Best fan heat sinks??

[Grandad]

But surely there is a differance between a quick 15min bash and an hour or so. It stands to reason that the car will be running much hotter.

 

[Daskraut]

What car is this in? Could it be a simple pinion change or use a lower voltage battery?
Do you know what temps the motor is hitting?
I don't have a source on a good 36mm fan mount. I use a heat sink on a few of my cars, and they do work, I just like seeing my electronics a little cooler so some run heatsinks some don't.
Heat sinks have worked for me, so have the fans, I end up removing the fans after I find the sweetspot in gearing.

It is for a Traxxas Raptor R, my other main RC is an SC10 pro4, both of which are known for running hot.

 

[TeknoJ]

It is for a Traxxas Raptor R, my other main RC is an SC10 pro4, both of which are known for running hot.

Easy answer. Ditch the Traxxas electronics. I bet an rcjuice motor would run a lot cooler with a lot more power

 

[DavidB1126]

I bet an rcjuice motor would run a lot cooler with a lot more power

Yep
Or Hobbywing 3660 or 3665

 

[BustedAw11]

Or spend 15 on a fan, fix the issue and send it....

Of course they run hot... they all run hot box stock. I said this...

 

[Slick2500]

The point of thermal paste is not to remove the air but to conduct heat between the motor and the heat sink. Otherwise you could use vaseline lol

I try telling them that all they did was coated their motor in liquid blanket.

 

[Slick2500]

Yeah, very serious. Now I am referring to the motor here. There is a right combo out there for just about any rig for it to run cool without fans. It all comes down to final drive ratio, weight, tire diameters, terrain, etc. If you're needing a fan on your motor, you're not running the optimal setup for your situation, simple as that.

That being said, for example your rig's weight might be so heavy, their isn't a possibility for an optimal setup do to available space, motor mount, etc. In that situation, yeah, a fan might help. But how much is that fan actually helping considering your car is driving more air across that motor just by simply driving it?

Or you might be trying to push every bit you can out of your RC, as I mentioned speed runners do.

I've been running RC's since I was a kid. Over 40 years now. I have never once added a motor fan to any of my RC's. Maybe it's because I don't push my RC's to the limit. 50mph for a 1/10 scale basher is more than enough for me. Anything beyond that is just ridiculous.

But yeah, you don't need them.

Our Kraton 6s v3 is running a 20t pinion (stock is 15t). It hits 70+mph easily with the addition of nearly every M2C aluminum upgrade there is. In grass the motor gets up to around 170°F if ran hard. There is the stock fan on the ESC, but nothing on the motor. It does just fine. I have about 40 other RC's right now with no motor fans on any of them.
View attachment 239557

How the heck are you running a 20T pinion on the stock motor and esc in that truck and not killing it? Like seriously I want to know. Stock was 12 speed pinion is 16t. 16t in mine the motor would hit 180* after a few minutes. 13t was the highest I could go stock without the motor getting too hot. The setup I have now I might hit 170* after 15-20 minutes of hard running in 90*+ temps.

 

[Slick2500]

This thread is discussing a motor fan bro

Eh you said fans. And I am a firm believer in cooler temps = happier electronics.

 

[DavidB1126]

How the heck are you running a 20T pinion on the stock motor and esc in that truck and not killing it? Like seriously I want to know. Stock was 12 speed pinion is 16t. 16t in mine the motor would hit 180* after a few minutes. 13t was the highest I could go stock without the motor getting too hot. The setup I have now I might hit 170* after 15-20 minutes of hard running in 90*+ temps.

 

[Slick2500]

Must be some sort of magic because the BLX185 is already at it's limits in stock configuration. I don't know of anyone else that has been successful in getting much past 16T stock. without having heat issues. Then to top it off he has those M2C parts adding additional weight. He must have hit the esc motor lottery.

 

[DavidB1126]

In my Typhon 6s with stock motor and esc although only plan on running 4s rn running stock 16T but I got the "speed" 20T in my cart for the future. My buddy gave me a heatsink and fan although the fan wire broke so I took it off. Build close to running but haven't tested it yet.

