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best beginner buggy

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Honestly, I'd tell you to just get a Associated, Schumacher, or XRay kit. Pretty much anything else will save a little money up front, but you'll just end up upgrading. An if you decide it isn't your thing, they are also the only ones you'll be able to sell for any real return on your investment.
 
Can't go wrong with a Associated. Either used B6.3/.4, or new B7. If you do go with the B7, I'm not sure what AE is doing about the 5 gear transmission but if it comes with it I would opt for the new 3 gear conversion, 3 gear is better, atleast for stock racing. Parts, support and quality is on point.

Also can't go wrong with Xray (XB2/XB4), Kyosho (Latest is the RB7.5), Schumacher (LD3/CAT-PB), or Yokomo (SO3.0/MO3.0).
Schumacher won the 2wd buggy worlds this year btw 😉
Tekno also has a 1/10 platform for 4wd, EB410.2, although it is a bit outdated and Tekno doesn't have a national/world following in 1/10, I do see some people run them for club racing with no issues.

Associated is probably best for the price for the support especially for a beginner. Lots of people run AE. But if the local guys at your track use something different or the hobby shop stocks a different brand, can't go wrong with any brand tbh.

Edit: What I said above is more towards 2WD buggy. 4WD buggy could be a different story. I have a B74.1 (I personally started out with racing with this kit) and it's a beast. Even used B74.2s are still pretty good as well. New new 4WD kits is where stuff gets to get pricey. Especially with the B84 and I heard some people are snapping chassis but Associated is most likely working on fixing it by now.
 
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DavidB1126 said:
Can't go wrong with a Associated. Either used B6.3/.4, or new B7. If you do go with the B7, I'm not sure what AE is doing about the 5 gear transmission but if it comes with it I would opt for the new 3 gear conversion, 3 gear is better, atleast for stock racing. Parts, support and quality is on point.

Also can't go wrong with Xray, Kyosho, Schumacher, or Yokomo.
Schumacher won the 2wd buggy worlds this year btw 😉

Associated is probably best for the price for the support especially for a beginner. Lots of people run AE. But if the local guys at your track use something different or the hobby shop stocks a different brand, can't go wrong with any brand tbh.

Edit: What I said above is more towards 2WD buggy. 4WD buggy could be a different story. I have a B74.1 (I personally started out with racing with this kit) and it's a beast. Even used B74.2s are still pretty good as well. New new 4WD kits is where stuff gets to get pricey. Especially with the B84 and I heard some people are snapping chassis but Associated is probably working on fixing it currently.
Click to expand...
thank you for the information
 
Cheetah928 said:
Associated RB10? About as beginner as you can get and can probably be modded a little for carpet. I've got one, it runs up to 3s, is RTR, and is simple to work on. The front suspension arms suck but I'm getting upgraded ones
Click to expand...
True. RB10 is a pretty good car. Although with rear motor it might be a handful on carpet. You'd want Mid Motor. it will make it alot easier to drive and more centralized weight and more steering. Although carpet and rear motor is possible, id go with thicker oil in the diff and possibly mod some sway bars on there. Some shock tuning aswell. I'm building a Rustler race project, staying with rear motor for now until I cave in on converting it to Mid. Ill see what I can do to get it driving better. On the lipos, Zeee packs are "ok" for a low powered car that doesn't take that much load. Ok for bashing or just driving around but not really good for racing where you need a consistent pack. SMC and CNHL are my top picks for cheaper/budget brands although really good performance. Only bc cheaper cells like Zeee, the cells just can't handle the load of high powered brushless systems and usually come out of the box with a quite high IR. From my experiences, could just be defects but... 🤷‍♂️ 🤔 On my race rustler in the works I run cheap Zeee packs. I just turn off my LVC so it doesn't cut out in the middle of a race due to voltage sag/drop (poor cells like I was talking about) Theres a couple channels over on the YT that explains it deeper, I think RCExplained is one and RC Street Wars, with the RC Dyno is another. And @Greywolf74 on here ;)
 
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My last day at the track (Indoor glued clay) I was racing both my 20 year old Losi XXX-BK2 and my RC10B7D. Both with 21.5 motors and geared with mathematically identical final drive ratios. Five gear layout transmission vs. three gear, and mid mount vs. rear mount. Both running on JConcepts slicks in silver compound. The B7 was easier to drive and I was more consistent lap to lap. But my top three laps with the XXX were a full half second faster.

