is it possible to tune a engine to not overheat when bashing in grass areas?

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pelicanprentice

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hey all, i got a savage x and i believe i am decent in my abilities to tune the engine with my temp gun. when i am tuning on pavement, i can get it at a good temp range that i like and i barely have to move the needle. however whenever i play in a grass field (grass is probably 6 inches high i would say?) the temps easily get in the 300f range or above pretty easily. i have tried richening it but then it ends up getting sluggish and or still stays pretty hot. i couldnt seem to get it a good temp. is this just due to the nature of playing in grass? or does my engine probably have a leak or something?

so my question is, if i strictly wanted to bash in grass and i wanted to tune my engine for that, would it be possible to find a needle setting that would not make my engine get past 260f for example? or is grass just too hard on the motors such that they overheat regardless?

thanks!
 
hey all, i got a savage x and i believe i am decent in my abilities to tune the engine with my temp gun. when i am tuning on pavement, i can get it at a good temp range that i like and i barely have to move the needle. however whenever i play in a grass field (grass is probably 6 inches high i would say?) the temps easily get in the 300f range or above pretty easily. i have tried richening it but then it ends up getting sluggish and or still stays pretty hot. i couldnt seem to get it a good temp. is this just due to the nature of playing in grass? or does my engine probably have a leak or something?

so my question is, if i strictly wanted to bash in grass and i wanted to tune my engine for that, would it be possible to find a needle setting that would not make my engine get past 260f for example? or is grass just too hard on the motors such that they overheat regardless?

thanks!
You’ll have to adjust the gearing. Gear it down for the extra resistance.
 
as said above, gear down a few teeth on the clutchbell, or go bigger on the spur gear (if that is possible), wont have as much top speed, but more torque to aid the engine for the extra drag that grass gives.
 
thanks for the replies! i was running the stock savage x spur gear so i guess it had 47 unless I'm wrong. the spur gear melted so i have to get a new one.
i tbh was hoping for more top speed on grass but i guess i can't have best of both worlds aha

do i need to change my hpi stock clutch bell too?
 
thanks for the replies! i was running the stock savage x spur gear so i guess it had 47 unless I'm wrong. the spur gear melted so i have to get a new one.
i tbh was hoping for more top speed on grass but i guess i can't have best of both worlds aha

do i need to change my hpi stock clutch bell too?
if you can gear it far enough with just the spur gear, shouldn't need to change the clutchbell also but you might not be able to gain enough teeth on the spur due to overall size, and available aftermarket parts (i dont personally know how much bigger spur gears were made for the savage).
that said it will take less tooth change with the clutchbell than it will with the spur gear. i.e. 2 teeth lower on the spur gear wont affect the ratio as much as 2 teeth lower on the clutchbell.
 
if you can gear it far enough with just the spur gear, shouldn't need to change the clutchbell also but you might not be able to gain enough teeth on the spur due to overall size, and available aftermarket parts (i dont personally know how much bigger spur gears were made for the savage).
that said it will take less tooth change with the clutchbell than it will with the spur gear. i.e. 2 teeth lower on the spur gear wont affect the ratio as much as 2 teeth lower on the clutchbell.
thanks for the reply! so i should go larger on spur and smaller on clutch bell right? i dont mind throwing some $$ into both, so does a 48t spur with a 14 clutch bell sound good? thats the largest and smallest robinson seems to have however if my LHS has something larger and or the same ill probably buy with them regardless to supprort local
 
thanks for the reply! so i should go larger on spur and smaller on clutch bell right? i dont mind throwing some $$ into both, so does a 48t spur with a 14 clutch bell sound good? thats the largest and smallest robinson seems to have however if my LHS has something larger and or the same ill probably buy with them regardless to supprort local
i am unsure what size would be best to use, one thing to check is what you are currently running. i would drop 2-3 teeth on the clutchbell and go from there typically, then re-assess. if it is running fine at that gearing leave it, or if its still running a bit hotter, increase a few teeth on the spur or if possible drop another tooth on the CB. what size tires are you running? stock?
 
