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Alexander_0_1

Alexander_0_1

"Roads, where we're going we don't need roads"
Messages
2,301
Reaction score
77
Points
695
Location
Frog Lake A.B Canada
RC Driving Style
  1. Bashing
Um..it sits on an arm bolted to the outside of the TVPs left side of truck, has a little wire/arm connected from it to the carb, and then to the servo for throttle, also runs to the brake linkage on a separate wire/arm.

I've seen the rcaddic build and I'm hoping for..?..less parts more of a simple look
I'm also mounting my throttle servo by the engine
 
Its called a servo arm or horn. Make sure you get one with the correct tooth count for you servo. Hitec is 24 tooth and futaba, savox, and traxxas are all 25 tooth.
 
Thanks but, the L-shaped piece I'm wondering about is already connected to the truck/stock it's part of the throttle/brake linkage.....I'm wondering if it can be omitted, arm and L-shaped....swivel?
 
They actually call it a throttle mix arm. On eBay you can get them in purple,blue and silver.

Without relocating the servo,I don't see it being able to be omitted.
 
Thanks guys I ordered the whole FLM kit, extended LCG TVPs, extended a-arms, bulks, towers, and tower stand-offs servo plate motor plate, skid plate...so I guess I will be relocating the throttle/brake servo... Not sure how to mount the batteries, and receiver box (not sure what to use)

I might just build myself a fuel tank... or hoping for to find something around the 300cc mark.

I'm also trying to mount 8 LST shocks (2 per corner) just for fit cause if they do then I probably can mount 8 I-RC shocks..not sure about the type though I thought it'd be cool to use the V3 baja front shocks....I know a bit to much but I've started another camp job run, and I'm using the isolation/sub/living allowance for fun this time around....I'm hoping to have a motor by the end of July-middle of August.
 
Your both right the piece you have is in his pic just to the far right, but made out of plastic w/o alloy arm.

Is the problem with mounting 8 LST shocks clearing the steering linkage?....can there be spacers

So far the A-arms give 1/2 in clearance, and I'm also using XL axles (purple spacer angers me...I hate purple)
Now I just need a good off-set tire/rim combo
 
Thanks I'm going to try that later on today

Back to my L-shaped thingie!, can it be omitted once I move my throttle servo, I like the idea of the L-shaped servo horn, also what are some good linkage parts for said application.

---------- Post added at 1:11 PM ---------- Previous post was at 1:07 PM ----------

Also I'd like to replace the steering servo linkage...the lil piece that connects the servo horn to the steering assembly.
 
some ideas for ya

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flm extended tvp builds are nice but a real PITA.
1: X or XL bodies wont fit without new holes or 1 different mount setup. i designed and made my own mount using some integy parts and a piece of bar aluminum. it needs to be straight and not have the curves in order to fit an XL body(can see the mount in above pictures)
2: extended arms look awesome, but finding a long enough turnbuckle to work for the steering sucked. need 4mm x 90mm with lots of thread room. the $30 lunsford set i bought were the right length, but werent threaded far enough to work for those arms. stock xl turnbuckles work, but i have never run the truck and theres not alot of threads holding the ends, so i just know they work for a bench-queen.
3; you could get away with using the throttle hooked directly to the carb linkeage, i was going to go that way, but i didnt like the look and i couldnt figure out how to hook the brakes to the set-up, so i opted for the integy mount and mixer arm with backwards linkeages.
4: i found that Traxxas rustler electronics box worked real nice for a savage application bolted to the flm upright and the battery zippy-tied to the top.
5; i never did find a tank i liked so i opted for the stocker mounted in between the frame plates using those turnbuckle like things that came with the fames as the mounts with the tank stightly tilted to the rear and the draw side facing the rear. again untested as i have never run the truck. but with the step on the bottom of the tank, i found that it made plenty of room for the steering assembly and horn to move. the step is partially below the carb inlet so on a wild guess, there wouldnt be much half-tank lean

one of these days i will fire it up and rund a couple tanks through it to test everything. lots tied up in this build and would sure hate to destroy it. am working on a four wheel steer savage project right now using as many flm parts that they make for savage. also you can see my dual-rate spring shock mod on last picture using Tmaxx springs around the shock shaft. SUPER stiff
 
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Dam dude I like the orange, can I help myself to some of the ideas you've got going

Where you used orange I think I'll use blue, I'm trying to find a place that will anodize my FLM parts in orange.
 
Alexander_0_1 said:
Dam dude I like the orange, can I help myself to some of the ideas you've got going

Where you used orange I think I'll use blue, I'm trying to find a place that will anodize my FLM parts in orange.
Click to expand...

He's never ran this truck, imo that truck is nice and shiny but that will not hold up to much abuse. Op do you plan on using your savage or do you want a shelf queen? If you plan on using your savage, stay close to stock with some upgrades. Stay away from Integy except the rear tie rod eliminators, keep aluminum up the middle, extended great, making it wider great, but why didn't you just buy an xl. As for anodizing remember function over fashion, or maybe take a look at gpm at asiatees.com instead of Integy. Great hobby but for a beginner you seem to be getting in way over your head, and remember Google is your friend.

Just noticed in another thread you have the savage suspension conversion set so you have no need for Integy at all so just stay away all together now.
 
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Um thanks for your input, wacmartin. I do have an XL I like it so much that I couldn't bring myself to use any of the parts off it, for this project. so I decided to build one, as for extreme abuse that's what my stock X and XL are for, even my old 25 is sent to my gravel pit.....I do have every intention of running this build, I mean what's the point of building it, if you won't run it!
The aluminum trans case is to handle the added rotation of putting a modded engine in, at some point ya gotta realize that a plastic trans case will start to warp more than an alloy one especially with added power
Stock parts I'm keeping are skid plates, bumpers, turnbuckle ends, just so there's is some sort of breaking point if I hit something! Big IF!...there's a reason I don't R/C in the street there's not enough damn room!

---------- Post added at 10:57 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:50 PM ----------

With the 1/2" extension on the a-arms, the 1/2" offset of the trenchers, and how ever long the XL axles I'm using are. I think I've got an 1"+ on the widening aspect, and the 40mm longer TVPs.

---------- Post added at 11:07 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:57 PM ----------

That HPI conversion set is going on my low slung savage project, can't use it here! They're outta stock almost everywhere I looked for another one
 

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