Which shock oil for Traxxas Slash 4x4?

[luke66]

Which of these should I use in a Slash 4X4?

Oils are from a Tekno SCT410.2, I got the set from Jenny’s.

(I’m a noob when it comes to oil/grease)

 

[DavidB1126]

The ones labeled "k" are diff oils. The 600 and 700 (cst) are shock oils. 700 would be thicker than 600. All depends what your doing with your car and what surface.

700 cst is 50wt associated oil
600 cst is 45 wt associated oil

On my 2wd I'm currently using 35 rear and 30 front. I like it best for the dirt track and bashing. Previously used 50wt on all 4, I liked that best on carpet and for street bashing.

I do use mostly associated oils so thats why I converted them, for myself.

 

[majin]

and how do you determine the best choice? so i can figure out which to put in my crawlers lol

 

[DavidB1126]

and how do you determine the best choice? so i can figure out which to put in my crawlers lol

I base mine off of these, and drivers setup sheets from the local tracks. So dialed RC is a huge help. For me atleast. Not sure about crawlers.

 

[tntpoof]

its all depends on what do you want your crawler to do .. if it was me Id have the thickest oil I could find in my crawler(never messed with a crawler and never will) iam a speed nut and a hardcore racer.always wanted my cars trucks to be able to go into a 180 and punch iy coming outa the turn and it grap the surface and pass the slowpoks..the jumps wanted to be able to go up a jump at half speed the last 3 feet of a 8" long table top hit the gas and jump ramp to ramp even pass guys in the air many thousands of time and track director and other said you could not pass in air I call bull droppings on that .

 

[bill_delong]

View attachment 196005
Which of these should I use in a Slash 4X4?

Oils are from a Tekno SCT410.2, I got the set from Jenny’s.

(I’m a noob when it comes to oil/grease)

20K and 10K are for the diffs

I would start with 20K for front/center and 10K for the rear

My preference is 10K front, 7K middle and 3K rear for my driving style

600CST and 700CST are for the shocks

There's a huge variable based on temps and piston hole sizes making it impossible to tell you what will work best. I'd start with 700 front and 600 rear then make tuning changes from there with the following guidelines to consider:https://storage.googleapis.com/sodi...-reference/hudy%20off-road%20setup%20book.pdf

 

[luke66]

Alright sweet. I’ll try 700 front 600 rear and see if I like it.

 

[ZaneC]

Alright sweet. I’ll try 700 front 600 rear and see if I like it.

I was gonna say 600, but that sounds pretty good. I use 30wt in my Bandit. Figured since the Slash is heavier, use heavier oil. That's my logic.

 

[luke66]

The truck did REALLY well with the 700F, 600R. But my shocks are junk and they leaked all over the place.

 

[DavidB1126]

But my shocks are junk and they leaked all over the place.

what shocks are you running? the stock plastic grey ones / ultra shocks?

 

[luke66]

Stock. I ran them without oil a while ago and destroyed the seals.

 

[ZaneC]

Stock. I ran them without oil a while ago and destroyed the seals.

Get some new ones off Jennys. Don't buy Amazon upgrade shocks. One of my buddies has some in his Slash and there're junk.

 

[TeknoJ]

and how do you determine the best choice? so i can figure out which to put in my crawlers lol

Testing and tuning. Trial and error.

Stock. I ran them without oil a while ago and destroyed the seals.

get the traxxas big bores. Great shocks for anything. I’d search eBay, Jenny doesn’t have them right now.

 

[bill_delong]

The truck did REALLY well with the 700F, 600R. But my shocks are junk and they leaked all over the place.

Did you apply fresh grease on the rubber seals?

I prefer to use the skewer method when packing my shock cartridges and I recycle clean oil into a dixie cup to pour back into shocks after rebuilding them:

• Maintenance Tips

***IMPORTANT NOTE ON GREASE PERFORMANCE***

 

[WickedFog]

and how do you determine the best choice? so i can figure out which to put in my crawlers lol

It varies from RC to RC, and person to person. On crawlers, you're not going to be flying across the parking lot and hitting 10th scale potholes. And shock oil is to soften the bumps. Not make your truck articulate. Go with something a little light, and you should be fine. 30wt or so should be good. I don't have a 10th scale crawler, so just taking a stab at it.

 

[luke66]

Did you apply fresh grease on the rubber seals?

I prefer to use the skewer method when packing my shock cartridges and I recycle clean oil into a dixie cup to pour back into shocks after rebuilding them:

• Maintenance Tips

***IMPORTANT NOTE ON GREASE PERFORMANCE***

View attachment 196126

No I didn't, but I've driven this truck with no oil in the shocks so I think I destroyed the seals.

 

[Tunedfrog]

It varies from RC to RC, and person to person. On crawlers, you're not going to be flying across the parking lot and hitting 10th scale potholes. And shock oil is to soften the bumps. Not make your truck articulate. Go with something a little light, and you should be fine. 30wt or so should be good. I don't have a 10th scale crawler, so just taking a stab at it.

You nailed it. I use the lightest I possibly can for my 1/10 crawlers and nothing but a drop to keep it lubed in my 1/24s.

 

[bill_delong]

No I didn't, but I've driven this truck with no oil in the shocks so I think I destroyed the seals.

I would encourage you to read the link I posted above on maintenance tips, while I recommend packing the bearings with fresh grease after every 2 hours of use, you can probably go 3-6 months before packing the seals on the shock cartridges... I still inspect the shock fluid and top off every 2 hours and/or refill with clean shock fluid if it's darker than milky gray... any hint of brown or darker and then it's time replace it... any accumulated dirt can cause the seals to break down faster. I have never had to replace any worn seals on any of my cars after many years of use, the key is proper maintenance

 

[WickedFog]

I would encourage you to read the link I posted above on maintenance tips, while I recommend packing the bearings with fresh grease after every 2 hours of use, you can probably go 3-6 months before packing the seals on the shock cartridges... I still inspect the shock fluid and top off every 2 hours and/or refill with clean shock fluid if it's darker than milky gray... any hint of brown or darker and then it's time replace it... any accumulated dirt can cause the seals to break down faster. I have never had to replace any worn seals on any of my cars after many years of use, the key is proper maintenance

Repacking the bearings every 2 hours? Why would you go through all that? That's some serious overkill there man. You get around 15000 miles or more on wheel bearings on a 1:1. And those aren't even sealed.

 

[bill_delong]

Repacking the bearings every 2 hours? Why would you go through all that? That's some serious overkill there man. You get around 15000 miles or more on wheel bearings on a 1:1. And those aren't even sealed.

You can go significantly longer on the hub bearings, but still a good idea to inspect regardless, the diff bearings absolutely need to be repacked every 2 hours if running on dirt, you can get away with longer run time if bashing on the street with no dirt present... it will take some trial and error to figure out a solid cleaning interval that works for you... 2 hours has been a necessity for my program for many years and I haven't had a single failed bearing yet.... I see failed bearings at the track all the time, first question I ask is when was the last time they cleaned and packed their bearings and I always get a response along the lines of "I didn't know I needed to clean and pack my bearings with grease", doh!

Hint, if the car is getting progressively louder and making screeching sounds, then I guarantee you've gone too long before inspecting your bearings