After reading this thread i went to walmart w/ my dad cuz we had do take something to customer service. I checked this marvel mystery out and in convinced the price sold me. it only cost me 1.97$ + tax and i got one pint (16oz) this is way better than 3.50$ for 4oz. i mean if it does the same thing why not buy it if its cheeper. Its meant for one to one cars, your supposed to mix it withe the gas in the car os something so you decide what yall think i know what i think.
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After Run..Stuff.
- Thread starter Smurfola212
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Rochellcommaj
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hEY, My friedn's grandpa told us that if you use moavel's mistery oil that it will cryastalixe and frewze up the motro if you leave i9t in for likd a couple of months or so. I was wondering if it was trye. I noticed the mach .26 in my losi says use wd.49 and It works just fine. is that true? I dont know. I'm stupid noobier
As I stated in an earlier post I have been using MMO for
over fifteen years now in my very expensive marine motors along with just
about everyone I have ever met in my model boat racing travells.
So it has been tested and it works great.
All I can say is try it you will be glad you did.
Tim K
One other thing.
Three or four drops is a joke it will do very little to protect the engines bearings and other metal parts.
You need to turn the engine over slowly while adding oil until it comes up through the plug hole that way you know you have covered all of the engine internally.
Just don't forget to blow the engine out before you go to run it again.
Tim K
over fifteen years now in my very expensive marine motors along with just
about everyone I have ever met in my model boat racing travells.
So it has been tested and it works great.
All I can say is try it you will be glad you did.
Tim K
One other thing.
Three or four drops is a joke it will do very little to protect the engines bearings and other metal parts.
You need to turn the engine over slowly while adding oil until it comes up through the plug hole that way you know you have covered all of the engine internally.
Just don't forget to blow the engine out before you go to run it again.
Tim K
Exactly Tim. 3-4 drops is a joke. I pull my glow plug and roll my piston down to the bottom of it's stroke and using a syringe I put 5 ccs of lube into the cylinder. I then screw the glow plug back in but not tight. Then I pull the air filter and roll the carb to WOT and turn the engine until the port comes up. This is where 3-4 drops might get it done, I just drip it in there until it starts filling the carb. My latest lube of choice is Trans Synd by Castrol. It's a synthetic automatic transmission fluid that I get at work for free. Hey, it's synthetic and it's free. Best of both worlds. Send me your ARO bottles you buy at the LHS and I'll refill them for $2 plus shipping :jk:
This MMO is supposed to be mixed in 1:1 cars gas do you think it would mess or hurt your engine if you mixed it with your nitro fuel to the right amount when running it?
It says add 4oz to every 10 gallons of gasoline you think if i added just a little to the nitro fuel it would hurt anything?
It says add 4oz to every 10 gallons of gasoline you think if i added just a little to the nitro fuel it would hurt anything?
rocknbil
RCTalk Addict
Although I'm a "newbie" here - been doing this over almost 13 years now so I'm not new ot the hobby - TimK and parris are absolutely correct on most points.
Point one, EVERYONE likes to argue over ARO.
I think it's second only to the nitro percentage argument.
Point two, WD-40 is indeed a WATER DISPLACEMENT oil. If you go to their website, you'll see it got it's name because it's the 40th and final formula created for that purpose.
Point three, remember why you use ARO in the first place. Tha alcohol-based fuel we use is hygroscopic, which means it attracts water from the air. The purpose of after run oil is to displace water from your engine internals so that it cannot condense on the parts inside and create rust. In that context, WD_40 will **work** for ARO, but the correlary to point three is . . .
You don't even need to use ARO if you run every day. It's only necessary if it's going to sit more than a day or two. The reason people recommend using it after every run is because you never **really** know when you're going to run next. So it's a very good idea. However . . . this is also why WD-40 is not the BEST choice.
WD-40 also contains solvents and acids. Over time, the solvents evaporate, leaving a gummy residue, and the acids can etch surfaces on a microscopic level. I don't know about you, but I don't want any etching going on inside my engine.
Point four: no one knows the true makeup of manufactured ARO's except their manufacturers, but your guesses are probably close to it. The mystery of Marvel Mystery Oil is indeed given away by its waxy smell, which tells you it's a paraffin-based synthetic. Many ARO's smell very much the same.
Point five: when all else fails, ask the manufacturer. OS engines backs up your statements on two points: one, that a recommended sub for ARO is 50/50 ATF and MMO, and two, that 3-5 drops in your crankcase are next to useless, unless that's all your crankcase holds. The idea is to completely rinse out the engine with the oil and drive out all alcohol residues. I use about a half teaspoon, down the air inlet only, cranked over a couple times on the starter box. You don't need to remove the glow plug and put it down there, all that does is make you suceptible to getting dirt in there and further scratching up the gasket, which can lead to compression loss. Besides that, anything you put down there will blow out the exhaust port anyway as soon as you turn it over. Let the ARO find it's way through your engine the same way the fuel does, through the air inlet and with a few cranks on the starter box (or pulls on the pullstart.)
