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Am I thinking to much?

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i figured it all out but how do you take the little shaft thing that the geer thing goes into, the thing thats near the brake if that made any sense idk thanks now i just need the engine.
 
I finally did it yes its finished at 12:00 i think its gonna be awesome now i just need that engin and an a tuned pipe. Ill just ask you what else i need later cya.
 
I bought this engine: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFDJ4&P=7
and this clutch adapter: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJF69&P=7

I also moved the throttle servo back by the engine and moved the receiver over the top of the steering servo and installed an OFNA gas tank where the receiver goes...

Here's a couple shots to give you an idea of what it looks like:
051804-SMaxx-exhaustsidehigh.JPG

051804-SMaxx-oriontop.JPG


The throttle linkage for the 2.5 sucks with the 2.5 and with the orion slide carb. It made both engines carb bind for me. With the setup I have now, it's smooth.
 
Would i need to move the stuff you did? Also would i have to buy that clutch thing. What i mean is could i just leave it the way it is and just put the engine in w/ out moving that stuff or would that be a better setup.
 
The moving stuff is your call. But if you have the 2.5 maxx, you will need to at minumum buy the adapter. There are very few engines that are a direct drop in with the stock clutch. I don't know for certain, but I think the sirio 18 and maybe a fantom 18 has the right crankshaft if you purchase the right fantom. But orion doesn't make a "direct" drop in. The 18 that they have was designed for the old 15 maxx that used the adapter. The only difference on the new one that they offer for the new 2.5 maxx is it has a slide carb. They actually offer another one for $10 more on tower that has a little longer crank, but that wouldn't be useful for the maxx. You would have to cut the stupid thing anyway to get it to fit.

As for the moving of stuff around, I just didn't like the stock tank, I broke 8 or 9 of them in 6 months. I've had one OFNA buggy tank mounted where I have it for about a year and haven't had to replace it yet. In order to move the servo back where the tank was, I needed the room and the OFNA tank because it doesn't fit back there very well anyway. So, I moved stuff around.

The only reason the servo is sitting cockeyed on the throttle is because I was re-using a couple holes from the tank instead of drilling 4 new ones and weakening the chassis at all.
 
O ok so the cluch adapter is a must if i get the engine and i read up and I'm supposed to berak it in like that guy told you to. Could you get me a pick and tell me how you moved the reciever box on top of that one servo? Looking at yours I'm guessing you dont have reverse any more, is that correct? How would i remove that? Sorry I'm asking so many questions i just dont want to skrew any thing up and stuff, I'm also trying to get an ides of what i want to do to it at this point.

I drove it with just rear wheel drive today and it was kool it sounded better than before. I did notice that it took hills differently though. Thanks for all your suppoart this far i appricieate it.
 
They are probably both good, but personally I don't like the rear exhaust pipes. I have a MIP header, and a Traxxas aluminum pipe. I like it better than the Trinity .18 Big Bore Pipe you have listed because the stinger is able to be turned so it points down out the bottom of the chasis, but it may or may not be "ideal" for an .18.
 
Do you think that the cvec ones manifold will fit the side of the wasp.18?
 
I've read bad things about the cvec one and the other one won't work. You need a new exhaust and header designed for a side exhaust engine if your going to run the wasp 18.

This header Old Maxx Header and this exhaust Old Maxx Exhaust and this gasket set Rectangle Gasket and this coupler Coupler should do what you want. I have an off the wall one that I got from my LHS that sux which is one from Power Racing. I can't find it on their site and thier site kind of blows anyway. But it's pretty much the 4 things I listed, but mine all came in a kit.

As for the no reverse, your right, I don't have it. I took reverse out almost 2 years ago and haven't missed it once. You need to get a FOC (forward only conversion) Maxx FOC that replaces some crap in your trans. I don't think you need to remove reverse though to move the receiver, but you might. I would, it improves performance and adds more longevity to the trans gears. It takes away that jerking motion the truck does when your starting off.

As for pics of how I mounted the receiver, I don't have any worth a crap. I'll take some tonight for you.

My wife needed the computer, so I had a chance to snap a few pics for you. The truck is dirty and I'm not about bling factor, but they are attached. I include one of the whole layout, in-line exhaust, throttle servo linkage, fuel tank mod and reciever stand off. I'm using a racers edge aluminum servo mount to screw the steering servo and reciever into. If you need larger, clearer, I can start a thread and post them or email them to you.
 
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Thanks for all the help and links you gave me. I dont think i have the money for it now and my stock engine hasnt gone yet so I'm going to wait a little bit b/f i gget all this stuff but at least i know what to get now. Once i get it though ill inform you and for the picks thats up to you, i would love to see them but if I'm bothering you, you dont have to take them.just wondering though where do you put your batteriesto drive it? If theres any thing else i need to do please share w/ me.
 
Idk what I'm going to do cuz my parents wolnt let me buy a new engine so i think I'm going to sell it probly on here i may end up keeping it though sorry if i wasted your time.ill let you know if I'm going to keep it.
 
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