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wheel very loose/yet tight

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bondslayer

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I was jumping the revo through the corn ruts in a field and came to notice the back right wheel has more movement than the other three, the axle is TIGHT, as are the other bolts yet I can move this wheel 200% more than the other wheels and it wasn't like this. I've taken the wheel off, made sure the axle was tight and it was. Nothing from the apparent eye is broke, upper/lower arms, the rods etc. What gives? Here is a video of the slack.
th_40665e95.webp
 
Yes, they are 17mm. It still drives fine, I've also noticed a front wheel is acting the same way, is this common? Ever since the big block swap it seems something always is breaking, but then again I do drive it very hard.
 
17mm hex's on traxxas crappy threaded axles egg out the inside of the hex hub and causes a ridiculous amount of wobble over a very short time. Would be nice if they would finally buck up and offer some non-threaded axle outputs for us guys that run 17mm hubs on them. I mean, they sell the hubs! Why not sell the proper axle!?!?

I bought some new hex's off ebay, traxxas ones again... but have yet to bother installing them. I also bought a set of 17mm hubs/wheel nuts for the e-savage. It runs the same size axle as the traxxas rigs. The normal savage runs a larger axle where the hub runs, so don't buy just any HPI savage 17mm hubs if you want to try that route.
These are the ones that should work: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXSCH9&P=7

I run the normal HPI ones on my nitro savage and they work great on it.
That's these: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXMDB3&P=7
Notice how the inside is hollowed out a bit more than on the e-savage hubs.

I have yet to put those on either, but if I get a bug up my butt to run again anytime soon, I'll be installing the HPI ones before I run again as the wobble is horrible now. If I do install them, I'll post up a note on any difficulties I may have.
 
Glow plug washers work good behing those trx hubs, but it has to be done with care, using the correct washers.

Your pillow ball caps are probably loose, but like they said it could also be the bearings.
 
I noticed when I pulled the wheel off, and I pulled the axle taught, the outside bearing came out with the axle as it was taught.


Very good posts! Glad to know this is more of a common problem. I now have a front wheel acting the same way. I was blasting through a corn field and an entire tire came off and plugged up the exhaust causing it to die quiet a ways away from me. Fail. Having a crowd gather to watch is always nice!
 
As long as the crowd isn't a bunch of rc truck chasers, like the average 6 year old at my local village park.:p:
 
So today I took the wheels off. I was able to get quite a few twists on the allen heads that are on the hub and the wheels still wobble. Since i've gone through two sets of wheels already ( tearing the glued in part ) off from the tire itself I invested in these wheels/tires, look a lot more stable at high speeds.

http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=PRO116013

I still have the wobbly wheels, but finally a tire that will stay on the wheel!!
 
olds97_lss said:
Confused as to how to use the washers in this instance. Could you explain a bit more?
Click to expand...

Some washers are narrow enough to match up with the inner race on the outer wheel bearings. So I stick them in there and install the hub. It's not guaranteed, because you can get it too tight, but for me it worked great. It took about 50-75% of the wobble away from my e-maxx hubs.

I've been through alot of plugs over the years lol.
 

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