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wont stay running

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Blainer

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hey, i have a problem with my savage not staying running. i have rechecked all my throttle settings and it will idle nice and accelerate good but for no reason it will jst die, sometimes at idle sometimes at high throttle. I am noticing alot of air bubbles in my fuel line and i can't seem to keep them out. i have checked both ends of the line and they are on tight. it is only a week old so i cannot see the line being cracked or anything. is there any other reason i would be getting air in the line?
 
Have you checked for cracks on the fuel tank itself? That shock tower screw by the tank needs to be turned around if not already done so.
 
no i have not checked it, the tank has to be perfectly sealed in order to run properly? i am very new to this hobby. i did not know the tank works on a vacumm i will check that thanks
 
Yeap, its a pressurized system. If your tank isnt cracked, it might be your primer button. If its the primer button, you might as well get a different tank instead of trying a fix. They are only around $10 for a primerless tank.
 
i think that it may be the primer button. i have just puilled off my tank and when i turned the tank upside down fuel leaded out the primer button, i take it that this is not right and that it is the source of my air leaks , only one week old and its screwed already not a very good feature for hpi products
...:(

where to buy a fuel tank for the savage? will any tank fit it and if not does anyone know where to get replacement tanks with no primer button?
 
Try contacting HPI about the fuel tank. As the Truck isn't that old they may replace it for free.
 
  • This is my setup... OFNA tank part #30280 TANK LINK , OFNA mounting posts part #30288, and Adrenaline tank guard part #ADR014PR. The tank guard and posts are optional, I have heard of people mounting this OFNA tank to the stock posts with little modification.
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Once you have the tank thing figure out, check to make sure you are running a long glo plug in the engine. I know it is a little thing, but that is what was a problem for mine when it would not run consistantly or stay running.

Twiztid, thanks for posting that info on the OFNA tank. One question, does it have a bell ringer for a fuel inlet. I only ask, because the fuel outlet looks kind of high on the tank. I'm assuming it has a filter stone and tube from that outlet that sits in the bottom of the tank. Either way, I've been looking around for just that kind of solution to my own tank needs.
 
Yes it does Sky. It is a great tank to have, unlike the stocker it doesn't lean out at the last half tank. It will run to the last drop if you wanted it to.
 
Leaky primer button

Has anyone plugged the primer with JB weld? I had the same problem with leaning out, but I started burning Blue Thunder and now it runs cooler and will drain multiple tanks without shutting down to refuel. A new tank fixed the bubble problem though, but BT makes it run cooler. You can pull the top of the primer button off and expose the top o-ring, so why couldn't you fill the cavity with JB and seal it up?
 
i attempted to seal my primer button with a high temp silicon gasket maker because i know gasoline wont eat it but the blue thunder fule sure did, it sealed for a while but either the oil or the nitro ate it away tiil it just popped out the top. JB may work it seems to seal anything but probably only if you let it set for a few days to totally harden, if it works let me know and i will try it. I am gonna order a new ofna tank anyways though
 
The fuel system is self leaning whether it has a primer button or not. There are two things the primer button does for you. One, it allows you to prime the engine. Two, it is usually the first place in the tank that a leak develops. It is because of two that most people get rid of the primer and go with a primer-less tank.

As for removing the primer and plugging it up, there are a number of methods to go about doing it. Get creative and just make sure you create a good solid seal on the hole where the primer was. Leaky tanks or bad pressure make for bad running.
 
Ya, sky, it is. But I still think that the fuel makes a big difference as well. When I got my Savage it was second hand and had been run alot (but still good). My LHS only stocks Byrons. If I put Byrons in the Sav, it'll run for half a tank, get really hot and die. If I tune it to run the second half it will not stay lit with a full tank. Now I burn Blue Thunder. The leaning at 1/2 tank is still there, but tuned to run the second half is only slightly rich at full tank. Maybe that's just my mill. I drive an hour 1 way to get the Thunder and it's $10 cheaper than the Byron at the lhs.

As for removing the primer, I would leave it in, but I would pop the button off, fill the cavity under the button with jb and put the botton back on. I don't think it's possible to pull the whole primer assembly out through the top. If I do it to my old tank, I'll post some pix.
 
I run only Blue Thunder in both my MTs. Great fuel and the engines run cool.

As for removing the primer, it can be done. Just takes some thought and time. It is more effective to just replace the tank with a primer-less one.
 
Cool. Anything that is put together, can be taken apart. I guess in the long run it would be more effective to replace it, that would solve the leaning problem. I just like tinkering with stuff. I just hate byrons fuel. I screwed up a couple of airplane engines with it. One was a Chec MVVS .40 (detuned quicky 500), the other was an OS FS48 4 stroke. Both had huge ammounts of carbon buildup from Byrons. I switched to Morgans and Wildcat fuels, it made all the difference in the world. Ya know what all the bozos at the field said? Why are you burning crap like Omega? So ' so has byrons at the shop.... Dang I'm off topic. Sorry.
 
LOL...my LHS won't even carry Byrons. They told me why a bit ago, but I've since forgotten. It was probably the fact that it tends to eat engines. BUT Blue Thunder on the other hand seems to love engines. People talk bad things about the smurf juice, but it has never done bad by me.

Originally posted by Blainer
i attempted to seal my primer button with a high temp silicon gasket maker because i know gasoline wont eat it but the blue thunder fule sure did, it sealed for a while but either the oil or the nitro ate it away tiil it just popped out the top. ...
Click to expand...

It's not the oil. Nitro eats just about any rubber. It just plain breaks it down. That is unless you buy some super special nitro proof rubber. In the long run, getting the new tank will make you happier. No worries about fuel eating through your mod or causing leaks and bad engine performance.
 
Ok Sky, I'll bite... I've been studying this dang tank for about an hour and I don't see how you can get the plunger out without fishing some kind of saw in there and hacking it in half. The only other thing I can think of is drilling the top with a drill the size of the ID of the primer tube and pulling the main plunger out thru the top. The last option is just buying a tank that looks just like the stock one (but w/o the primer) and saying Ta Da!!!.:thumbsup:
 
You've about covered the methods. I like the last method the best. Just go buy a new tank without a primer.

:D
 
I honestly didn't read after the self-leaning nature or pressurized tanks.

It's very easy to remove the primer button from a tank. You pull the button up with a pair of pliers. Then with the other hand you cut the metal shaft on the primer as close to the tank as you can with the cutting wheel on your dremel. If you have pulled it out far enough when you cut it, you should be left with a short stub inside the tank. You just push it back into the tank anf shake the remainder out. Then you are left with a small hole. Find a machine screw that is just a little bit bigger and screw it into the hole along with some epoxy, jb-weld or in my case "Marine Goop". Let it dry and you have a great primer-less tank.

Good Luck,
Rob
 
Yeah, that would work on a tank with a metal plunger, but not on the HPI stock Savage tank. There aint any metal in one of those, except the lid spring.

The main problem with the savage tank is that it has a tendancy to lean out at half a tank due to it's design.
 
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