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Axial Capra refresh, need advice.

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Mrgoodwrench35

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RC Driving Style
  1. Bashing
  2. Crawling
I recently decided to try my hand at airbrushing RC bodies. Definately a learning curve but I'm getting there. I did a set of Capra body panels and when I put them on, I realized that I'd been beating on this capra for a few years now with little to no maintenance and the new panels reminded me of that old saying 'putting lipstick on a pig' so I decided to tear it down and give it some needed attention. I removed the cage and electronics, opened up, cleaned, and lubed the diffs and bearings. To my suprise, there was very little wear to the diffs and none of the bearings were hurt. It doesn't really get wet but I was still suprised. I guess I'm used to Traxxas factory bearings 😂.

The first time I built this kit, I opted not to include the interior. This time, it seemed fitting to practice my airbrushing on it so I did, it turned out pretty well. However, when I installed the interior I discovered clearance issues with the ESC. I'm using a Castle Copperhead combo which works great but doesn't fit all that well which brings me to my question. Where and how are you guys mounting your ESC? I've tried every position I can think of and the only way I can see to make it fit, at least with the factory fan still attached, is to cut a small section of the rear of the interior out between the seats to let the fan stick through.

What are some other mods you crawler guys would recommend? I have a set of 2.2's, treal front portal housings, and a treal servo mount on the way. The servo I was running was just a cheap amazon version which has worked pretty well but I figued this thing deserved better so I decided to try the NSDRC RS800V2. The fact that it came trimmed in orange to match the panels sold me, lol.

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I'm just jealous of your scale garage 😆

Mount the ESC where you want, then cut the interior to clear. You won't notice the interior being cut when you're driving it.
 
If you do not want to have a visible cut on the interior, you can mount it below in a waterproof box. I did this in two of my cars and it works like a charm as long as you find a good box.
 
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I could be wrong and maybe it's just the lighting and angle but it looks like your pinion gear is smashing into your ring gear? May need to get some shim action going.

The interior paint job looks awesome. And the scale garage looks awesomer!
 
View attachment 253861
I could be wrong and maybe it's just the lighting and angle but it looks like your pinion gear is smashing into your ring gear? May need to get some shim action going.

The interior paint job looks awesome. And the scale garage looks awesomer!
The lighting in the pic is definately weird. When assembled, I can feel just a hair of play in between the ring and pinion which I think is correct, at least according to my 1/1 automotive experience. I could be wrong.....

And Thank you, I'm pretty impressed with how the interior turned out. I do wish I would have used a flat black instead of metallic gloss but its what I had.
 
If you do not want to have a visible cut on the interior, you can mount it below in a waterproof box. I did this in two of my cars and it works like a charm as long as you find a good box.
I'm not really concerned with waterproofing as this rig only sees the rocks. Rarely gets wet. I have a beat up TRX4 for wet/muddy conditions. Wouldn't putting an ESC in a box cause temp issues?
 
The lighting in the pic is definately weird. When assembled, I can feel just a hair of play in between the ring and pinion which I think is correct, at least according to my 1/1 automotive experience. I could be wrong.....
I always assure the pinion with the driveshaft installed has no noticeable play at all, and isn't binding. Then shim the diff until you have just a tad bit of play. You just don't want the pinion to be able to press into the ring gear if there is any pinion play. So that is why I start there.
 
I always assure the pinion with the driveshaft installed has no noticeable play at all, and isn't binding. Then shim the diff until you have just a tad bit of play. You just don't want the pinion to be able to press into the ring gear if there is any pinion play. So that is why I start there.
what he said!
 
And Thank you, I'm pretty impressed with how the interior turned out. I do wish I would have used a flat black instead of metallic gloss but its what I had.
You could hit it with a matte clear on the exterior to flatten it up.
 
OK, I'm sold. Ill try to get out there and dobsome trimming today. I did go to the trouble of painting the snake head on the esc fan, may as well show it off.
I did try and fiddle around with mine to try to get the ESC in a spot that wasn't going to destroy too much detail. But in the end I just said hell with it.
 
I recommend keeping some extra rod ends on hand. That is the only thing that has broken on mine, and they are inexpensive (angled and straight). I am getting some titanium ones for another car I have, may see if those are the same size. I got a brushless setup for mine, then realized that a brushed motor is likely better for low speed crawling so went with another high quality brushed motor although the stock one is fine.
 
You might find that your Capra is too light of weight to make the standard 2.2" tires conform to the rock, so the narrow wheels help with narrower 2.2" tires. Another option is to run tall 1.9" tires, such as Ruptures, and mount them on a 2.2" wheel. If you're running the factory wheelbase on your Capra, this is a good options as well. I have this setup on the moon buggy. Enclosed as a photo.

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