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Dave29

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  1. Bashing
gonna try the heat cycleing method instead have decided to make the lsn more rich and try again with the axial 28 spec2 break in have emailed axial to see if they can help after all they made it lol please check my earlier post and let me know if you have any ideas Cheers guys

:\
 
First thing to do is a complete sealing on the engine. The post at the top of the nitro forum explains sealing in detail. Best way to break an engine in is to drive it. Temps between 200-220, run it easy for 2-3 minutes, shut it off and put the piston to bottom dead center, and let it cool all the way down. Do this over and over again, for 5-7 tanks of gas. Running it a little harder as you go. There's a better explanation; somebody will pop in. Letting the engine idle through a tank is an old, outdated method that doesn't do anything except stress the engine internals, due to the stress of the mill running at low temps.
 
Yes it's gotta be over 200, I partially wrap the head too sometimes, that way I can richen the hsn a little more. It helps to flush out the aluminum 'dust' that new engines make.
 
any ideas why it revs high at idle and wont stop engaging the clutchit nearly disengages but if i drop it any lower it stalls is it still too ritch cos it aint getting up to those temps
 
yeah!!

had it running properly now had it up to 200+ it briefly went over 275f which it says is bad in the engine manual there is lots of blue smoke though and i was blipping up to half throttle did that for a total of half hour with cooling breaks not included in time so 30 mins driving time have started to lean it out a bit as i can turn flywheel by hand and it is not sticking at the top but when i ran it fast it seemed to get too hot again there is still blue smoke and it is not any where near screaming at full rpms what am i doing wrong or is it just a fine tuning thing?????:\
 
Have you sealed it? Good smoke and high temps is a good indication of an air leak. Or the lsn is too lean. The engine should drop a degree every 4-5 seconds at idle. If the temps are rising at idle, richen the lsn in 1/16th turn intervals. Edit: Mechanical pinch(friction from the higher rpms) may be the cause of the temp spike. I'd still seal it asap.
 
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I'm gonna seal it

i hope you guys are right about sealing the engine will it void my warranty and will it definatly sort all problems out . Also when i run the engine hard do i still have to make sure the temp dosent go over 275f as it says in the manual or is this just for run in temps as I'm not sure what these engines heat up to also does the glow plug make the engine run hotter as I'm running medium plugs in the uk
 
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