Who Knows Engines? UPDATE

[Rolex]

All excellent info, Justin. Thanks for that. 60,000 miles in 9 years, and NEVER a misfire or a sputter. This was something very sudden, that's why I suspected the ignition module. After it sat, it was stubborn to start, but it finally fired up. That's why I'm now suspecting water or filter. From the day I bought this car till I pulled out of here earlier, it's about 1 1/2 seconds of cranking, and it starts. Summer or winter. That has NEVER changed, or it would have gotten my attention.
The battery is a 7 year, less than a year old. All the voltages are good according to my gauges. I've eliminated most of the obvious choices.

I'm definitely going to check into the cap. We've had nothing but rain and 100% humidity here for a week. It rained on the ride, so there's an excellent possibility that it might be a crack in the cap letting in moisture.

 

[savon]

maybe this thunderbird belongs on a shelf

Now thats cold lmao

 

[Racer 1966]

If there is no misfiring, sputtering then I doubt it's the cap/moisture.

You checked voltages and they were good so I would rule out that out.

Did the check engine light come on? The computer usually will throw a code in this type of circumstance. Usually AutoZone, O'Reilley or similar places will check for a code no charge.

The item I would suspect on a Ford is the Idle Speed Air Control Valve. This is usally fixed with a good spray cleaner.

I doubt the wiring is a problem and not sure why he mentioned the belt, even if the belt broke it won't die suddenly.

 

[destrucktomaxx]

If there is no misfiring, sputtering then I doubt it's the cap/moisture.

You checked voltages and they were good so I would rule out that out.

Did the check engine light come on? The computer usually will throw a code in this type of circumstance. Usually AutoZone, O'Reilley or similar places will check for a code no charge.

The item I would suspect on a Ford is the Idle Speed Air Control Valve. This is usally fixed with a good spray cleaner.

I doubt the wiring is a problem and not sure why he mentioned the belt, even if the belt broke it won't die suddenly.

I mentioned the belt because if it does not have proper tension it will cause the alternator to put out less current. When the alternator can't put out enough current, it causes the battery to pull double duty and most of the components run off of A/C voltage. When it does this, this not only causes a glitch in the system but also causes the lead plates inside the battery to collect lead sulphate crystals, IE, corrode and it will not be able to take on its normal state of charge. Similar to what happens when you under charge a NiCAD pack too many times, it forgets that it can hold the same charge as new. Sulphated batteries can be brought back to life with a slow, low charge that gradually brings up the amperage over the course of 6 hours upwards of 100 hours.

Thank you for pointing out the IAC valve, it completely slipped my mind (must be due to my recent accident). But also keep in mind that the IAC valva cannot be readily serviced, seeing as how its a sealed component. Any "cleaning" of the valve will most likely be short lived. Replace the unit with an IAC valve from the maker or of similar quality.

Vacuum leaks....also slipped my mind. Check for these by ear. If you cannot hear them, this does not mean they are not present. Check all of the vacuum lines for cracks or holes by using a propane torch with the valve cracked open (obviously without the flame on...use PPE for god sakes too). Any increase in engine RPM and there's your leak

I know this sounds like alot to do, and it can be. But remember this is how we make our money and this is why the dealer charges a kings ransom for diagnosis. Start off by using the KISS method (Keep It Simple Stupid) and you'll be fine. Also...don't take this as "being talked down to", I don't want to come off as condescending but if this does, I apologize.

Good luck and God Bless

Justin

 

[neobart]

DIP Sh!ts<click and drag to the left

No, no no no no...... It's dipstick.

And did you check it?

 

[insaneatvs]

Rolex put a can of seafoam in the gas tank you can get it from Walmart, if not i have a can here...it will clean injectors/carb, removes Moisture from the fuel...just another thought fuel pressure?

 

[ohmygahitscoby]

I'm not sure if the link was posted here, but you should do what that one guy did to try and polish the inside of his engine by dumping a whole bag of sand down the engine.

I guess it wasn't:
http://www.audiforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=80267#693578

 

[joneser4u]

sounds like the fuel pump is going bad, or it was just water in the gas.

 

[Rolex]

It was absolutely pouring rain when I was out last night, so I'll still be checking the cap as the first suspect.
I'll be picking up some dry gas shortly and we'll see if it helps. The sun is finally out today after a week of solid rain, and I'm confident that it will start normally and run normally.

We'll soon see.

 

[SMaxxin]

I had an older GM car just kill when it got up to running temp, I don't remember the exact part (20 years ago) but it was something with the ignition. For a while it would restart once it cooled down but finally died and stayed dead.

Good luck with that Rolex.

 

[Rolex]

OOOhhhh, NOT good.
It started, but the idle did not drop in 15 or 20 seconds they way it always does after a cold start. I pulled out of my spot, and it lurched when I gave it gas. I stopped and did it again. Same lurch, so I decided to park it. In the process of turning it around, it stalled and would not restart. Just cranking strong, but not so much as a sputter. I got it rolled into a slot in the visitor's lot.

So, are we back to an ignition module? I'm now led to believe that there is a problem in a computer module since the idle remained at 1500.
That problem pretty much eliminates any theory of water or a cracked cap.
No 'check engine' light ever came on, and all the gauges read good.

 

[destrucktomaxx]

IAC valve. Those are tell tale signs, Rolex.

 

[insaneatvs]

Maybe even a bad TPS sensor (Throttle Position Sensor)

 

[Rolex]

I'm old school, and all these sensors just throw me.
I also realized that about a week ago my pedal was stubborn going from idle to accelerate. Even on the highway, after a coast, when it passed that first quarter inch, it would lurch. I'm starting to believe that it might very well be the IAC valve, and that was the first symptom of it starting to stick and fail.
Any truth to that?

 

[destrucktomaxx]

Try turning on the A/C and see if the engine RPM increases. If it does, the IAC is working properly, if it decreases then it is, of course, not operating properly.

The pedal itself is stubborn? Like sticky stubborn or like hard heade R/C car guru stubborn?

 

[geronimo]

start with the fuel pump, turn ur ignition on you should be able to hear it, kick on. if you do hear it, go to the fuel filter next. if fuel filter checks out ok. brain box is my next guess . pop the hood, its located on the drivers side fire wall. if the brain box goes bad, it will start ,run till it heats up(aprox 15 min). shut off and it will not start, till it cools of again.99% sure its nothing major, just a process of elimanation

 

[qaart]

have you cheacked the sparkplugs and your airfilter and might need to replace your fuel injectors usally if it stays at high idle it is the sparkplugs going bad. or some water got on part on the computer and shorted a wire

 

[ajames942]

have you cheacked the sparkplugs and your airfilter and might need to replace your fuel injectors usally if it stays at high idle it is the sparkplugs going bad. Or some water got on part on the computer and shorted a wire

qaart...use the . Key for f#*ks sake!

 

[abadk9420]

maybe this thunderbird belongs on a shelf

Or it could just need a good dusting, followed by a nice relaxing wax and polish job, so it will shine on the custom made shelf, LOL!!!!!

Really though I hope you figure out whats wrong with it, car problems suck!!!

 

[Webbage]

Yeh, whatever's wrong with it will probably buff out.