Build Thread AC's Rally build

[ahr43]

Rlaarlo XTS-F10 roller straight from China. Finally, a proper rally car for the series. Anticipating a steep learning curve on this build. Haven't decided on an electronics package yet. Getting the roller on the bench first to sense what she wants. At unboxing, F10 looks a durable, quality product. More to follow. Cheers. -AC

 

[RudyF6]

Looks cool, but your pics no worky...

 

[ahr43]

Looks cool, but your pics no worky...

See if you have pics now, Rudy. For some reason had challenges attaching files. Sorry about that. -AC

 

[RudyF6]

There now - looks like fun!

 

[Antlers]

Rlaarlo XTS-F10 roller straight from China. Finally, a proper rally car for the series. Anticipating a steep learning curve on this build. Haven't decided on an electronics package yet. Getting the roller on the bench first to sense what she wants. At unboxing, F10 looks a durable, quality product. More to follow. Cheers. -AC

View attachment 275217

View attachment 275218

Please keep me updated on this build, I've been looking at that chassis and wanted to get a second opinion from someone who has one

 

[desmobob]

Nice!

I purchased the XTS-S10 after seeing a lot of positive reviews. I liked it so much, I then picked up the XTS-F10. I think the XTS-F10's wider stance and larger wheel/tires make it a little more capable and versatile. I also prefer its tilt-back, hinged body compared to the body attachment design of the S10. The handling and performance of both these models is a joy.

One thing I might recommend is to reinforce the body with fiberglass sheetrock tape and ShoeGoo in the areas around that rear body hinge, the tail lights and the wing.

Another thing you might want to add is a mesh chassis cover. The two Rlaarlo XTS rally cars really channel dirt and debris into the chassis. I made wheel well extensions for my S10 that work fairly well, but not as good as the mesh net I added to the F10. It's the top half of a Rlaarlo chassis guard, attached with heavy duty Velcro on the sides of the chassis instead of using the bottom half of the Rlaarlo guard.

 

[ahr43]

Good stuff to know, desmo. Thanks, bob. Seeing the dirt on the chassis and body leads me to believe the standard RLO rally tires work well off-road. Good to know.

My RC's don't see much dirt. Mostly on-road and off-road grass track. Still, your tip on a net will keep grass and pine needles out of the chassis. I've got a spare AE net from the MT10. It may be a fit worth trying.

Looking at the spring collars, doesn't look like it took much adjustment to balance the chassis out. Thinking this car is close to 50/50 weight balance in running form. Another plus. Cheers. -AC

 

[desmobob]

It's almost sure odds that you're going to love the F10.

The mesh chassis guard was something I added almost immediately as the F10 will seemingly funnel every possible bit of debris into the chassis! It's almost shocking how much it picks up.

Sorry for the dirt in the photos... it hides some of the other reinforcing I did around the tail lights, headlights and air dam. It's noteworthy that the stock tires do really (rally?) well on and off pavement. The only drawback is their non-standard size and scarcity of 3rd party replacement options.

It's easy to lower the ride height for better on-pavement handling using the adjustment screw in the lower A-arms. The stock suspension seems to work very well with just some pre-load on the front needed to keep the air dam from scraping the road on braking/deceleration.

Keep in mind that I'm just a basher and inexperienced in surface R/C vehicles. One of the reasons I might prefer the F10 over the S10 is the gyro in the RTR versions. It's adjustable on the fly via a knob vs. the S10's cumbersome adjustment with just five levels to choose from.

 

[dustyroller]

Did the kit come with reinforcement tape or did you take care of it after you painted it. Looks like a ton of fun!

 

[desmobob]

Mine was the RTR version. I don't know of any models or kits that include the fiberglass tape. I bought a large roll of it at the local hardware store, along with a couple of big tubes of ShoeGoo. It's a popular modification that makes for a really durable body.

Here's the inside of my Rival MT10's body after a full-coverage application. Some small, rare earth magnets were added to retain the model's body clips when they're removed.

 

[dustyroller]

fiberglass tape. I bought a large roll of it at the local hardware store, along with a couple of big tubes of ShoeGoo. It's a popular modification that makes for a really durable body.

Dryer sheets and shoegoo/e6000 work well too.

 

[ahr43]

Test fit my two battery packs. XTS-F10 accepts them both at dimension of 96 x 47 x 25mm without modification. Batteries rest atop the battery tray and not in the tray. To better support the bottoms of the batteries, laid two AE hard foam battery spacers in the tray to take up the void. A.O.K. makes for a sturdy mount. Rlaarlo provides adapters in the roller kit to fit a full length LiPo as an option. Not for this build, but good to have the option.

Looking like the lay down battery connectors are the better for this build. XT-60 is my preferred connector over the IC3. So will have to solder up a pair. Both batteries are 5mm plugs. Cayote makes a thinner, lighter 2s x 3900 2S1P HV LiPo. May consider that as an option battery once a power unit gets the nod.

Spektrum radio system for this build. Looking like a SR215 receiver fits o.k. Wanted to go Futaba but all my receivers are committed to other builds. May just buy an entry level Futaba. Wait out on that one.

That's it for now. thanks for looking in and thanks for the replies and input in supporting this build thread. Cheers. -AC

 

[ahr43]

Updating the build. Been busy with radio system install and fiddly bits.

Decided to fit a new radio system to this build. Futaba T3PV with R203GF receiver. Not as many features as my other two radio systems but has the features I use most. Did have to sacrifice not having an up-timer and settle for less radio range. Worth the trade-off for this build. Ordered and installed a Rlarrlo 11kg (152oz in) servo. Also fit a Rlarrlo alumium servo horn and attached the steering link. Had to space the lid of the radio box up to fit the Futaba receiver. While about it, installed a 1in longer antenna pipe. When re-attaching the combo servo mount/radio box to the chassis, used longer screws to get more thread engagement and a stronger hold. Removed the RR radio box from the chassis.

Eliminated the hinged body for this build. Fabricated a body post mount out of angle aluminum and attached two 2 1/2in DuraTrax body posts from the basher stash. Removing the RR hinge point left two mounting ears exposed, so used a length of 4-40 running thread sleeved inside aluminum tube as a spacer/bumperette. Then removed the two side mount latches and replace them with Velcro. Left the FR quick-release body mount in place.

That's it for now. Power unit purchase and install will have to wait until next month. Leaning toward a HobbyWing 10.5T sensored combo. Dunno. 13.5T might be enough but what the hey - full size rally cars are seriously overpowered so why not 10.5? Cheers. -AC