What's best sway bars for Maxx?

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Chevy-SS

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Any votes on the best sway bars for the 2.5 Maxx? My T is doin' some serious leaning in the turns. I have heavier shocks and springs on order, but I think sway bars might help.

Anybody had any experiences (good or bad) with sway bars?
 
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sway bars on a monster truck? do u have the Pro-line suspension kit, 2.5 maxx or the .15 orginal maxx. if u have the pro-line kit or the 2.5 u can adjust the supsension, probly moving the bottom of the shock out on the a-arm and on the top, move it in. also some rims with offset would also help. if u really want to u could put swaybars on, but personally i wouldnt. here is a link to a pair. http://www.2coolrc.com/swaybars.html

later
 
Yeah, those were exactly the sway bars I was looking at. Has anybody run these sway bars? http://www.2coolrc.com/swaybars.html

I ordered new Integy shocks and was gonna play around with springs, shock oil and positions. Thanks
 
Originally posted by Chevy-SS
Yeah, those were exactly the sway bars I was looking at. Has anybody run these sway bars? http://www.2coolrc.com/swaybars.html

I ordered new Integy shocks and was gonna play around with springs, shock oil and positions. Thanks

I've run these sways. I got them through fullforce http://www.fullforcerc.com/sway_bars.htm

I had a hard time keeping them together though. The fasteners are so small, it's hard to keep the threadlock out of the bushings.

Also, if you're using RPM towers, the body post will need an easy trim to clear the sways.

- bomber
 
bomber, did you notice a handling improvement after you put on those sway bars? Any comments (good or bad) on the performance of them would be appreciated.
 
I ran the dynamite sway bars on my T, they improved the on ground handling tremendously, I could jam it in a corner wot and the wheels would stay on the ground much better, however they really limit the suspension travel, so I took them off. I did not like them at all for jumping.
 
chevy-

They do exactly what they're suppose to do. Great design (I only had the one con about the threadlock). If you want to eliminate roll, these WILL do it.

They do absolutly nothing for jumping of course, but in the turns, it's either stiff as hell or flipping over. What more can I say? You do know how sways work right?

- bomber
 
yea, yea, I've been casually racing (drag racing, that is) real cars for thirty years, so I know how sway bars work. I've used big ones, small ones and sometimes none. It all depends on what you're trying to do.

I've only been messin' with electric and nitro RC vehicles for maybe six months (RC is much cheaper than real cars, almost as much fun and you don't get arrested every time you put pedal to metal).

I want to start racing in the T-Maxx or unlimited class. The track where I'll be racing does have some jumps, so I guess the the real question is; how do sway bars work in racing situations where the track is fairly technical AND has jumps??
 
Cool. So you understand what's happening with sways. I don't even want to think about how I'd try explaining that one in writing. back to business...

These sways didn't hinder suspension travel for me (bound nor rebound). The only thing I can think of where you might run into trouble is the shocks. As you can see in the advert pic, the shock and the sway have to share the same route through the upper control arm. If your shocks are larger than stock, this could be a problem.

Additionally, the sway fastens to the lower control arm the same as a shock would, so this limits the number of lower shock positions you can use.

I ran the shocks (with RPM towers) on the inside and the sways on the outside. I don't think I'd be wrong to say that they must run with this setup.

As with most suspension setups, experience is the only way to get it tuned the way youull need it for racing. I suggest you take the gamble with these sways and buy 'em. You plan on just running them up front?

I'm out of town right now, but I'll see if I've got a set to spare this weekend. I've already sold one set, and I know the other's stowed away somewhere.

- bomber
 
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I have the Pro Line low/wide suspension kit on my Tmaxx. I just finished breaking in the 2.5 engine that replaced my stock .15.
I wanted to lower it some more, so I got 4 Ofna shocks and assembled them last night. (part #18933) $40 a pair. I installed a pair on the front, but didn't do the rear yet. I filled them with 35 weight oil, which made them very slow to return, so I knew I'd have to go with a 10 weight oil, or drill a larger hole in the piston.
Having installed them only in the front, with the other 6 shocks stock, it had a slick nose down attitude which looked really good with the Hum-V body. Just for grins I decided to take it for a spin to see how badly it would behave, and WOW, it went where I put it. Stiff short throw on the front, long throw soggy rear. It was amazing. I ran on rough gravel, dusty red clay, grass and asphalt and was impressed all the way around. I was about to go for the sway bars, but I don't think they could make it any better than it is right now. Now what do I do with the other 2 Ofna shocks?
 
Are the Ofna shocks a different length (shorter)? I can understand getting more steering by lowering the front, but I would not think it is wise to mix lengths of shocks. I think that will put an extra burden on certain shocks. But if it is handling better, then perhaps it is worth it. ;-)

I plan to lower mine using different, stiffer springs and/or perhaps stops in the shocks. Maybe I will add sway bars if that ain't enough to make the corners. I have yet to actually race the Maxx, so I am curious to see what will happen. Plus, I will be looking carefully at other setups of the fastest guys.
 
Yes, the Ofna shocks are shorter, that's why I got them. About 3/8 of an inch shorter, maybe a little less. I'd say it lowered the nose close to 3/4". With the flat roof Hum-V, I'm sure I'm also getting some good aerodynamic down force working there too. When I put the 2 on the front, I also removed the spacers from the stock Tmaxx shocks up front, otherwise I figured it would have handled with all the comfort of a cinder block.
One thing I noticed today......high speed, down a narrow paved driveway is not a good thing to do. The steering is SO responsive that's it's hard to keep it in a straight line. Even with reverse, I had to do several walks to yank it out of shrubs with both hands. You know, those magnetic shrubs that grab it and hold it 8" above the ground.
However, on gravel, dirt and grass, it's intense.
 
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