Alloy vs. CF

[griemar]

I'm seriously thinking of making the change over to an all alloy GT2. Integy Alloy parts look nice and I'm actually surprised because I thought they would cost more. My question is are they good parts? Also, since I'm becoming a regular at the local tracks, are they decent to race with (legal and worth the extra weight). Or should I stick to my original idea and go with the carbon fiber parts?


Thanks everyone

 

[CharliesTheMan]

I'm going with all Carbon Fiber on my Revo, but I wont know about strength and durability for racing until I've run it some. The integy is cheap for a reason. If you're going to go with alloy, I highly suggest a company that has a warranty and customer service, such as Golden Horizon or East End Machining. I refuse to buy anything from integy. The main problem that I have with them is the way that they treat their customers. If you buy something from them and it breaks or you need assistance, you can NOT call and talk to someone about it. You have to go through this whole "ticket process" which can take weeks on end, and even after that it's hard to get anyone qualified on the phone that speaks good English. I like to buy from companies that stand behind their products. If you have something from Golden Horizon, and you crash and break an a-arm for example, you send it to them and they send you a brand new one, no questions asked. It's also much better quality. However, there are some parts that you don't want to use alloy if you're going to be racing. For one thing, the aluminum is going to be heavy, and if you bling your ride up, you're going to have a serious disadvantage on the track. That's one reason that I'm going with all carbon fiber on my Revo. Second, aluminum bends and it's no good anymore. If you bend it back, you will only weaken it more. If you go with some RPM arms and body mounts, things that take the abuse, the parts will giev in a crash and spring back in place on impact, thus acting as a shock absorber and staying in perfect condition with no weakening to speak of. If you can manage to break one, they will replace it no questions asked.

I say stay away from integy first of all, and if you will be racing, watch the weight and use RPM arms if possible. Aluminum is pretty and I use it on my shelf queens, but if it will EVER see fuel or a battery, its only RPM arms, or a similar brand plastic or nylon, like Tekno RC. I am looking for some carbon fiber arms though.

 

[Rolex]

Avoid buying parts from Integy or Addicted2RC. These 2 have absolutely NO respect for the customer if there's a problem. They have virtually NO communication or response when you need it, so if you don't buy from them, you won't have to regret it later.

 

[griemar]

Avoid buying parts from Integy or Addicted2RC. These 2 have absolutely NO respect for the customer if there's a problem. They have virtually NO communication or response when you need it, so if you don't buy from them, you won't have to regret it later.

Thanks for the input, you both helped save me a huge headache! Guess I'll be getting the rest of the RPM parts that I was thinking about along with the CF.

A touch off topic quick. When "roughing" the clutch pads, ppl are refering to these white pads inside the CB right? Do you rough the inside of the CB also? Here's a pic of my clutch pads (I think).

 

[CharliesTheMan]

you're absolutely right, just scuff the side of the shoes that make contact with the clutch pad enough to get the shine off and give a nice surface to grab the clutch bell. I use a lil trick that I haven't heard other people mention before. I wipe the inside of my clutch bell down with something like denatured alcohol to remove all the grease from the metal. From doing bodywork and painting cars, I learned that the metal comes from the factory with oil and grease on it. If you don't use something to clean that grease from the surface, you will force it down into the metal while sanding, which will work against the friction that the clutch needs. It might not be necessary, but I do it just to make sure and it only takes a few seconds to wipe it down.

 

[griemar]

you're absolutely right, just scuff the side of the shoes that make contact with the clutch pad enough to get the shine off and give a nice surface to grab the clutch bell. I use a lil trick that I haven't heard other people mention before. I wipe the inside of my clutch bell down with something like denatured alcohol to remove all the grease from the metal. From doing bodywork and painting cars, I learned that the metal comes from the factory with oil and grease on it. If you don't use something to clean that grease from the surface, you will force it down into the metal while sanding, which will work against the friction that the clutch needs. It might not be necessary, but I do it just to make sure and it only takes a few seconds to wipe it down.

Awesome, I figured I was on track but wanted to make sure. Now to figure out this "slipper clutch", whatever that is, lol. My goal is basically to get the power to the ground as effective as possible without creating so much stress that it breaks something. I'm believer in getting a good whole shot off the line.