12mm wheel hexes

[The_RC_Dude]

Another benefit of the screw in pin is that if you strip one, at most, you have to ruin a hex/hub. But with ones that are secured via the end of the cvd shaft, it can cost you a hex and a shaft because you can't get the stupid grub out.

So you mean with the no-pin, full length grub screw on that goes all the way thought the axle stub hole, it'll cost you less if it rounds out, versus the kind of hex were you have a pin and a grub screw, and the grub clamps the hex tight around the CVD, will cost you more in parts if it rounds out? I'm kinda having a hard time picturing both situations.

 

[Caleb90]

So this kit came today https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0818K2V5N?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Fitted one up, raised inside lip fits the bearing race. Groove gets full bit of the pin great! Well almost, these measure 7.5mm thick not 7mm. So they take up too much space on the axle stub to get the rim caps back on. Going to wait and see how the others fit. I may end up turning these down to 6mm and keeping as a spare

 

[olds97_lss]

So you mean with the no-pin, full length grub screw on that goes all the way thought the axle stub hole, it'll cost you less if it rounds out, versus the kind of hex were you have a pin and a grub screw, and the grub clamps the hex tight around the CVD, will cost you more in parts if it rounds out? I'm kinda having a hard time picturing both situations.

I went off the rails a bit... When I said this:

But with ones that are secured via the end of the cvd shaft

I was talking about ones like 1/8th buggies, the e-revo 2.0, arrma trucks, etc with large bore axles that have a grub screw that goes in the center that locks the pin in the hex. I shouldn't have mentioned those as they are irrelevant to OP's problem/questions.

I never really understood the point of these, are they supposed to lock onto the axle and not slide off when the tires are removed/changed?

 

[nino]

I guess that's the idea, so you don't lose them when changing wheels, but I prefer the threaded pin like you get on most crawlers nowadays.

 

[Dan B.]

I never really understood the point of these, are they supposed to lock onto the axle and not slide off when the tires are removed/changed?

Yeah, there’s a set screw that locks them down tight. I like them and use them on my 1/10 AE and Traxxas trucks. You’ll never worry about stripping a hex or losing the hex or pins.

 

[ahr43]

Greetings Caleb and all,

I am going to try two Team Associated (AE) sets from the SC10 on the MT10. AE part no. ASC9892 (Rear) and ASC9893 (Front). They are 12mm Aluminum Clamping Wheel Sets (AE blue anodize, of course). Amain carries them.

Talked at length over the phone with the Team Associated help desk yesterday. Their tech slipped one of each over the MT10 axle and they "seem" compatible. No guarantee. The rear ASC9892 have an 8mm offset. They are wider (taller, thicker) than the fronts. But with the P-L Trencher's I am trying to fit up, that may be a benefit. Anyway, I am going to order a set of each to see if and what. AE tech seemed confident they will work.

AE also offers a set for the B4 buggy (ASC9890). They will not work.

Normally, I tend to shy away from a clamping set, but the Trencher tires set really will really load the axles and bearings. In this case, clamping may be the ticket. A work in progress. FYI. Cheers. 'AC'

 

[Caleb90]

These ones work https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B081...ge_1?smid=A1MUD8NJZFJJAX&psc=1&&tag=rctalk-20. Just can't get the stock wheel cap back on the rim. I think i may just put them in a cnc machine at work and turn them down to proper thickness

 

[ahr43]

Thanks, Caleb. I source most of my RC purchases from Amain. Think I'll try the AE/OEM first. Be a while before I need hexes as an upgrade to using the larger Trenchers on the MT10. Will advise on this thread. Cheers. 'AC'