Fahrenheit. 60-70 is NOT going to run well. You might also wrap an infant sock around the head for additional insulation to get it closer to good operating temperature.
If your running in wet conditions, don't use a baby sock as it will just get wet and hold the cold water on the head.
For snow running, I made rubber wraps that are about 1.5 inches wide to block most of the air flow through the cooling fins. The rubber doesn't hold water like a sock and doesn't rattle/cause interference like tin-foil might do.
I used to use a piece of rubber ziptied to the head:
Then I took it a step further and made the strip long enough to wrap the head and overlap itself. Then I sanded where the two ends overlap and use CA glue and a clamp overnight to bond it. When I overlapped it, I made a mark so I could then glue it to be a bit smaller in diameter so I'd ahve to stretch it a bit to fit over the head. This keeps it on the head without a ziptie and makes it easier to slide it up or down the head to block the fins that get air or down so it can run a bit cooler.
This band was a bit narrow, but it still did it's job pretty well.
For snow running, I made rubber wraps that are about 1.5 inches wide to block most of the air flow through the cooling fins. The rubber doesn't hold water like a sock and doesn't rattle/cause interference like tin-foil might do.
I used to use a piece of rubber ziptied to the head:
Then I took it a step further and made the strip long enough to wrap the head and overlap itself. Then I sanded where the two ends overlap and use CA glue and a clamp overnight to bond it. When I overlapped it, I made a mark so I could then glue it to be a bit smaller in diameter so I'd ahve to stretch it a bit to fit over the head. This keeps it on the head without a ziptie and makes it easier to slide it up or down the head to block the fins that get air or down so it can run a bit cooler.
This band was a bit narrow, but it still did it's job pretty well.
ninnon
Hardcore RCTalk User
It's just not going to run well at all in those temperatures. I'd wait for it to warm up. When it is colder the plastic is more brittle so that means it is more likely to crack or get damaged in a crash.
Running cold AND wet isn't good for ANYTHING, not even your nose.
