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What Breaks?

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M

Mido

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Hey all,
I'm getting the 3.3 Tmaxx and i was wondering in this car what is the thing that usually breaks the most. Like i want to buy this car and not like have to ALWAYS REPAIR... I'm nto doing any crazy jumps or anything but just drive around neighbour hood... Also when breaking in engine is it just like wats in the manual? Any tips or w.e.... Also i definetly dont get how to Tune engine plz some explain lol I'm a total idiot!
Thanks All i appreciate it
 
traxxas break in specs usually do pretty good there is a heat cycle method over the course of i beleiev 12 tanks but i can't remember it I'm sure rolex or someone will chime in and hook you up wit it
 
The first thing to go for me was the steering servo, that is common on all my rc purchases though. Then it was the motor mount because it was always on its lid. A New Era 3 point roll bar cured that for me, but only after 3 stock mounts and about 5 traxxas billet mounts. I wish I would have bought the cage first, I would have saved a lot of money!!!
 
A wing is also a lighter substitute for a cage. It will protect the cooling head.

The first things to go for me were the front a arms and bulkheads. First time you clip a curb at 30+ mph you will see.
 
Yeah, new era 3 point is a must have. That was one of my best maxx purchases. Also, getting a pro-line servo saver vs the stock steering made it much more durable and allowed more of the servos power to get to the tires.

RPM arms, RPM axle carriers, RPM shock towers.

Aluminum bulks will be next on the list... I went through more stupid bulks than I could count. Just don't go cheap and buy integy when you do. Spend a little more for a better set.
 
i have t-maxx 2.5r and if your gonna run it near tall curbs, lamposts and other hard thingz like that you are likely to break alot of suspension arms top and bottom! i would straight away replace with aluminum ones! those are all I've ever broke in 1 1/2 years
 
DO NOT replace the arms with aluminum....they may take more abuse than the stock ones but in a really bad crash you will be replacing more than just the A-Arms.....aluminum should only be used for the center line of your rig...any "appendages" should be plastic so they can break away and not tear other parts with them....
 
Plaidfish is right, I keep the shocktowers bumpers and arm all factory or RPM. Aluminum bends and is much more expensive to replace. Besides RPM lifetime warranties all their products. So if you break it they will replace it!!
 
flower what the book say bout brakeing and tuneing read the hole book befor you start my 10yr old brother under stod it so i think anyone can figure it out. as for stuff brakeing a-arm was the first thing i broke on my 3.3
 
bob24 said:
rpm arms and carriers are a must
Click to expand...

Are you talking about the knuckles or bulkheads. I have yet to upgrade the knuckles, I have beaten the crap out of it for over a year and have just about every other upgrade you can imagine. But the knuckles have held up fine. Also the only bulkhead I have had to replace is the front. The rear has held up great.
But now that I say this, both will break next time I go out!!
 
rpm doesn't make bulkheads(in a perfect world they would) no the knuckles break on the 2.5s the 3.3 knuckles are built like steel
 
bob24 said:
rpm doesn't make bulkheads(in a perfect world they would) no the knuckles break on the 2.5s the 3.3 knuckles are built like steel
Click to expand...

Got ya!! I havent had any experience with the 2.5's. Aluminum bulk would still be better even if RPM did make bulks. We need the strength if you bashing hard
 
aluminum bulks equal twice the price and if they were rpm its lifetime replacement
 
RPM axle carriers (steering knuckles) use bigger bearings than stock which will be more durable should you want to upgrade to 1/2" offset wheels to widen your stance.
 
I broke a stock turnbuckle (rear) on my first day out, slow speed bump and snap. I upgraded to the Traxxas 7075 turnbuckles and had no problems since.

I've broken a few front skid plates just in front of where they connect to the bottom supports. It mostly happens from bottoming the front skid in a ditch or something.

I was having serious problems keeping the stock wheel nuts tight. I switched to HPI wheel nuts with some blue loctite and have no further problems. The HPI nuts have a large serrated flange which grips the wheel very well plus they seem to have a tighter nylock insert.

Contrary to most, I've only broken 1 A-arm and 1 front bulkhead on seperate occasions, and am still running the stock stuff. Learning to drive better (not running into stuff) really helps this area of damage.

I just upgraded to the FLM aluminum diff cups after shearing off the stock 2mm screws in the rear diff.

Oh ya, I also broke the stock fuel tank. The design of the mounting posts isn't very good with very little support bracing. I haven't broken it since.

All the other upgrades I've done have been my choice for the most part.
 
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