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What would cause a engine not to start?

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aaron030886

RCTalk Qualifier
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Location
Evansville Indiana
RC Driving Style
  1. Bashing
not to start sometimes? Because it always starts the first time I take it out, but when I run it for a few, and I stop the truck, it will shut off, and not want to start very well again afterwards. I have to pull and pull, and it just does no good. I've already gone through 2 pull starts. The first just pulling too hard, and the second, which I just got the other day, pulling it out to far and know its not spring loaded anymore. (the second time I was just frustrated) Any ideas on what's going on? I tried adjusting the hsn, from the factory settings, but didn't seem to work. Would the igniter maybe be bad?
 
I've been having the same problems. I'm no help, but I do recomend a drill start. Instead of pulling for 20 minutes, you just drill for a while.:p:
 
Wich truck/engine do you have?

Himoto Mega P MXT-2S "18 CXP Japan Engine"

I've been having the same problems. I'm no help, but I do recomend a drill start. Instead of pulling for 20 minutes, you just drill for a while.:p:


I'm just thinking about getting a brand new truck with a *Easy Start!* :D Truck of choice will soon be seen on here! lol ;)
 
Do you always put your piston at BDC (bottom dead center) when you stop for even a little while? And i would recommend a rotostart(or an easy start) backplate instead of pullstart. Just my opinion...
 
Do you always put your piston at BDC (bottom dead center) when you stop for even a little while? And i would recommend a rotostart(or an easy start) backplate instead of pullstart. Just my opinion...

Not sure what your talking about, when you say, "Do you always put your piston at bottom dead center when you stop?" Not sure what you mean. Do you mean the throttle?
 
Not sure what your talking about, when you say, "Do you always put your piston at bottom dead center when you stop?" Not sure what you mean. Do you mean the throttle?

The piston at the bottom of his stroke, unscrew your plug and look in it. you see the top of the piston, turn your flywheel until you see your piston all the way down...thats bottom dead center. You should do this and use After run oil after you done bashing for awile, that will help your engine last longer.
 
I find that if I don't prime enough I'll be sweatin' like I was melting trying to get that thang to cranck... but I'm a newb at it anyways so my advice probably don't help lol.
 
The BDC thing is irrelevant IMO. How much use has this engine had? Sounds to me like your engine worn/low on compression when hot.

I havent used it that much, just been breaking it in.

I find that if I don't prime enough I'll be sweatin' like I was melting trying to get that thang to cranck... but I'm a newb at it anyways so my advice probably don't help lol.

Thats a good point
 
The BDC thing is irrelevant IMO. How much use has this engine had? Sounds to me like your engine worn/low on compression when hot.

Hate to say this buy usually when a nitro engine runs fine cold and after it's warmed up won't re-start, it's because of a lack of compression.:

yeah buddy. These fellas are hot on the money. I've been through this as well. Started fine, ran well, but once I shut 'er down it was impossible to restart unless it sat for 20 minutes or more. Just like these guys are saying, when the engine is hot, everything is expanding, most importantly the sleeve. If the engine won't restart when the the sleeve is up to temp and expanded the most likely cause is a lack of compression. The sleeve worn. I would say it's time for a pinch, new sleeve, or new engine.
 
It means your engine's lifespan has been met. There are a couple options. You can have the sleeve pinched (this is the most cost effective option). You can purchase a new sleeve, or you can purchase a new engine. This is just a part of the hobby. Nitro engines are not intended to run forever, they will wear over time due to the nature of the design. However, with proper upkeep and good tuning you can extend the life of your engine. My first nitro engine that I expired did not last very long due to improper tuning. Completely my fault, but it was a learning experience. Fortunatly it was not a high end engine. I still do not purchase high end engines because I'm not 100% comfortable tuning them. I'm still learning so I buy entry level stuff. I recently purchased a new engine (to replace the old one I spoke of) for my 1/8 buggy. It's an entry level engine by a reputable manufacturer. I can't wait to see what she's got :)
 
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k.. look ..first of..next time you run it,warm it up and shut it down then take your glow plug out and get it glowing with your igniter...if it doesn't light up almost right away .it might be just your glow plug that is dying or you drowned the engine..if the plug wire is wet it wont heat up right and you wont be able to restart till you put a new plug or wait till its dry,

if your glow plug dry and lights good, then chek your engine pinch..to do so wait till your engine has cooled completely then try to turn the flywheel, at some point the flywheel should become pretty stiff to turn, if it doesn't ,that means your engine wont hold the compression when it gets hot ....change the sleeve and piston and re-break-in the engine after your rebuilt

also always put the piston at BDC so when your engine cools down ,it doesn't seize
 
at least your engine works my engine blew up and its only 5days old with 7tanks
 
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