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2wd or 4wd slash dune buggy

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Like an OG dune buggy?
Yeah, I was looking at these long travel kits
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1000005665.webp
 
Now, normally I would be telling you that using aluminum arms is a Baad idea. See what I did there? 😆

But in this case, if you're going to stick to soft pillowy sand with it, no big air or landing on packed terrain and rocks, and you keep it as light as possible, AND if those are 7075, then yeah, maybe I'd risk it.

What the hell am I saying? Never, never use aluminum arms, especially on an open wheeled machine.

But seriously, if the above conditions are kept, I'd say go for it, if bling is what you're after. Or if those are the only thing out there that get you what you're after.
 
Now, normally I would be telling you that using aluminum arms is a Baad idea. See what I did there? 😆

But in this case, if you're going to stick to soft pillowy sand with it, no big air, landing on packed terrain and rocks, and you keep it as light as possible, AND if those are 7075, then yeah, maybe I'd risk it.

What the hell am I saying? Never, never use aluminum arms, especially on an open wheeled machine.

But seriously, if the above conditions are kept, I'd say go for it, if bling is what you're after. Or if those are the only thing out there that get you what you're after.
Is there a way to tell if they are 7075 aluminum?
 
I have a 2wd Slash I run on the sand. Bone stock Bl-2S but paddles and ribs. Absolute blast at the beach. It does get sand in the stock tub but I just shake it out. I'm almost done with my RC10 RS conversion to a "sand truck".
 
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Is there a way to tell if they are 7075 aluminum?
If they are, they would be stupid for not listing that in the description.

If you don't get nuts with it, and they are 6061 T6, they may hold up. But generally, aluminum arms on an open wheeled RC, 1/14 scale or bigger is a bad idea.

They don't break. They bend, and transfer all that energy during a crash right to your hinge pins, which then transfers that energy to the bulkhead. Basically, energy trying to find the weakest link. And it will find it.
 
If they are, they would be stupid for not listing that in the description.

If you don't get nuts with it, and they are 6061 T6, they may hold up. But generally, aluminum arms on an open wheeled RC, 1/14 scale or bigger is a bad idea.

They don't break. They bend, and transfer all that energy during a crash right to your hinge pins, which then transfers that energy to the bulkhead. Basically, energy trying to find the weakest link. And it will find it.
This is the only thing it says
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Is that good?
Not as good as 7075. But, if it is T6 I is  probably going to be ok. Like I said, aluminum arms are bad. But I think you'll be ok with those if your build isn't too crazy and stays really light.
 
Not as good as 7075. But, if it is T6 I is  probably going to be ok. Like I said, aluminum arms are bad. But I think you'll be ok with those if your build isn't too crazy and stays really light.
How would I also tell if it is T6?
 
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