I could pull wheelies with the XXX and had to be much more careful with the throttle. But I also had a far easier time clearing the second triple jump on the track. It was after the first triple with a medium speed tight-ish sweeper turn between them. Plenty of grunt to just shoot it no matter what with the XXX. The B7 needed you to corner at near roll-over speed and gently lay on the throttle after the apex to clear it. If you don't make a great landing off the first jump, you have to take it as a double single or risk crashing. Both at the front of the straight where you really want to carry as much speed as possible.

At the end of the day the XXX felt more on the edge, but faster if you could corral it.

Edit: Tight track with most 21.5 cars turning about 12 second laps. So half a second is a lot.
 
Oh...and I'm totally buying a 3 gear transmission kit when I get to the track tomorrow. AE issued the part number, and I am certain the track will have some in the first batch that ships. I'm not sure when they are supposed to arrive, but it should give me some of that grunt back.
 
All the major brands make good buggies, I would see what brands your local track actually stocks parts for. Also what brands are popular at your track. That way you can fix what ever you might break while still at the track. And you can get some setup of advice from others running similar buggies, till you get a better understanding of how changes affects the car. Nothing wrong with getting a used ones, it usually saves you some money. I picked up a used B6.4 last year for $350 with electronics. Let us know what you end up with.
 
hood52 said:
All the major brands make good buggies, I would see what brands your local track actually stocks parts for. Also what brands are popular at your track. That way you can fix what ever you might break while still at the track. And you can get some setup of advice from others running similar buggies, till you get a better understanding of how changes affects the car. Nothing wrong with getting a used ones, it usually saves you some money. I picked up a used B6.4 last year for $350 with electronics. Let us know what you end up with.
Click to expand...
Lots of ppl here buy and sell used RCs that are in fine shape and are super savings compared to new.
I have had some success, some fails on thebay... not sure I'd send a new buyer there unless someone really knows what they are buying.

I have had good and bad luck buying used. 😉

I bought a B6.3 not long ago in pretty much new condition along with an RC10 LC that was pretty close to new too. Both 'carpet only' cars.
Buying a used car from someone at the track is also not a bad idea. Most racers spend a fairba amount of time and money building and maintaining their race cars so they can win on race day too.

I bought a Tomahawk that was never even finished being built and got a crazy deal on it too! 😍❤️😎

I would recommend that whatever you are looking at, take a few to post about it here BEFORE you buy it!!!
I have seen a few ppl buy cars that have parts avail issues or simply don't handle well and aren't great cars for the track.
Best to avoid regret!

If you find a good used buggy, you will save a ton of money and still have a great car to learn, bash, crash and love. 👍😁😎
 
Cheetah928 said:
Associated RB10? About as beginner as you can get and can probably be modded a little for carpet. I've got one, it runs up to 3s, is RTR, and is simple to work on. The front suspension arms suck but I'm getting upgraded ones
Click to expand...
Lots of Factory Team parts too if you want to upgrade it
 
I wonder if you can use RB10 parts and transmission and stuff on a B5M chassis to convert it to Mid. 🤔
But at that point it would be better just to get an actual B5M or a modern mid motor kit on that fact. Or could possibly Dremel and mod the stock RB10 plastic chassis or use one of the SR/DR10M kit chassis. 🤔🤷
Beer_Goggles_RC said:
Lots of Factory Team parts too if you want to upgrade it
Click to expand...
 
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DavidB1126 said:
I wonder if you can use RB10 parts and transmission and stuff on a B5M chassis to convert it to Mid. 🤔
But at that point it would be better just to get an actual B5M or a modern mid motor kit on that fact. Or could possibly Dremel and mod the stock RB10 plastic chassis or use one of the SR/DR10M kit chassis. 🤔🤷
Click to expand...
I've been looking for MM kits for my DR10 but no luck. If I can find one then I'd imagine it would have no problem swapping to the RB10. Maybe I'll look at the B5M chassis and see
 

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