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its amazing how much better the 28 is compared to the 26,i've got 2 gallons through my .26 reddot and its a pain still.
what pipe are you running now i'm running a 086 and it was a hugh improvement over stock but i'm still not 100% satisfyed with the performance,still tends to load up at idle from time to time
 
I've got a GO 2072 on it now, I had a GO 2047 on it - interesting thing was it got hit at high speed by a Losi 8T & mangled, I put it back on coz I didn't have a spare & the motor picked up quite a lot with the badly dented pipe. The 2072 is much the same as the 2047 - I'm thinking the motor wants a shorter pipe with less volume inside it, the badly dented pipe lost a fair bit of internal volume but picked up power.

My .28 loaded at idle until I had at least 5 gallons on it, now she's loosened up it's sweet as, had it idling the other night for a good 5 minutes, came back & went straight to WOT & it did a wheelstand & f*cked off no problem.
The picco carbs are very sensitive, small needle adjustments make quite a lot of difference, especially on the low speed needle.
I tune it now by doing the low speed 1st - get it warmed up then tweak the low speed till it'll idle for at least 10 seconds without loading up, then set the high speed for max top end & keep an eye on temps, then go back & re-tweak the low speed.
Once you get them right they hold a tune real well, just getting them right in the 1st place takes some doing.
 
TK5310 said:
I've got a GO 2072 on it now, I had a GO 2047 on it - interesting thing was it got hit at high speed by a Losi 8T & mangled, I put it back on coz I didn't have a spare & the motor picked up quite a lot with the badly dented pipe. The 2072 is much the same as the 2047 - I'm thinking the motor wants a shorter pipe with less volume inside it, the badly dented pipe lost a fair bit of internal volume but picked up power.
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QUOTE]

They Chickenman242 - send us your pipe and I can T bone it with my 8ight for ya!

I'm surpirsed how TK's pipe ran with the pipe - it wasn't a small dent and it did noticeably pick up low end torque.

I ran the .086 on my Picco .26 and was never happy with it - it loaded up and ran rich at WOT - I suggest there are better pipes for a .26.
 
haha might take you up on that offer,i'm in perth
what would you suggest i'm open to ideas,i had thought about the 053 but after a bit of research i went for the 086 dynamite
 
Went searching last night and I can only find 1 2047 pipe so I'm wondering if there is anything that can be used in place of that.geez some of those pipes are pricey at this rate I'm better off saving my pennies and getting an ercm pipe and be done with it
 
chickenman242 said:
haha might take you up on that offer,i'm in perth
what would you suggest i'm open to ideas,i had thought about the 053 but after a bit of research i went for the 086 dynamite
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The difference between the 086 and the 2075 was remarkable. But that's on a .28 Picco - the 2075 might not work on a .26 - they are completely different engines.

Also, it's not only the design of the pipe that affects your performance, it's the length of the header too.

I can recommend, or you could choose a pipe, but without a bit of trial and error, it will just a shot in the dark.

My advice to you would be to save your coin and order an ERCM pipe from Robin - you can always take the pipe with you and put it on your next RC.

I suggest, rather than going for the one piece design, that you should get the pipe that joins with a silicone coupler - that way you can tune the length of your system to suit the engines requirements.

http://www.extremercmods.com/pipes


I have 4 or 5 different pipes kicking about . . . . and I would trade them all in a heartbeat for another ERCM pipe.


Consider that 'there is cheap, and then there is value for money'. Robin's pipes are good value for money . . . . and as such, they are reasonably priced.
 
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Pity no one has a different pipe around me to try I would really like to see what the difference would be
Think I may contact robin and be done with it
 
Too small it was a sb setup I wanted to get the ths bb setup but I couldnt get an answer out of ths so I went to the 086 setup
 
All done, my TRX CV axles arrived yesterday along with my 18T RR clutch bell.
I made a new roll bar from alloy tube for lighter weight, it's mounted on 6mm thick rubber matting & I'll wrap the top bit in high density foam to deaden impacts.

During the rebuild I found a cracked front bulkead, 2 teeth broken in the front diff, couple of flogged out rod ends etc.

Feels noticably lighter with the CF chassis & alloy roll bar, also has a lower centre of gravity & better front/rear weight distribution.
18/38 gearing & std ratio gear set should provide better acceleration in 1st (won't pull the front up quite as easy) without giving so much top speed that it blows the tyres off the rims all the time.
I had a 19t bell in it a while ago & top speed was too high, got sick of re-glueing tyres, recently I've had a 17t bell in it, but that makes it a little too wheelstandy & limits top speed a bit much, the 18t should be a good compromise.
Suspension wise I may end up going to slightly lighter springs, it was a little stiff in the suspension before & with less weight it may be oversprung a bit - lighter springs to let the tyres bite a bit more may be a good idea, but I'll run it with the blue/silver springs 1st & go from there - got a Losi 8t with an LRP .28 to catch.

