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What clutch doesn't slip with a 21?

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olds97_lss

olds97_lss

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  1. Bashing
I've run integy aluminum, stock, mip and now rad rc 4 shoe... all of which suck. The longest lasting and best biting were the MIP shoes. The stock one just slip, the RadRC slip and the integy's mushroom out so bad that it's pointless to use them.

Anyone found something other than a 1/8th setup that can hold up to a 21... at least for a while?
 
ugh... I'm in the same boat! :shrug:

I'm going to try some CNR aluminum shoes with a heavy spring. Hopefully I'll get some good results.
 
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Some how I had a 32P CB that fit a 1/8 4 shoe clutch and it works great with my Fantom .27. The only problem is when that CB goes bad I don't know where to get a replacment? Somone said it may have been a Traxxas Nitro Hawk CB but, I don't know for sure yet?
 
I know RC-Solutions makes a spur for it that is a 1/8 spur... I just didn't want to have to spend the $25 on the spur and another $30 on a 1/8 setup. I have a RRP steel spur that I won't be able to use that I already spent $23 on plus about 5 stock plastic spurs laying around.... I was hoping that the RadRC 4 shoe would work, but it didn't.

Any one want to buy a RadRC Flywheel, clutch and spare set of shoes with spring?

There went $50 down the drain.
 
have you tried the Werks power clutch or the Fioroni Turbo sliding clutch both using carbon shoes?
 
Nope and Nope... Isn't the werks clutch one of those wierd clutches? Centax style I think?

I may just give up and shove a 1/8 setup on it. Then I don't have to care anymore. It just pisses me off I think, that companies claim this and that and none of it holds water.
 
I did a little experimenting today. I tried to put my mugen mbx5 3 shoe clutch on my T-maxx and I would not fit. It was small enough to clear the chassis but the flywheel would sit too far back on the crank so that it was rubbing on the neck of the carb. I found out that T-maxx flywheels stick out about 1/16" further than a 1/8 clutch, which is why they will not rub.

BTW: This is on a WASP .21 mid-block so this might not apply to you. The WASP uses a small-block crank shaft.
 
I'm running an OS 21 RG (Big Block) on an XTM 21 converted maxx. Also, I'm not afraid of a dremel... if it doesn't fit, it will.

I asked my friend for the RC-Solutions spur gear that I gave him. Since he isn't using it and he didn't pay for it, I got it back. I think I'm just going to buy what I bought for my savage and let it be. I'm tired of stupid things ending a day of bashing. On a 21 maxx, the clutch is a very stupid thing...
 
At one point in time I was burning up clutches at a rate of a clutch in 3/4 tank of fuel. After this happened one too many times I opted to use a 2 aluminum shoe setup. To help the shoes grab better I took a dremel and roughed up the inside of the clutch bell so that it would grab faster and more firmly. I never burned out that setup in the 9 months I was running it until I sold my t-maxx. On the sale the buyer didn't want the engine and I kept it and inspected the clutch setup a month or so ago. The clutch looked used definately but nearly new and very little over wear signs.
 
Who made the shoes? The integy ones melt... a lot.

I installed the RC-Solutions spur with the same flywheel and clutch set up I'm using on my savage. It's HPI's 3 shoe. Although, I'm using a HD 16 tooth cb that I had bought for the savage when I got the savage from SkyMaxx. It was to tall with the engine on the savage, so now I'm using a 14. I have to think the RC-Solutions spur is going to chew through that 16t cb pretty quick. I'll find out this weekend.
 
Man, I can't belive your OS 21 is ripping up clutches so bad. I have used (and blown up) two of those engines. They are pretty good, but I didn't think they were THAT powerful. I ran a Picco .26 on a race Maxx for a good while and just used the stock clutch, with a heavier spring. It lasted fine and the clutch is still in good shape.

I normally take the engine out after each hard run and take off the clutch bell to clean and check things. Are you sure you don't have a little grease/oil on the clutch bell? Are you cleaning it with brake cleaner? Have you tried running with a heavier spring?

One other thing you might try is; get some bearings that have no rubber seal, then use brake cleaner to degrease the inner one completely. That way, no grease will get slung out onto the surface of the bell/shoes. Of course, the bearing won't last long running dry like that, but I have seen other people do it that way.
 
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I don't think the engine is powerful either, I just think I expect more from it, especially now that I have a savage.

You would be surprised at the performance gain when you drop in the RC-Solutions spur and a 1/8 clutch. Now it's responding how I expect it to.

From my previous post of using the 16T HPI cb, it only lasted 1 tank then it looked like I took a lathe to it. I followed the recommedations of ScottM and bought an OFNA cb. I ran a tank through it the other day before it got dark, much better with no wear. I also was only able to drop down 1 tooth to a 15T. But it pulls standing wheelies on pavement now. I don't care what others say, wheelies are cool. Since I don't race, only bash, I like seeing the front in the air.

Actually, I'd like to drop 1 more tooth, but I'll see how it holds up. I doubt the shoes are well broken in yet, as I only ran the one tank.
 

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