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Randolph

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Greetings everyone, my 7yo son and I are building a scale model of the Russian icebreaker Arktika, and as I haven't built anything RC before, I am looking for advice on what components to put into it. I am looking for a transmitter/receiver/motor controller/motors/rudder servo package, if there is one to be had.
Arktika has 3 props, we are putting in 3 as well but will not drive the center one, I am looking for a controller that is able to run left/right motor against each other, for center turning. Hoping to find 2" clockwise and counter clockwise rotation brass props with shafts. Our boat is 4ft long, 1ft wide.
Thank you for any helpful suggestions.
 
Welcome to RCT!

Depending on how much air you have inside the electronics compartment of the boat, you might need dual water cooled ESC's (Electronic Speed Controls), and each will need to handle the voltage and amp load for your motors.

You also might want water cooling jackets for your motors. This depends on a number of factors. The load on the motors, the air space inside the electronics compartment, etc will all determine how hot things get. You may need a water pump as well to cool the electronics, since I am assuming this boat won't be moving very fast. So a water system like on speedboats where the water is fed via holes in the rudder won't work work well for your application. Again, just something to think about in the planning/building of the boat. If you build it without water cooling, and later find out you're running hot, you might have to add water cooling jackets to the motors, and swap out the ESC's for water cooled ones. So maybe plan for that.

To make dual ESC's work to steer the boat, you are going to need a radio that supports "channel mixing". This feature will connect two channels together and allow your steering to control how the two throttle channels operate, where center steering allows the throttle channel to work as normal for both motors. Turning the steering wheel one direction will lower the pwm signal for one motor to lower its RPM, and does the same for the opposing motor when turning the other direction.

You're likely going to want a rudder, and I would probably set that up on a second steering channel so you can adjust the servo endpoints (servo limits that stop the servo from tirning past the mechanical linkage). So for that you will need a servo. A standard size servo should do fine, but you can also look at 8th scale servos for a little more durability. You don't really need that big of a servo for a boat though I wouldn't think. But being such a big boat, maybe it would be more durable in the long run to go bigger.

Next you need a radio system (Tx and Rx - where Tx stands for Transmitter and Rx stands for Receiver) There are a number of surface radio systems (radio with a steering wheel) on the market that can handle this. But the only radio I have ever messed with channel mixing on is the Radiomaster MT12. It's a great radio, but it has a pretty steep learning curve. But it has a ton of features, and can do everything you need.

Or you could use a stick trsnsmitter (radio with two sticks). Each stick would control one motor in this scenario, but you would still use channel mixing to tie the two throttle channels and steering together.

Hope this helps.
 
Welcome to RCT!

Depending on how much air you have inside the electronics compartment of the boat, you might need dual water cooled ESC's (Electronic Speed Controls), and each will need to handle the voltage and amp load for your motors.

You also might want water cooling jackets for your motors. This depends on a number of factors. The load on the motors, the air space inside the electronics compartment, etc will all determine how hot things get. You may need a water pump as well to cool the electronics, since I am assuming this boat won't be moving very fast. So a water system like on speedboats where the water is fed via holes in the rudder won't work work well for your application. Again, just something to think about in the planning/building of the boat. If you build it without water cooling, and later find out you're running hot, you might have to add water cooling jackets to the motors, and swap out the ESC's for water cooled ones. So maybe plan for that.

To make dual ESC's work to steer the boat, you are going to need a radio that supports "channel mixing". This feature will connect two channels together and allow your steering to control how the two throttle channels operate, where center steering allows the throttle channel to work as normal for both motors. Turning the steering wheel one direction will lower the pwm signal for one motor to lower its RPM, and does the same for the opposing motor when turning the other direction.

You're likely going to want a rudder, and I would probably set that up on a second steering channel so you can adjust the servo endpoints (servo limits that stop the servo from tirning past the mechanical linkage). So for that you will need a servo. A standard size servo should do fine, but you can also look at 8th scale servos for a little more durability. You don't really need that big of a servo for a boat though I wouldn't think. But being such a big boat, maybe it would be more durable in the long run to go bigger.

Next you need a radio system (Tx and Rx - where Tx stands for Transmitter and Rx stands for Receiver) There are a number of surface radio systems (radio with a steering wheel) on the market that can handle this. But the only radio I have ever messed with channel mixing on is the Radiomaster MT12. It's a great radio, but it has a pretty steep learning curve. But it has a ton of features, and can do everything you need.

Or you could use a stick trsnsmitter (radio with two sticks). Each stick would control one motor in this scenario, but you would still use channel mixing to tie the two throttle channels and steering together.

Hope this helps.
Thank you for your reply, I appreciate it. I now think that a simple dual stick radio, with both sticks forward and back, where each stick controls its own motor will be enough for now. Cooling will be ok, there is well enough space in the hull. We will use a lawnmower size battery for power and ballast, as the boat is flat bottomed. And yes, this will be SLOW boat, as we are aiming to be able to go in 1/4" of ice, all for show!
 
Welcome to RCT! Throw up a pic of this Ice breaker! That’s sounds super cool! I love boats but I’m also not a boat builder but I do like upgrading the ones I do have. See below!
IMG_7214.webp
 
I just found this thread.
I built a 1/48 scale USS Eastwind icebreaker. It sounds like your build will be quite close.
IF, you are planning to actually run her in ice, I would suggest that you spend the extra $$ and wire each motor to a separate speed control.
Reasons:1) reliability. Ice is hard and can easily stall a motor. That can lead to motor as well as speed control destruction. Definitely wire a fuse, I use self re-setting circuit breakers, in line between the battery and the speed control.2) much better control maneuvering.
3) most current radios will allow you to mix the two throttles for ease of control and separate them when needed.
The are several sources for props. George Sitek makes beautiful props that will hold up well. The best are made by The Prop Shop. Both of these are in England. The service is excellent from both. Use e-mail for contact. Also look at Dumas. Not sure if they still make the brass props.
if you are going to run in ice, make your bow especially strong. reasons are obvious.

1B4F5DF3-3923-44D5-A495-7BC7DA7E74BF (Medium).webp
 
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