Another sign of being rich ????

[militarymaxx]

Weather was good, finally got out after many months without running. I went back to the factory settings on my RB CE engine,
(3.5 turns out HSN, 5 turns out LSN). It ran great for a little while then as usual, it would die if I burped the throttle, high speed runs it would bog down and die. I read somewhere that the RB CE engine runs good at 3 turns out on the LSN and the HSN is flush with the barrel. Going to try that. After running I have little droplets of fuel collecting on the inside the air filter intake tube.
Is this another sign of running too rich and if so, is it on the LSN or HSN side, or both. Also, tell me what you think about the 3 turns out LSN and flush with the HSN. Thanks.

 

[olds97_lss]

What are your temps? On high speed passes, it will bog and die if it's to rich or to lean. The sound is different, but the end result is the same.

Your glow plug may be shot as well. I'd also replace all your fuel lines and seal the carb neck with silicone. Air leaks cause stupid running situations. Usually on the lean side though, at least from my experience.

 

[SkyMaxx]

Not certain that the fuel droplets inside the carb neck are a new sign of running rich, but everything else you listed certainly is. The bogging down on high speed runs is the give-away here. The blipping of the throttle killing the engine is another sign that perhaps it was getting too much fuel too quickly and choking itself.

I'd suggest leaning it up a smidge (especially if it stays as hot as it has been here the last day or so). You could check for an air leak if you like, but I'm putting my money on your needle settings.

 

[slothy]

is it pissing out raw fuel or alot of smoke outa the pipe ?

 

[militarymaxx]

Temp start out low, but gradually make it up to 260 at idle and 300ish during high spees runs. I'm also trying to determine the sounds of what's rich and what's lean. It does make a sound that is hard to descibe. I just know it's not the normal sound when it runs right. Yes, raw fuel coming out of the pipe at idle. And close examination of the glow plug shows it and the entire chamber very, very wet. Now with my luck, I will go too far and put the damn thing in a too lean setting. Wish me luck.

 

[slothy]

umm 300, u have a prob somewhere there bro...

check lines/carb/air leaks

 

[militarymaxx]

Carb is sealed, fuel lines are all new. I think that it's just a combination of the warm weather we had here and the fact that my settings are all over the place. I'm on the RB website looking for some good settings for my RB CE Concept engine. Right now it's set at LSN 3 turns out and the HSN is flush with the barrel.
Trial and error right ? I'll be damned if I give up on Nitro's. I won't let this thing beat me.

 

[Nitroaddict]

300???? This is WAY TO HOT for that engine. RB Engines are known for running excessivly cool. Of all the three I have, they all run about 215-225 on average, with the venom temp gauge recording max high speed temps of about 240's. Something is wrong here.

 

[slothy]

what glow pulg and % of fuel are u running ?

Originally posted by Nitroaddict
300???? This is WAY TO HOT for that engine. RB Engines are known for running excessivly cool. Of all the three I have, they all run about 215-225 on average, with the venom temp gauge recording max high speed temps of about 240's. Something is wrong here.

same here 220-240 in summer on my old ws7II

 

[militarymaxx]

I'm running Blue Thunder Race Formula 20% and the plugs are
RB 1056-6. It hit 300 only that once and for only a second or two, it was after a high speed run and that was with the HSN 3.5 turns out, which is the factory setting. The low speed was set at
5 turns out, again, factory settings. Maybe my radio shack temp gun is reading wrong. I will check it tonight against my BBQ thermometer. A side question: I was reading an article from paris racing about tuning nitros, and they talked about "some modern sport type nitro engines have eliminated the LSN entirely". Which engines are they talking about ? I'm all for simplicity, and with one less needle to worry about, that would be great. But there must be a trade off.

 

[militarymaxx]

I think my temp gauge is kaput. Using a digital thermometer to compare it against, at room temperature and cooler items, (like a cold soda), they both read spot on. But at higher temps, (boiling water), my IR gauge was reading 20-30 degrees higher. It only makes sense that it was reading high when the buggy will idle just fine while the crankcase loads up with fuel that it later pukes out of the exhaust, all this while the temp was reading 260. So, I will search the forums for a good onboard temp gauge and trash the radio shack (radio trash) temp gauge.

 

[Nitroaddict]

they are refferring to entry level sport engines, such as the HPI Nitro star 15 regarding your post about the LSN.

As for temp gauges. I strongly recommend the Raytek Temp gun and Venom temp gauge. Both are great, and perfectly accurate.

 

[olds97_lss]

I believe skymaxx told me in another forum that the board in the radio shack gun is made by raytek. Maybe you need to clean the lens on it?

Don't know, just a thought. I have the RS one as well, it seems to be pretty much on.

 

[militarymaxx]

You were right about my Radio Shack gun, I took it apart and it had Raytek written all over it. I went ahead and ordered a Raytek IR temp gun anyways. I ordered this one from Grainger.

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/productdetail.jsp?xi=xi&ItemId=1611788976&ccitem=

Some of those babies are expensive !!

 

[FlyinRazorback]

You can try a colder plug. I've always had good success with McCoy #9's in RB's. Or try a RB 7 or 8, it may help bring those temps down some.

 

[Nitroaddict]

i run RB 7's in my S7 and 8's in both my Rody's - they all run cool, but also run on 30%.

FRB - see my thread about my new engines? S7 and a C5 Rody. Yeah baby!