Which is better Heat Cycle or Factory Recommended Break-in?

[Çh®i§tiªñ]

I dont see why not - they are the same principals. Just bigger.

 

[Supernitro17]

i broke my .15fe in real easy ... and by break in real easy , i mean drive the balls off it right out of the box then replace it with a fantom , then replace the fantom with a 21bb , then replace that with a hyper 8port ... in my supernitro

i let all my engines idle for at least 8 tanks though (except the .15fe)

 

[SkyMaxx]

In theory, the heat cycle method will work regardless of the engine displacement. The real question shouldn't have to do with size, but with the material used on the internals. Depending on the metal and or ceramics used to create your piston and sleeve assembly as well as the conrod and drive shaft, the heat cycle method should work just fine...the temps may need to be adjusted to get a higher operating temp for some materials...but in this case size really doesn't matter.

 

[Scummer]

Break-in? You are supposed to break-in an engine? 8-0

 

[mcvickj]

Originally posted by Scummer
Break-in? You are supposed to break-in an engine? 8-0

I hope you are joking. You are supposed to break in a new engine or after a rebuilt to get maximum performance and life out of an engine.

 

[Scummer]

Originally posted by mcvickj


I hope you are joking. You are supposed to break in a new engine or after a rebuilt to get maximum performance and life out of an engine.

:jk: :wedgie:

I actually broke my engine in by running 1/2 throttle max and vary the speed. Run through 2 tanks like that. On the third tank i opened up a little more and actually went WOT for a few seconds. I guess the itch to go all out is just so haaaard to withstand.

Thomas

 

[uDi_MP7.5]

Originally posted by Nitroaddict
thats my philosophy too, mcvickj. If it aint broke, dont fix it.

I'm sticking to the original plan until someone from OS tells me otherwise, lol. Although, i would be willing to try it on some junk engine that i got for free or something, but not on my VO1B, lol!

How old is the heat-cycling method now? I mean by now, most of you guys should know that it is the best way to do things. Considering Bess was the guy that told me to get an 01B a long, long time ago on the rcca forums (and being a long term user of the mill himself....?), I think that his word on how to break the engine in should be adhered to pretty stickily.

NA - If you haven't already broken in, I STRONGLY suggest you follow the heat cycle method. My V01 is still going strong after 4 gallons, I can promise you it works. You might not trust me on that one, but so far everyone I know that has an V01 (and with half a brain) has followed the heat cycling method. And bessy of all people knows his stuff.

If you look at it, the OS instructions are kind of similar anyway.

To put it simply, fire the thing up, tuned just slightly rich, and drive it around from the first tank, and after each tank let it completely cool. Do whatever you have to do to keep the temps around 200, in most cases this means wrapping the engine head in alfoil for at least the first few tanks.

Also, lean out 1/16th of a turn or so every tank after the first. It is a much better practise than breaking in on rich settings, and then cranking it lean all at once. I believe the OS manual suggests this tip too.

 

[Darksyne]

EDIT: NM, started new thread

 

[Pete]

Hi I'm new on this forum, been reading the old threads and came upon this one! Some great stuff on here :yes:

I have a question (or 3): Using the heat cycle method for break in as typed above (run for 2-3 mins, shut engine down to cool etc) how many tanks can i expect to run?

You see I had a Sirio TX 18 this xmas, and it came with no LSN and HSN seetings or break in instructions whatsoever, I was wondering whether anyone would have a set of instructions they could put on the net, which are manifacturers break in instructions, or should I go ahead and try a heat cycle method?

Thing is, I'm very afraid that becuase I havent any break in instructions, i'll lean out the engine too soon and ruin it :depress: :nono:

Please, anyone that can help me out do!:coffee:

 

[scottm]

No problem Pete, welcome to the forum.

I have been prattling on about breakin for a while now. The heat cycle method is the way to go. I think the manufactureres are just timid about anything new, or maybe they are afraid some numb nut like Christian will put his whole truck in the oven!
Anyway, I made a break-in bench after the technique described in the Ultimate Nitro Tuning Guide. Here is a photo in my gallery:

Here is a link to the full story:

https://www.rcnitrotalk.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=2789&papass=&sort=1&thecat=500

Thier method is scary: they recommend heating it up and starting it and running it wide open, for 1 minute to 3 minutes, allowing to cool between runs. But after breaking in several engines in the last few months, I have developed a personal approach to this method. I don't think the propeller is necessary.

The real secret is to warm it up with a hair dryer or heat gun first. A new engine actually has an interference fit between the piston and sleeve, or less-than-zero clearance. If you start it and/or run it cold, a lot of material is worn off the piston immediately, and its life will be reduced. If you heat it first, the sleeve expands, allowing the parts to move freely.

