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WHAT THE f***ING h*LL!

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pissant

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OK NOW IAM PISSED OFF!! my damn engine keeps stalling on me and i dont know why, this has happened to all of my rc cars and every new rc car. my temp only gets up to about 240-250 degrees so i dont think thats it. i can't get through a WHOLE DAMN TANK without it stalling. i have gotten a primeless tank, new glowpulgs, checked my fuel line for any holes, redid the breaking in procedure, took it in to hobbytown usa and they said they fixed it, but still doing the same thing. I have had 3 other nitro cars and they did the exact thing, what the hell am i doing so wrong, i am so pissed i could take my truck and throw it against the WALL! :angry: :angry: :doh: :doh:
 
First of all,, calm down! Put the car away for the night and come back to it tomorrow, you may not have done anything wrong at all, but if you dont settle down and give it a rest, you will never have the patience to figure it out! I'm serious,, put it away for now, I am sure you have too much invested to get all pissed off and ruin it out of frustration.
 
yesi have and the high and the low needle, i am so confused, i love my car and i want it to WORK!
 
What exactly is it doing?

Is it belching smoke and stalling?
Is it idling fine, then when you nail it, it dies?
Does it just up and die when you're running around?
Have you checked the temp with another temp gun or the spit test?
What possesed you to take it to hobbytown?
When you switched up tanks, did you readjust the needles?
What fuel are you running?

We want to help, but ya gotta calm down first, take a deep breath and listen to what your rides are trying to tell you. If you have 4 engines doing the same thing, then there's something systematic going on.

When I replaced my old gen 1 tank with the new primerless one, I had to retune the LSN and the HSN on my Picco 26. One other member on here had a temp gun that wasn't adjusted right (came like that from the factory and was giving false readings). You don't want my take on Hobbytown. And I used to run Byron Fuel, but it made my engines run like crap (real hot crap) and they too would be lucky to get past a half tank run.
 
LOL, Kuddos for the being the first person of any forum genre that I've seen start a thread with the phrase "What THe F***ING h*ll. I'm sure your upset and I'd be upset if I was in your situation but don't have a freak attack and throw your cars and trucks in the street or something.

Well, THe first thing you may be doing wrong is going to HobbyTown usa. I've heard more chit about them in the past month then any RC dealer on the planet. Their's a plethora of possibilites as you need to give everyone more information...PLEASE. The fact that this "has happend" to all your cars and every new car makes me wonder.

If hoobyTownUSA said they fixed in and it's still giving you problems, I would never give them your buisness again. Honest hobby shops seem to be getting rare now-a-days and many seem to take advatage of the fact that many in this hobby and young and often nieve.
 
ok iam calming down. well i can get my truck up to full speed, it starts fine, idles great, but when it hits the half-way mark on the tank it bogs alittle and just stalls on me, i am using blue thunder 20%. i thought the primeless tank woulde be the cure, but i was wrong. i dont think my temp gun is wrong (duratrax blue thing from towerhobbies) what could be the prob. it only happens when i lean it out, but if i dont lean it out i can't get full speed and spits out a crap load of gas.
 
Being that this occurs at a marked level of fuel, I'd suggest checking the tank for a possible crack (right around the half-way mark).

Next, you mentioned that this same phenomena occurs with each of your RCs. IF this is the case, are you running them all with fuel filters? If so, when was the last time you cleaned the fuel filters out? Partially clogged to all the way clogged fule filters will cause an engine to run lean; and near half a tank on a self leaning fuel system, that lean condition will turn into a fuel starved engine (ie it will stall).

Next, I would take a look at the lengths of fuel tubing you are using between pipe and tank and then the tank and carb. If these lines are too long (longer than say 10 inches) you will run into an engine that wants to run lean all the time because the fuel system can't pressurize to the level it needs to in order to keep the fuel flowing to the engine.

After checking those not so obvious things, I'd start to look for obvious problems. Like clogged or damaged needles on the carbs. Air leaks anywhere. There are any number of possibilities.
 
so it could be a problem if i dont have a fuel filter at all? becuase i dont have one could this be my source that could be cuasing this?
 