There is almost nothing left of the orginal revo 3.3 now & not much left that can be upgraded!

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Now I got 2 more Revo's to build.

Putting together another one with my old chassis & a .21 BB, RR wide ratio trans, Erevo diffs, RPM everything etc etc - lower torque so it should be softer on the driveline.
That one will be for my eldest to use & a spare for me.

Also got to finish another Revo 3.3 which is closer to standard to sell off & recoup some $.

I should get a pic of all 3 together before I sell the 3.3.
 
Haven't run it yet!

But it came from a mates revo, he ran it for a while with no issues, but didn't beat on it as hard as I do - mostly coz he kept breaking so mch stuff it never really saw much run time.
 
CF chassis is proving pretty tough, had some big hits & rollovers, including skate park brutality - all good.
Can't say the same for trans & diffs.

1 way bearing for 1st gear in the trans wore out, slipped & grabbed a few times under power - result = broken 8740 steel custom main shaft, destroyed 2nd gear bearing, destroyed input shaft bearing, sheared main shaft output gear pin, destroyed RR spur gear, broken diff side gear & knackered diff side bearing.
Wondering if tempering a new gear to reduce its hardness but increase it's toughness may work.

Very expensive 1 way bearing failure!

Every time something in the trans craps out the shock loading knocks teeth off the RR spur gear, got a pile of 6 stuffed spur gears now & at $35 a pop it's getting expensive, the damn gears are too brittle, all well & good to be real hard & resist wear, but not if they are so hard they become brittle & just break well before they wear out.

Have to have a solid think about this revo, either I dial back the power a bit with a high revving .21 or I look at adapting something like a savage trans into it that's designed to take the punishment of a big block & no holds barred driving style.

Having said that the trans did hold up quite well for quite a while, maybe a thorough rebuild with a brand new ebay trans is the go, so long as I can figure out something with the spur gears.
Possibly an alloy trans case to reduce flexing may be a good idea.
Dunno, have to think on it, for now I think I'll just sit down & lay out all my trans bits, pick the best & stick em in to get it running again.
I now have an extensive collection of ziplock baggies full of expensive broken trans & diff parts.

I also broke the clutch cage a while back, got a nice new clutch in it now.
 
Reading this thread almost makes me miss my Revo.......almost :)
I love seeing all the parts/fixes that you're doing yourself. I don't miss nitro as much as thought, but I don't have enough time to dedicate to it either. I love the sound of the nitro but, love the ease of charge and go. Nice work!!
 
I really like my brushless conversion revo but am half tempted to sell it off. The traxxas diffs just don't hold up to brushless power good enough. I don't want to perform the lst2 diff mod and I've considered getting the gears custom machined but geez that's a high dollar bill. The only other thing I've thought of is attempting to harden them myself.

When I did the conversion I spent the money on aluminum outer/inner cases and put all fresh "brushless spec" gears in. I didn't even get two batteries out of the revo before I blew the rear diff out.
 
I use Erevo brushless diffs with hot racing alloy cups - they last pretty good, they only crap out when a bearing lets go & lets the internals move around more than they should.

If I only ran on dirt I probably wouldn't have any problems, but I run on bitumen & concrete quite a bit & that loads up the driveline a lot more.

Rebuilt the rear diff with parts from a new stock revo diff last night, came out pretty good.
Replaced the driveshaft drive cups with longer ones to stop them popping out on rollovers.
Found a RR slipper with only 1 tooth missing & stuck that in as a temporary 'get it going' measure, loosened off the slipper, from now on I'll run it as loose as I can without it slipping too much.
Alos replaced the fuel tank, I suspect the old one has a small crack somewhere although I can't find it - I was having inconsistant idle problems, after a run it'd come down to a lean idle, blip the throttle & it'd come good & was not leaning out under power.
Either that or the lack of baffle in the tank was allowing the fuel to slosh away from the pickup under brakes & getting air in the fuel line - baffle fell out a short while ago after a fairly brutal crash with Punishers Losi.

Still gotta dig up a HD servo saver spring for the steering, the spectum servo & 40 series road rage's overpower the stock servo saver spring & it won't turn very well at high speed.

I ned to get another Revo built up so I've got a spare for when the big un craps out & don't have to end the fun due to another breakage.
 
Man I use best rc cups and picked up integy outer cases. I put the brushless spec internals along with the I-beam support and then shimmed everything to fit nearly perfect. I never pulled the rear apart so I still don't know what gave loose.

It sounds like you need a brushless converted revo ;-)

I wonder how many people would be interested if we could get some machined diff gears done up?
 
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C'mon override come back to nitro haha
I just wish that someone could come up with a bulletproof trans for the revo/t maxx
The last time I had my picco out I snapped 2 pins and stripped 1st and 2nd gear
 

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