First of all, get a temp measuring thing, like the Duratraxx ($25 US). Then heat your engine to, I'd say 180F+, start it and drive around at part throttle. Set the carb slightly rich, and maintain 180 to 200F. If the weather is cold, wrap foil around the head to keep the temp up. Run it for 1 minute five times, allowing it to cool completely each time. Then increase run times to 2 minutes, five times, then 3 minutes. After 45 minutes it should be done.

I did the full propeller break-in shown in that photo, and after 2 months my Picco 26 is still so tight it is hard to start when cold. In fact I still warm it up with a heat gun if it is less that 75 F.

 

[alkyula]

i did my first try at heat cycling with my xtm 24.7, and i swear i has more compression now then when it was new..i know thats impossible but the compression at 5 quarts is so much i still have to loosen the glow plug sometimes on cold starts, jsut so i dont feel like I'm going to tear up my pull start. i would highly recommend the heat cycle method for break-in. at first i felt like i was going to destroy my motor having never try'd it before, as i leaned it out enough to reach 200 degrees right off the bat, although never going over half throttle. so if its your first time heat cycling, its gona be very different from factory recommended break-in.

 

[scottm]

I know what you mean alkyula. Just try warming it up the next time before you start it, and you wont have to loosen the plug. I'm going to be driving later today, and we are in a cold snap (its in the low 50's - rough huh?) so I even warm up my old engines for easier starting.

 

[alkyula]

haha low 50's is awesome weather this time of year were I'm from...that is what were at for the next week and has been that way all x-mas break, normal weather for kansas this time year is about 10 degrees with a windchill factor of...hmmm-100 lol

 

[Akina'sMtx-2]

I'm surprise that no one has mention "lapping the piston" as a break-in proceedure yet...

When a new engine is produced and sold to consumers, the piston and sleeve are NOT a perfect fit, therfore you have to lap it to make a perfect fit. Attach a drill to the end of the crank, remove the head and apply Mothers Mag and Aluminum Polish in the piston and sleeve. Install the head like the way you would as running it, but WITHOUT the glow plug. Spin the engine clockwise untill you notice the polish turn into a grayish like color, reapply more polish and continue a few more time. After you are done laping the piston and sleeve, dissassemble the engine and clean everything with dish soap and warm water. After washed, dry all parts and assemble with after run oil. After you get everything together, break in the engine like you normally do, I like to do 4 tanks, just so the engine get use to the heat, expand, and contraction cycle.... You will notice the engine running cooler, seals a lot better, and greater upper range rpm.

 

[scottm]

Hmmm, I don't think thats in the owners manual either! It seems to me that will have the same effect as running it cold, where the tight sleeve will cause too much material to wear off the piston.

 

[SkyMaxx]

Ouch. That is pretty harsh treatment for the engine. The reason the piston and sleeve are such a snug fit when cold is that they expand when hot.

So a proper break in allows the piston and sleeve to grow together in the right conditions under "controlled" temps. At least that is the way it is supposed to work.

The reason your engine now runs cooler, is that you have lowered the combustion point or bumped the timing forward. This might be a good thing for you, but in the end you lose compression and the engine's life is shortened. Why? Because you have essentially changed the bore of the engine and thus the expansion of the internals is different.

This may work well on full sized cars...but I would be very careful before I did this to these little strokers.

 

[Akina'sMtx-2]

The engine ran 3 gallons and still, it had tight compression, even fully broken into. Denis Richie and rc boat racer have been using this type of break-in proceedure for years, with no problem. It was introduce to me by Maurice Davis, one of Denis Richies buddy or something. Now if your worry that it won't hold (seal), then thats a different story, however I agree to what you mean.

 

[30%NitroBoy]

Whaddup Akina's - Good info bro and I myself am suprised that I haven't seen it mentioned here before as their's lots of Hardcore nitro dudes here. So is this the same principal (I'd assume) as "Port polishing" on a standard combustion engine? I've port polished various engines over the years with good results but Nitro Vs. Standard combustion while similar in many ways can be profoundely different bro. My SUPER PRO mechanic father tripped the phuck out when I told gave him the Horsepower and RPM specs on various glow nitro engines.

Peace

 

[SkyMaxx]

Akina...when the engine reaches ten gallons without a rebuild and maintains the same compression...then brag about it.

As for the seal...I would see that as part of the problem also.

I don't argue the validity of the process. It does work, but if the engine lives the same life as a properly broken in version without this treatment...then you have something there.

Racer's have a different idea on engine life. Some trick them out for one race and then throw them away burnt up after one great race.

 

[Akina'sMtx-2]

Sorry, I have aready left the hobby, and the RB X12 that was lapped was sold. I'm not sure if the guy that purchased the engine still have the engine. As for how long the engine last, I'll help you fine out. Everyone have their own way of breaking-in their engine, so that "properly" break-in engine life span will vary. Also, those guys over at Crystal Park break in their engine cold, under 120 degrees, for the same amount of tank required for a factory break-in proceedure. Which I think it more harsh than the lapping process. Not much of those guy run the engine to the ground anyways, most are rebuilt after 4-6 gallons.