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.26 clutchbell

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jmarzilli

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I recently upgraded my t-maxx to an ofna .26 outlaw engine with a dynamite .21 conversion kit. I'm having a hard time finding a big block clutch bell with a 32pitch. I was wondering if anyone knew of one that would fit.
 
I think you're going to find that most (or all) big block CB's are of a different scale then 32 pitch CB's. They are more commonly refered to as 1/10 scale CB or 1/8 scale CB. Now that you've entered the big block relm you're going to need a 1/8 scale (1.0 module) CB. These size CB's are what are used on the 1/8 sale MT's like the Savage and 1/8 scale buggies. Now you're problem is the spur gear. You're typical T-maxx spurs will no longer match correctly with the "big block CB". Fortunatley, RC Solutions makes a couple 1.0 module spur gears for the T-Maxx. You can choose either 52T or 54T. Yes, that seems low but the 1/8 CB's only go up to about 18T. If you check out they're website www.rc-solutions.com you'll find a handy little table that'll tell ya what size CB will be approximatley equal to the stock T-Maxx gearing. I recommend using OFNA CB's with these special spurs due to their reputation for making strong & reliable CB's and the fact that they were recommended to me by a staff member at rc-solutions (who just so happens to be a member of this forum).
 
I've the following in my T-Maxx:
- XTM .24 PRO
- RC Solutions 52T spur
- stock Revo 1/8 scale clutchbell (16T)
- XTM 1/8 scale sliding clutch kit (part # C90231)

Prior to this I had a RRC slipper kit with a 66T spur and a 22T clutchbell. Tries a variety of clutches - 2 shoe stock, 3 shoe alloy, etc. Very fast, but the smaller clutches and clutchbells didn't hold up well.

I switched to the 1/8-scale setup about three gallons ago. *Zero* problems in the gear department. This combo hooks up so well that I've had to change my rear hexes out for aluminum, as I stripped the plastic ones.

I've just ordered a 15T Revo clutchbell. I may not use it though, as I don't really need more torque!



visioneer_one,
burning fuel like a Mofo
 
Last edited:
thanks for the help! I'm going to check into an RC SOLUTIONS spur, and when I get it I'll let you know how it works out.
 
just a little added tidbut jmarzilli... I run that engine as well. I've heard of people having trouble finding a good clutch with those big blocks. I run a Fioroni turboslide flywheel with the carbon shoes. I run an OFNA CB with it as well. the flywheel/clutch setup fits pefectly inside of the CB and I get awesome grip with it. It's a bit on the pricey side but well worth it. good luck!
 
I just bought a sirio .27 for my maxx, and i think i might have to go to an 1/8 scale clutch setup as well. Where can i find all the parts needed? Thanks
 
So is the sliding clutch better than the regular style clutch setup? Are there any real advantages over the savage teflon 3 shoe clutch? Thanks for the help guys.
 
I wish I could tell if it was better or not but I don't have experience with the 3 shoe you're comparing to give an accurate opinion. i can only say that I'm very happy with the turboslide style
 
.21Rc10GT said:
So is the sliding clutch better than the regular style clutch setup? Are there any real advantages over the savage teflon 3 shoe clutch?
Click to expand...

I once tried an Integy 3-shoe aluminum 1/10 scale clutch setup with the XTM. The shoes lasted less than one tank - they mented so badle that I had to wreck the flywheel in order to get it off the engine.

Just sayin.

The sliding clutch setup is easy to use. Forget about fighting with clutch springs when you change shoes. Remove your clutch bell, pop off the C clip, pull old shoes straight off, push new shoes and spring on and pop the clip back on. Very easy, it takes longer to take your clutch bell off than to change the shoes.

olds97_lss said:
Here's what I used with the RC-Solutions spur:
Bell: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBL93&P=7
Click to expand...

I prefer Traxxas' stock Revo clutchbells. These are nicer than the similar Ofna and HPI clutchbells, as they use 5x11mm bearings.

(Ofna and HPI clutchbells use 5x10mm bearings.)

Bigger bearings == more surface area == better heat dissiptation

Just stumbled across some 17T and 18T 1/8-scale Revo clutchbells from 3Racing. According to the manufacturer they also use 5x11mm bearings.

Ordering one of the 17T ones and a set of polyamide-sealed bearings TODAY.




visioneer_one,
Speed is GOOD
 
visioneer_one, have you used the revo cb with the rc-solutions gear? If so, it must be hardened steel like the OFNA cb's. The HPI cb's can't run against that gear. They can, but then they will look like this:
2004-0921-TMaxx-ChewedCB01.jpg


At least mine did... within one tank of fuel.
 
I'm running a stock Revo 16T clutchbell right now.

I haven't had to pull the engine out of the truck for any reason since I installed the 1/8 gear. BIG difference from when I had the 1/10 gear installed - I'd have the engine out at least twice per outing.

Going on gallon #4.

side.jpg


Looking forward to running the 17T clutchbell...





visioneer_one,
trouble-free
 
At full-depth it is.

I had to shim it out a bit - had clearance issues between the engine mount and the rotostart backplate.

I figured it would be better to engage two-thirds of the clutch shoes than one half of the gear teeth.

I've a new chassis plate coming. I plan to relocate the motor mount holes so that the shoes and gear are fully engaged. Couldn't do it with this one as I'd already done some heroic dremel work in order to get the RRC 1/10 gear mounted.





visioneer_one,
no mail yet today
 
visioneer_one said:
The sliding clutch setup is easy to use. Forget about fighting with clutch springs when you change shoes. Remove your clutch bell, pop off the C clip, pull old shoes straight off, push new shoes and spring on and pop the clip back on. Very easy, it takes longer to take your clutch bell off than to change the shoes.
[/i]
Click to expand...


I do have to say that's it's not really as easy as one would think. As far as putting a new pair of shoes on the flywheel, yes, as stated above it's very simple and easy. But before you do that you must put together the shoes via the springs. That's the part that can be a bit tricky. you can put a maximum of 3 springs (2 on one side and 1 on the other) on the shoes. They set into a grove that continues around both shoes then attach to themselves. It can be a bit tricky the first time but after you figure it out it's not too bad
 
olds97_lss said:
You could put about 2mm worth of shims behind the flywheel collet to get the same results... then you would be engaging the full clutch.
Click to expand...

I'd thought of that.

Had some problems with the previous flywheel coming loose from the collet. Tried shims, loctite and mods, but it kept spinning loose. When I installed the new gear I decided to lock this one down, no excuses.





visioneer_one,
gunshy
 
Never had the problem of a slipping flywheel and I always have at least a couple shims behind the collet. I've had many other problems... but not due to shims.
 

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