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What do I need for a bulletproof tranny?

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Chevy-SS

Chevy-SS

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I put a Picco .26 in my race Maxx. It is fast as Hell, no doubt about that. I took it to the track after breaking in the engine and promptly stripped the primary forward gear in the tranny upon landing a big jump. The tranny already has the FOC, but what else should I do to beef it up? Any ideas would be appreciated. I am gonna do the RRP aluminum forward primary gear, for starters. Although, I have heard that aluminum gears, upon wearing, will produce metallic dust which will grind up the tranny.

Anybody with experience building a stout T-Maxx tranny, please give me the recipe. :help:
 
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An alum case is not a necessity as far as I'm concerned. In the long run it may keep a bit of flex out but I have never seen a case brake from torque.

Your money is best spent getting RRP gears. Get everything they have in either Alum. or steel your choice but its best not to mix.

A frequently over looked item is the slipper setup. Get the RRP double slipper and you will eliminate a huge amount of un needed torque in the transmission. I have found for the .21 and above that the (E)-Maxx slipper setup works the best.

-Ed
 
I have already installed the RRP double disk slipper in steel. I am currently in the process of installing the RRP FOC and the 2 speed top shaft both in steel. I am using the stock case. In addition, I am awaiting the arrival of a set of Kippster alum diff cups with the modified RRP ring gear combo. I will be using the stock housings and bevel gears. To finish it all off, I am also getting a set of Team Blue Star Bearings.

Hopefully all this will bulletproof my tranny and diffs.
 
That is the exact same setup I have been running in my CyberMaxx for a year now. I have never even had the need to take the diffs or the transmission apart from the time I upgraded and they are all still as tight as a ..... Fill in the blanks.
 
Originally posted by TAKE/it/TO/the/MAXX
just keep upgrading it and shooting it

when the bullet doesn't come out the other side

then there you go
Click to expand...

That was extremely helpful.
Now that we have your input we are all the more wise on how to upgrade our transmissions.

-Ed
 
Originally posted by FastEddy


That was extremely helpful.
Now that we have your input we are all the more wise on how to upgrade our transmissions.

-Ed
Click to expand...

it was a joke

but I'm glad you found it helpful i only meant it to be funny
 
Originally posted by TAKE/it/TO/the/MAXX


it was a joke

but I'm glad you found it helpful i only meant it to be funny
Click to expand...

I thought it was just :spam
 
Thanks for tips gents. I stripped the gear when the truck landed off a jump. I'm gonna guess it was the stress of the front wheels hitting first, then, with no center diff to allow slippage, the shock of the wheels biting into dirt is transmitted to the next this along the drive line, which is the forward primary gear.

I will certainly add the parts you guys suggest, including the RRP double slipper, but does anyone have any experience with a center diff? Does anyone make one?
 
I don't believe there is a center diff available unless to do some sort of a mutant conversion.

The slipper is designed to absorb the shock mentioned above. Proper adjustment is a must. This is how I adjust mine. I'm sure there are 1000 ways to do it but it works for me.

Use red fingernail polish and put a dot on the spur where you can see it. Loosen the spur up so it easily slips. Place your truck forward facing against a wall. With your radio, give the throttle a heavy blip about .5-.75 % the slipper should have a large amount of slip. The red dot on the spur should have spun around several times and the truck should not have tried to climb the wall.

Adjust the slipper until you get approximately 1/4 turn looking at the red dot when you apply the throttle. The truck shouldn't climb the wall.

This is a good place to start. It should never be any tighter than this. As a weak link I prefer 1-2 revolutions of the spur. If you feel all the power isn't getting to the ground you can tighten it up but never let it get to tight as to where it doesn't spin and will climb the wall.

As the slipper gets older it wont be as smooth. Keep this in mind and adjust it as needed. In conjunction with a metal gear rebuild you shouldn't have any more transmission woes.

I hope this helps
 
Originally posted by FastEddy
Adjust the slipper until you get approximately 1/4 turn looking at the red dot when you apply the throttle. The truck shouldn't climb the wall.
Click to expand...
That is a great way to do it but I got lost on the above portion. You did a complete flyby.
 
Originally posted by robmob
In addition, I am awaiting the arrival of a set of Kippster alum diff cups with the modified RRP ring gear combo. I will be using the stock housings and bevel gears.

Hopefully all this will bulletproof my tranny and diffs.
Click to expand...

I'm getting the same set-up, but I was wondering if the RRP gears were more durable than the 2.5 ring gears. I read on a forum once that the 2.5's were better.
 
When you blip the throttle, the spur should turn 1/4th of a revolution.
This is the tightest you will want it, never any tighter. This is the maximum tightness setting
 
I installed a metal RRP forward primary gear and the tranny works great again. Without a doubt, my slipper is set too tight. I will do as you say to adjust. I am still using the stock slipper setup with 12 pegs and 72t RRP metal spur, but I will upgrade to full RRP slipper on the next Tower hobby order.

Thanks
 

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