i am unsure what size would be best to use, one thing to check is what you are currently running. i would drop 2-3 teeth on the clutchbell and go from there typically, then re-assess. if it is running fine at that gearing leave it, or if its still running a bit hotter, increase a few teeth on the spur or if possible drop another tooth on the CB. what size tires are you running? stock?
ahh gothca make sense thanks and yes I'm running stock hpi savage x tires. after playing in grass i dont think ill ever play on pavement anymore ahah, so does that mean i need to change tires?
 
ahh gothca make sense thanks and yes I'm running stock hpi savage x tires. after playing in grass i dont think ill ever play on pavement anymore ahah, so does that mean i need to change tires?
no, you can, but no need. just didnt know if you had increased size or put on heavier tires, or something to that affect.
heavier/larger tires are also harder on the engine and can drive the temperature up. but if geared correctly should be just fine.
 
hey all, i got a savage x and i believe i am decent in my abilities to tune the engine with my temp gun. when i am tuning on pavement, i can get it at a good temp range that i like and i barely have to move the needle. however whenever i play in a grass field (grass is probably 6 inches high i would say?) the temps easily get in the 300f range or above pretty easily. i have tried richening it but then it ends up getting sluggish and or still stays pretty hot. i couldnt seem to get it a good temp. is this just due to the nature of playing in grass? or does my engine probably have a leak or something?

so my question is, if i strictly wanted to bash in grass and i wanted to tune my engine for that, would it be possible to find a needle setting that would not make my engine get past 260f for example? or is grass just too hard on the motors such that they overheat regardless?

thanks!
The best thing that I have found that works for me on my nitro engines is installing a battery a switch and a fan any kind of fan will work and make sure you get a good long lasting lipo and run at all times as if you used to run an actual race car it makes a big difference
 
The best thing that I have found that works for me on my nitro engines is installing a battery a switch and a fan any kind of fan will work and make sure you get a good long lasting lipo and run at all times as if you used to run an actual race car it makes a big difference
FWIW i don't know if i personally would recommend that, as the way i see it you are still overworking the engine, all that would be doing is masking the problem, not fixing it. then you are also depending on a fan that can very easily fail without you knowing and causing premature wear, or burn up the engine.
on the flip-side, when you don't "need" the extra cooling, it could over-cool the engine causing it to run below operating temperatures and wear it out that way, an engine at a good tune should be at least 230F for everything to expand properly and not cause premature wear, and under 270-275F as much above that is where parts start deforming.
 
hey all, i got a savage x and i believe i am decent in my abilities to tune the engine with my temp gun. when i am tuning on pavement, i can get it at a good temp range that i like and i barely have to move the needle. however whenever i play in a grass field (grass is probably 6 inches high i would say?) the temps easily get in the 300f range or above pretty easily. i have tried richening it but then it ends up getting sluggish and or still stays pretty hot. i couldnt seem to get it a good temp. is this just due to the nature of playing in grass? or does my engine probably have a leak or something?

so my question is, if i strictly wanted to bash in grass and i wanted to tune my engine for that, would it be possible to find a needle setting that would not make my engine get past 260f for example? or is grass just too hard on the motors such that they overheat regardless?

thanks!
Two things you can do to engine to lower temp. One open the HSN 1/8 turn at a time until happy with lower temp. Two run more oil lube to cool engine.
 
Two things you can do to engine to lower temp. One open the HSN 1/8 turn at a time until happy with lower temp. Two run more oil lube to cool engine.
did you read where he did richen the mixture and it was making it too rich and killing performance? you did quote his post.
more oil will make it run hotter... oil is NOT coolant, and oil does not compress, which makes it that much harder on the engine causing it to run hotter.
 
You can also cut a hole in the windshield to help with airflow.
 
btw if it makes a diff I'm running a 30% nitro with 9% oil, i wanna run the more nitro for more power but this is the most oil i can get at my lhs
 
I suspect over time and your tuning to the lean side has caused damage to the motor. More oil lube is the only option now. But it may not improve the engine temps. Running that low of oil lube has is consequences. Less tuning window. More oil lube will keep the engine cooler. You can try 5 oz. per gallon to get 2% more lube.
https://www.denniskirk.com/klotz/be...rm=4585100930731737&utm_content=All+Products&
 

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