 

[WickedFog]

How the heck are you running a 20T pinion on the stock motor and esc in that truck and not killing it? Like seriously I want to know. Stock was 12 speed pinion is 16t. 16t in mine the motor would hit 180* after a few minutes. 13t was the highest I could go stock without the motor getting too hot. The setup I have now I might hit 170* after 15-20 minutes of hard running in 90*+ temps.

It's what the guy said he had in it when I traded him for it for the Pro Boat Blackjack I won from Horizon. To be honest I've never done a thing to the truck but drive it. Maybe he told me wrong, I don't really know. But my point is, it gets driven hard through grass with no heat issues.

To each their own. But like I said, I have been in this hobby a long time, and never once have I ran into a situation where I needed to install a motor fan to make the electronics happy.

 

[fstnd]

I try telling them that all they did was coated their motor in liquid blanket.

A blanket isolates you. Certain "liquids" are made to conduct heat. Even water works. When boats are picking up water, it's actually meant to cool the motor, not to make it hotter.
Try running a CPU without thermal paste, I mean blanket, and monitor the temps

 

[WickedFog]

A blanket isolates you. Certain "liquids" are made to conduct heat. Even water works. When boats are picking up water, it's actually meant to cool the motor, not to make it hotter.
Try running a CPU without thermal paste, I mean blanket, and monitor the temps

It would definitely help transfer the heat, especially if using one of those large heatsinks that cover a large area of the motor. Even heat sinks in industrial applications are held on with thermal paste.

 

[Slick2500]

A blanket isolates you. Certain "liquids" are made to conduct heat. Even water works. When boats are picking up water, it's actually meant to cool the motor, not to make it hotter.
Try running a CPU without thermal paste, I mean blanket, and monitor the temps

No these dudes were just caking it on and at that point it is now an insulator and not a heat conductor.

-edit- or they were using it to fill in the gaps between the fins on the ribbed motor cans

 

[fstnd]

Yeah well it's only purpose is to link the motor with the cooler There isn't much clearance between a heat sink and the motor can so you definetely don't need that much

 

[Slick2500]

Yeah well it's only purpose is to link the motor with the cooler There isn't much clearance between a heat sink and the motor can so you definetely don't need that much

Yup was literally oozing out the side lol and I'm just like smh.

 

[Slick2500]

It's what the guy said he had in it when I traded him for it for the Pro Boat Blackjack I won from Horizon. To be honest I've never done a thing to the truck but drive it. Maybe he told me wrong, I don't really know. But my point is, it gets driven hard through grass with no heat issues.

To each their own. But like I said, I have been in this hobby a long time, and never once have I ran into a situation where I needed to install a motor fan to make the electronics happy.

Been in the hobby for 40 years and you just go off someone's word on a used rc? You sir are a braver man than I am. I don't care where the car came from or if it is brand new or used I go through them with a fine toothed comb while doing a complete teardown and rebuild but then again I trust people like I trust a fart after eating Taco Bell.

 

[RustyUs]

It is for a Traxxas Raptor R, my other main RC is an SC10 pro4, both of which are known for running hot.

Yes, Team Associated did not go the extra mile to make their heavier 4wd SCT/MT RTRs great. People get huge capacity batteries to keep the fun going and then get upset when things go a bit haywire. Those 540/3650/3652 sized 3300kv motors have been a staple in Associated's 2wd platforms since the beginning of brushless offerings. For a couple dollars more, a 550/3656 would have been the better choice IMO... especially the Rival MT10. But, gearing can make anything possible... within reason.

Adapt and overcome.

 

[WickedFog]

Been in the hobby for 40 years and you just go off someone's word on a used rc? You sir are a braver man than I am. I don't care where the car came from or if it is brand new or used I go through them with a fine toothed comb while doing a complete teardown and rebuild but then again I trust people like I trust a fart after eating Taco Bell.

Yup. I trusted the guy because after talking with him, he was as smart as I am, with like interests. Great guy. So no need to fix what ain't broke. But basically - I simply don't care about it, because it's just an Arrma, and I have much more important things that need attention. It's basically my kids toy. If it breaks, I'll fix it. Like right now, it needs a simple repair after a head on collision with a tree by a neighborhood kid who couldn't drive. We brought it inside and threw it under a table to work on later. I can knock out that repair in a few minutes next time he wants to drive it. But back on topic. This thread isn't about my Kraton