That could certainly cause problems. Do you have fuel filters on any of your rides?

If not, get some.

What happens when you do not run with one:
1. Grime from the exhaust air that pressurizes the system gets into the fuel.
2. This now grime laden fuel heads for the carb.
3. The carb tries to atomize the fuel for use in the engine and that grime starts to gunk up the HSN.
4. After a while, that gunk build up creates a fuel starved or ultra-lean condition and the engine will eventually stall when there is insufficient pressure to force the fuel into the carb (ie when the tank is half full).

At this point, I'd pull the carb off and take a look at your HSN assembly for crud and blockage.
 
Maybe you should try a pressurize valve which fits in the fuel line between the pipe and the fuel tank. Tower has them for $6. By Fourmost product #138. I have one by haven't had a chance to test it yet. $6 I quess its worth a try.
 
Originally posted by killahbz
Maybe you should try a pressurize valve which fits in the fuel line between the pipe and the fuel tank. Tower has them for $6. By Fourmost product #138. I have one by haven't had a chance to test it yet. $6 I quess its worth a try.
Click to expand...

I don't recommend pressure valves or one way valves for these engines. Great way to flood the engine.

Originally posted by pissant
how the heck do i take the HSN off?
Click to expand...
Near the base of the HSN, there should be a portion that resembles a hex nut. You can use a set of needle nose pliers to grasp that portion of the HSN assembly and unscrew it from the carb housing. Once you get it started it should unscrew pretty easily; it's the getting it started part that is often difficult, due to the sealant that most manufacturers use on their carbs.
 
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once i do take it off, should i use locktite on it to get the seal?
 
Nope...wouldn't chance getting any of that inside the carb.

You can pick up some carb sealant at your LHS. It is cheap and effective.
 
Originally posted by SkyMaxx
Nope...wouldn't chance getting any of that inside the carb.

You can pick up some carb sealant at your LHS. It is cheap and effective.
Click to expand...

Yep and good advice from SkyMaxx as usual. It wouldn't hurt to seal your actual carb while your @ it. It doesn't happen often but I've had factory engines over the years with air leaks and over time IME a carb can leak.

CIAO
 
I know it's frustrating when your motor is running badly, but in your original posting you stated that all four of your cars are doing this. I don't want to sound mean but I think your going to have to go back and rethink the way you've been setting up and tuning your vehicles. Statistics seemed to be against all four motors having the exact same problem. Your profile shows your from Colorado, so altitude, and weather might have alot to do with some of your problems, you probably won't be able to get your vehicles screaming, as you did during better weather periods. Relax, and good luck.
 
Who ever knew you could find such decent info on a thread labeled "WHAT THE f***ING h*LL!" :hehe:

Just wanted to throw in my 2 cents. If you have had this same problem on other engines we need to look at commonalities. Things in common could be your tuning style, your fuel, geographical region (of course), etc, etc.

I'd like to concentrate on fuel for just a moment. Any chance you got a little water in the fuel? I've done this, and it was highly frustrating for 2 tanks until I figured out. It exibited stalling characteristics and a dependancy on the glow plug ignitor - just like a bad glow plug would. I changed the glow plug out to no avail. Later that evening, I saw a thread by a nitro plane guy saying a little water in the fuel would exhibit the same symptoms as a bad glow plug. HMM. Well, I was running in the light rain lately and got a few drops in the fuel jug. Anyway, after changing to the new gallon AND nursing my ride with the ignitor (running around with it still on), I was able to get through that crummy stage and have had no more problems since.
 
well i took the carb off my truck and i did not find any dirt but i air sprayed it so if there was any dirt inside. my question is where do i seal it when i put it back in do i do around the carb or the threaded part? also i checked my tank and fuel line for any crackes or leakes, did not find any. i bought a new air filter and a fuel fitler from towerhobbies so i should see that in a week.i hope this helps becuase i am out of ideas.

also what should i do if i want to seal my tank, what can of seal should i put on it?
 

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