3 speed trans shift

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Rolex

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While I'm waiting for the alloy trans case to arrive on a slow boat from China, I need some advance info.
The shift adjustment that's accessible through the rubber plug, is that first to second, or second to third?
Does anyone have the turn count of the one that's only accessible when the trans is open? I'd like to know that it gets set in a good shift point before I close it all up again.
 
its first to second to adjust 2-3 u gotta take out your gears and strip them down and adjust them as u want.

rolex u think that ud be able to hit 3rd gear in ur house?? :D
 
Excellent. First to second would be the one I'd need to set very accurately to get all that weight moving.
The shift to third I'd like to set with some idea of how many turns out the adjustment would be, on an average.
The other thought is the higher ratio 3rd gear conversion (15% increase over 2nd) since it has the slotted setup to adjust. Anyone have any info on that? I'll see if I can dig up a pic on it.
If I have to drill a hole in the case and get another rubber plug, I'd be more than willing to do it if I could adjust both shift points from the outside.

Here it is:

https://www.rcnitrotalk.com/more-top-speed-for-the-hpi-savage-3-speed-tranny/
 
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Thanks for that link. Good info, now that I need it. :D
I now have the 3 speed in there, and wasn't sure if it was an increase over the stock 3rd gear, or the stock 2 speed.
For only $10 bucks, I'll take a shot at it and do it all at the same time.
On the link I provided you can see the notch in the ring that allows you to reach the adjustment grub screw. That's what I'm hoping to work out to adjust from the outside.
When I take the present trans apart I'll put up some pics so you can see there is no way to reach it without a tear down.
 
ok and if u do find a way to adjust 2-3rd on the outside please let me know I'm sick of pulling that thing apart haha
 
rolex make a video of you cranking the car and driving it
 
Absolutely. If it looks like a workable conversion, I'll do a prototype with the stock plastic case, then the alloy. Hope for the best. :)
 
It's the 4.6, and it's never been started. I'm thinking I might pull it and put one in with enough muscle to haul that load. The new trans will put it over 19 lbs.
Any recommendations?
 
Yeah, I was gonna say, you need a big engine to power all that weight.
 
I'll put that one on my check list as well. Thanks.
Which one of those would have the nastiest low end grunt and the highest RPMs?
I can do a search, but if anyone knows the info off hand it will save me some time. :)
 
Ooh, ooh, aaarrrrggggg, MORE POWER! AH ah ah.

The Ofna .32. I also read some reviews linked to another forum, and it's major overkill for a standard Savvy, so it should be really good for this one.

$143 on Ebay. Not bad at all.
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SPECS: Displacement: .32 cu in (5.2cc) ... Exhaust: Rear Bore: 19.5mm... Stroke: 17.5mm..... Liner: ABC ....Number of Ports: 6... Crankshaft: 14.0mm SG (pilot) shaft.... Piston: Fully CNC-machined aluminum alloy.... Connecting Rod: 7075 aluminum double bushing..... Claimed Output: 3+HP @ 33,000RPM..... Max RPM: 36,000..... Needle Settings: Main Needle Valve: 3-3-1/2 turns from closed.... Low Speed: Flush with ball end.... Barrel Stop Screws: 1/16" gap to start new engine....... Distance Between Mounting Holes Same Side: 0.83" (21mm).... Distance Between Mounting Holes Opposite Side: 1.5" (38mm).... Height Bottom of Mounting Tabs to Top of Cylinder Head: 4" (102mm).... Width at Mounting Tabs: 1.8" (45.8mm)..... Width of Crankcase Below Mounting Tabs: 1.2" (30mm)..... Distance from Pull Start to Front Bearing: 3.3" (84.3mm).... Distance from Center of Engine to Front Bearing: 1.8" (45mm).... Distance from Center of Engine to Pull Start: 1.5" (39mm) .
 
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