Kris407
RCTalk Talkaholic
i need to replace the eight shocks on the Savage X 4.6 so whats the best for my buck?
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Why do you "need" to replace them? I have been using the stockers, with the black springs, for over 10 years, with no issues at all with them.
Surlyman
RCTalk Basher
Depends on what you do with your truck. I'm currently doing the same thing on the same truck, I settled on the factory plastic big bores for bashing. There is a seller on that one auction site that is selling un-assembled new kits for $10.50+$5 shipping. Just ordered a set myself. Includes factory oil too but thats going in the tool box haha
Edit: Nvm those are the smaller sized one, YIKES hope they can cancel my order. Swear I checked the PN. Oh well.
Edit: Nvm those are the smaller sized one, YIKES hope they can cancel my order. Swear I checked the PN. Oh well.
Last edited:
Kris407
RCTalk Talkaholic
- Thread starter
- #4
half are bent at the bottom.
i have no complaints on the stock ones but i figured i'd check on here before i purchased anything.
i have no complaints on the stock ones but i figured i'd check on here before i purchased anything.
Kris407
RCTalk Talkaholic
- Thread starter
- #5
Factory shocks it is.. i found 4 for $25. thanks guys.
WoodiE
Kind of good admin
Administrator
Nothing wrong with factory shocks, sounds like a good price too.
Kris407
RCTalk Talkaholic
- Thread starter
- #7
The Savage i bought has eight shocks and the ones i got are four "big bore" shocks that were taken off a newer XL. From the info i read they will work in place of the eight old ones.and i like the idea of only sevicing four as opposed to eight since i am just starting with MT's and i am gonna try a few different weight oils. does that sound good?
Surlyman
RCTalk Basher
That is the upside to the big bores, they also have dual rate springs and the shafts are less likely to bend.
The oil shipped in the kits or pre-filled shocks is equivalent to 30wt per HPI's manual. Many use 35-40wt.
The oil shipped in the kits or pre-filled shocks is equivalent to 30wt per HPI's manual. Many use 35-40wt.
Kris407
RCTalk Talkaholic
- Thread starter
- #9
that's the info i'm looking for, thanks. 40wt was where i was leaning but i am gonna wait and see how these pre-filled ones feel. They are brand new so i figure it will be a gallon or so of fuel before i service and refill them 
also where is the best spot to install a fuel filter?
also where is the best spot to install a fuel filter?
Kris407
RCTalk Talkaholic
- Thread starter
- #10
Here they are:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/141560123215?_trksid=p2060778.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
I paid $25.64 + $5 shipping
http://www.ebay.com/itm/141560123215?_trksid=p2060778.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
I paid $25.64 + $5 shipping
Surlyman
RCTalk Basher
Nice score, they have now increased to $31.99+shipping.
As for fuel filter placement, idk if there really is a best way but this is how I have mine, mounted with some highly engineered race-ties.
Some run it in front of the tower, typically the shorter the line the better, but over all, my line is not much longer than stock and it sorta shields the filter body from engine heat. The longer the line, the longer the truck can run upside down (and I like to jog rather than sprint) With that said, some have almost entirely eliminated the half-tank lean condition by simply rotating the fuel inlet on the carb towards the tank and running a short direct line across the back of the carb to it. One could place a filter in that line as well.
I use these small Dubro filters that I added in bulk onto a Tower order awhile back.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFRL5
They would fit practically anywhere, and they have a handy little optional "in-line plug" that allows one to disconnect the line from the tank and loop it back to the plug to close the fuel system for storage or w/e. It also makes for a good mounting post.
As for fuel filter placement, idk if there really is a best way but this is how I have mine, mounted with some highly engineered race-ties.
Some run it in front of the tower, typically the shorter the line the better, but over all, my line is not much longer than stock and it sorta shields the filter body from engine heat. The longer the line, the longer the truck can run upside down (and I like to jog rather than sprint
) With that said, some have almost entirely eliminated the half-tank lean condition by simply rotating the fuel inlet on the carb towards the tank and running a short direct line across the back of the carb to it. One could place a filter in that line as well.I use these small Dubro filters that I added in bulk onto a Tower order awhile back.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFRL5
They would fit practically anywhere, and they have a handy little optional "in-line plug" that allows one to disconnect the line from the tank and loop it back to the plug to close the fuel system for storage or w/e. It also makes for a good mounting post.
Kris407
RCTalk Talkaholic
- Thread starter
- #12
Thats what i was thinking about the fuel filter and i like the use of the zip tie. Thanks for posting the pics now i am glad i asked
Factory 8 shock setup works fine for most, but I like running a different fuel tank than stack, so running the big bores works better for me as it gives me more room in front of the tower for a different tank. I have to say, it seems a lot better with 4 big bores than it did with 8 standard shocks though. I can still jump to the moon all day long without damage and it handles really well in general.
Kris407
RCTalk Talkaholic
- Thread starter
- #15
I agree.. Although i use the factory fuel tank, i think the big bores perform much better.