Point 6: ATF HAS to be a water displacement oil. If you've ever gotten water in an automatic tranny - you'd know the truth of this, for I have. A 50/50 mix of MMO and and full-scale automatic transmission fluid will give you a triple-lifetime supply of ARO, that is what I've used for years.
Watch for an expansion on this article on my site.
Point one, EVERYONE likes to argue over ARO.
I think it's second only to the nitro percentage argument.Point two, WD-40 is indeed a WATER DISPLACEMENT oil. If you go to their website, you'll see it got it's name because it's the 40th and final formula created for that purpose.
Point three, remember why you use ARO in the first place. Tha alcohol-based fuel we use is hygroscopic, which means it attracts water from the air. The purpose of after run oil is to displace water from your engine internals so that it cannot condense on the parts inside and create rust. In that context, WD_40 will **work** for ARO, but the correlary to point three is . . .
You don't even need to use ARO if you run every day. It's only necessary if it's going to sit more than a day or two. The reason people recommend using it after every run is because you never **really** know when you're going to run next. So it's a very good idea. However . . . this is also why WD-40 is not the BEST choice.
WD-40 also contains solvents and acids. Over time, the solvents evaporate, leaving a gummy residue, and the acids can etch surfaces on a microscopic level. I don't know about you, but I don't want any etching going on inside my engine.
Point four: no one knows the true makeup of manufactured ARO's except their manufacturers, but your guesses are probably close to it. The mystery of Marvel Mystery Oil is indeed given away by its waxy smell, which tells you it's a paraffin-based synthetic. Many ARO's smell very much the same.
Point five: when all else fails, ask the manufacturer. OS engines backs up your statements on two points: one, that a recommended sub for ARO is 50/50 ATF and MMO, and two, that 3-5 drops in your crankcase are next to useless, unless that's all your crankcase holds. The idea is to completely rinse out the engine with the oil and drive out all alcohol residues. I use about a half teaspoon, down the air inlet only, cranked over a couple times on the starter box. You don't need to remove the glow plug and put it down there, all that does is make you suceptible to getting dirt in there and further scratching up the gasket, which can lead to compression loss. Besides that, anything you put down there will blow out the exhaust port anyway as soon as you turn it over. Let the ARO find it's way through your engine the same way the fuel does, through the air inlet and with a few cranks on the starter box (or pulls on the pullstart.)
Point 6: ATF HAS to be a water displacement oil. If you've ever gotten water in an automatic tranny - you'd know the truth of this, for I have.
A 50/50 mix of MMO and and full-scale automatic transmission fluid will give you a triple-lifetime supply of ARO, that is what I've used for years.Watch for an expansion on this article on my site.
Bravo rocknbil! That may be the end-all of this discussion. :thankyou: I've never been a big fan of WD-40 as a lubricant (I swear I've seen it actually CAUSE stuff to rust) but it does okay as a penetrant :hump: for loosening seized and rusted screw/bolts . My main use for WD-40 and it's equivalents is for a cleaner . I'll hit the chassis with the stuff and let it soak and then used compressed air to blow it all away. It gives all the parts a nice sheen too. :smart:
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I know that this has been beat to death, but I wanted to add my 2 cents.
I use WD-40 for a short term ARO. But I do use MMO when I put my motors away for a long time. I like to get something thicker in there than WD-40.
I use WD-40 for a short term ARO. But I do use MMO when I put my motors away for a long time. I like to get something thicker in there than WD-40.
savageguy80
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After Run Oil Discrempancy
I just bought Blue Block Rust Inhibitor after Run Oil from ebay. But I did not notice on the back of my fuel just it says DO NOT USE AFTER RUN OILS....the fuel I use is Sidewinder 20% from Morgan Fuel. What strikes me funny is that everywhere else says to put a few drops of oil on the filter after each run. Now why would the fuel company say not to use after run oils and everywhere else says to use after run oils. Color me confused. :shrug:
I just bought Blue Block Rust Inhibitor after Run Oil from ebay. But I did not notice on the back of my fuel just it says DO NOT USE AFTER RUN OILS....the fuel I use is Sidewinder 20% from Morgan Fuel. What strikes me funny is that everywhere else says to put a few drops of oil on the filter after each run. Now why would the fuel company say not to use after run oils and everywhere else says to use after run oils. Color me confused. :shrug:
david93073
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savageguy80 said:
I believe its because of the oil package morgans uses. They use a castor and synthetic oil mix, castor oil does a fine job of coating internal engine parts and protecting them from oxidation.(short-term protection) I use cool power fuel(made by morgans) in my Saito .72 4-stroke airplane engine and on the bottle it sez the same thing, not to use ARO.
